photog

I've looked and can't find a reference in the rule book. Can I design a stage at a Level I USPSA handgun match that requires the use of a rifle/carbine to engage targets? Or would it be better to "allow" the use of the rifle for the distant targets? It would be a single rifle that ALL competitors would have to use. I envision giving each a mag with 10 rounds of factory ammo. Example: Starting in Box A, retrieve the M1 Carbine on the table, load it and engage the 2 steel plates located 50yds downrange. Dump the unloaded rifle in the safety container, and engage the remaining targets as the become available. OR make the Carbine optional, and allow the handgun use on the plates at 50yds at the shooters discretion. I'm really looking for a rule based opinion, is this OK? Does it violate a USPSA rule?

Oh, and we are getting water tanks and pit toilets soon, which means that camping AT THE RANGE will be soon to follow. As it stands now, camping just outside the gate is perfectly fine.

The next Flagstaff Match is this Sunday. AT this match we will have the USPSA club roster, so if you are interested in getting out of the heat of the valley, come on up and sign our roster to help us become a "real" USPSA club. While I don't have specifics on the match yet, there will be at least 4 stages, with plenty of variety and steels, along with some moving targets. Ours are NOT paper matches like many small clubs. First timers are welcome. The range is still very primitive, so bring food and water. www.northernarizonashootingrange.org Any questions? Email me at nasrange2013-info@yahoo.com

Thanks for the kind words. We learned lots from the first match.

Call Henning. Its match season. Most small businesses do not run via email, they work through the phone.

True. Go to a match in Piru or Phoenix and you get to shoot with them, too! Henning does some great stuff, He has always helped me out with my Tanfo.

For all those following this: We are scheduled for the Second Sunday of each month at the Northern Arizona Shooting Range. I'm going to get input via survey on the first match on club name, practice nights, etc. Our first match is going to be 2 long courses, 1 or 2 short stand and shoots and one classifier. We are NOT affiliated yet, I need the SC to sign off and I wanted to wait till I got input on the club name. I project that the match in May will be officially sanctioned by USPSA. We only get one large bay at the range, so squads will need to stay together and help with setup and moving stages. If you have questions, please email me at nasrange2013-info@yahoo.com. The first match, April 14th, will hopefully show us where we need to improve so that our matches will be up to USPSA standards and expectations.

Just got on the schedule at the new range. Took a bit a work, and the offical club is NOT set up yet, but...... matches on second Sunday every month April to October. Price TBD Practice every Weds 4-6pm on the 50 yd range at Northern Arizona Shooting Range. All that it took was me deciding it needed to happen Actually took a lot more work than that, but it will happen, and we WILL follow the USPSA rulebook so you will know what to expect.

yep, a bullseye 40 on gunbroker at 1300 bucks.

1mm is quite a bit. If it was that much I would be surprised. EAA is fine if you call them. Call them before you start "fixing" it on your own.

I found that grease attracted and held more gunk than a wax lube like T-9. I actually had a ball of goop that I could feel on the reset and needed to be cleaned.

Yep got the part in and it needed to be reshaped under the plunger. also had to cut two coils off the plunger spring or the ting would NOT reset with a henning trigger. I think the issue is that with the large frame the plunger hits the ramp at the wrong place. Also the ramp was really really poorly machined. took a few hours of dremel/sand/polish and finally a lap with polish compound, but its working now. Gotta say that now with this setup it's a SWEET trigger: Henning trigger/sear/hammer new trigger bar, stoned sides, polished ramp mirror polished plunger with 2 coils cut off spring xl fire pin pin safety removed other stuff done: stoned slide rails flat stoned safety levers blended magwell smoothed mag feed surfaces Since I don't really want a super light trigger, I left he stock hammer spring, have about a 3lb trigger, but its so crisp that it feels much lighter. very little movement (like 3mm at the TIP of the trigger). Granted I spend a ton of time stoning and polishing, but the end result is pretty impressive.

I'm prepared to do the polishing, and figured that it would need. THanks for the responses.

