Tcon260

It seems to me that unless a person is one of the few really fast caddie loaders, twins or quads is almost mandatory. More significant in my opinion, is that just about anyone can learn to load twins fast enough to be competitive...not necessarily the case with caddies.

Hmmm....it's also saying you will be 3.2" right with zero wind speed?

I can assure you its not CA

Taren did my 35...gotta say his stipple jobs are the best

+ 1 on Nimitz version

Carbon Arms ( what I use), AP Custom, Taccom. All pretty close to the same price. If you have a Safariland ELS belt, attach with the ELS components. Otherwise, attach using Tek-Lock.

Twin or Quad loading is the way to go. Go to a few matches and see which system you like. Buy it and don't look back

So it looks like pants size or one bigger

J-Rob, Thanks for the info....pretty pricey, but sure it is worth it

Nickoli, Loading rifle is defiantly more technical than pistol. Well at least you need to take more measurements when setting up the dies. Do yourself a favor and purchase a bullet comparator (optional if loading for magazine length) and a head space gage like linked below (not optional). Make sure your headspace is set correctly for your chamber (.002-.003 less than fire formed brass) and make sure your brass is trimmed to the correct length. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704/hornady-lock-n-load-headspace-gage-5-bushing-set-with-comparator http://www.midwayusa.com/product/348740/hornady-lock-n-load-bullet-comparator-complete-set-with-14-inserts Ted

...have a shotgun match this weekend and don't have the guts to change around anything without a testing period...well maybe more experience tells me its not a good idea.

I received a replacement feed latch and am going to do Mod B next weekend.....

Very nice work

Never could do the load four at a time from caddies. Fingers too short and not enough dexterity. Got the Carbon Arms set up for load 2. Within an hour of practicing, I could do 8 in 8 sec reliably, 8 in 6 sec about half of the time.

J-Rob, How much did this upper cost you? I need to get me a new JP upper..just curious of the rough cost.

I like to get most of my brass back. At the last match I attended, I had two new shooters with me that I loaded for. Would rather not leave 600 pieces of brass on the range in one day.

six is the magic number starting with a full tube of brass from feeder and none in the shell plate

Pat, That was a good tip on weighing 10 drops easily. Thanks

Here is another pic of the Option B mod shared with me. Notice there is much less contact between the tip of the feed latch and the shell rim than with the unmodified shell latch.

Page 8 of the manual says the factory can switch it to lefty...probably means that you can do it your self as well

MarkCO and JPeel, Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. With popularity of the Versa Max, this is going to be a useful thread. I have a new Feed Latch Assembly on the way...just in case I go too far. I'll update the thread with my results. Stay tuned.

Everyone thank you for your contributions to this thread. We are close to the completing the the Versa Max Feed Latch Modification discussion. As I understand it, there are two mod’s being done to make it easier to get the shells past the feed latch. I will attempt to summarize my understanding. Please feel free to correct or add to my summary: Mod A: Increase the depth of the notch approximately 1/64” (sure seems like it would take more than this). Since the tip of the feed latch (at the curved end) has to