Emailed EAA Corp and got no response, so gave them a call. Talked to sales, they are sending a new trigger bar out ($25 shipped). Is there going to be much fitting required? Anybody know?

Tried them out and the function just fine. Sorry if you think ruger 10 rounders are somehow wasted now that they have another notch cut in them. I can guarantee they still work in the P89. But alas, the P89 is going to get sold as it feels as good as a furring strip in my hand. I've looked around for m&p followers and they are out of stock everywhere, but I could definitely get them to work (once found).

So, I been having lots o problems with the Limited. After replacing the trigger with a Hennings medium, the gun would fire, but not always reset the trigger. If I pulled the hammer back a little ways, the trigger would reset, effectivly making it a TRUE single action. Took the whole thing apart. Polished everything I could find. Adjusted the pre and overtravel for days, and nothing helped. Finally figured that a new sear and hammer from Henning would fix it. Got those in (trimming the sear is not too bad) in a day or so. Took it out to the forest for test fire and *&%(*^(&^ it still hung up. Dissassembled AGAIN and finally noticed a crack in the trigger bar right where the sear engages. The crack allows the bar halves to move independantly and holds the trigger against the hammer because is do not disengage. Hopefully I can get another trigger bar, as welding and filing would be a pain!

I'm with Nealio. My Strong thumb is on top of the safety. Eric G rides his weak index finger on the trigger guard, I run mine below the trigger guard. (He wins more than I do) I run the stock grips, my medium size hands like them.

I just cut the right slots in the front of the mag for the mag release to fit. Dry testing 3 old 10 round P89 mags and they cycle in the M&P just fine. The P89 mags are a bit smaller but they lock up just fine. The follower does not engage the slide lock. I have yet to test fire them, but I'm pretty sure they will function just fine. This was a super easy job with a Dremel and a cutting wheel and small grinding wheel. Just thowinging it out there into inter-web land as a bit of info.

There are reduced 308 CAST loads in the Lee book. I have succesfully run Varget at 32gr under a 168gr cast boolit in my 30-06. i got 1650fps and 6" groups at 200yds. Titegroup will also make reduced loads. There are published loads for TG in 308, along with Trail boss. Seat a 110gr M1 carbine bullet and launch it with Varget at around 1500fps. Varget is not prone to the (unproven) detonation that people hear so much about.

All good questions, so no need to feel stupid. Keep that healthy respect for rifle rounds! That ring can be left on brass near the base by the resizing die. My Lee die leaves a polished looking ring. My opinion is your operating in safe territory, the brass looks ok, your pressures are below max, all looks good. Also your bolt gun will be way more tolerant of an overpressure load than some autoloader. Many bolt guns have pressure vents on the side of the receiver for just such a thing.

This is weird. Did Buds actually ship the gun? Why would they want to charge you a retock if they didn't ship it?

the capacity has mostly to do with: 1. reloaded vs new ammo 2. how loose the spring is try out the mags with factory fresh ammo, you should get 20 or 21 depending on if the spring is "set". Try reloads that are not full length sized (not pushed through a die or Case-Pro'ed) and you will likely only get 18-19. Henning used to have a video on how to load the mags, showing the tap technique.

very true for someone who knows they will be modifying a pistol. For the lowest cost to get into Limited Division, the Limited will still do the trick with no modifications.

I don't think the Limited is a 50,000 round gun to begin with. It's a nice race gun that cost less than comparable pistols. Making it less expensive the manf made it out of softer steels. the locking lugs wear, the hammer/sear/trigger all wear out too. I've noticed my gun has accelerated wear after the 10k round mark. I just put a Henning trigger to help out, next will be the sear/hammer to correct the sloppyness. I don't know how long the lugs will last, maybe another 20-30k. I would say that the higher your PF the quicker it will wear out, as the speed of the slide unlocking and the heat buildup will be greater.

the force of the fpb must be overcome by the sear. the sear is moved by the trigger. reduce the FPB spring and reduce trigger pull.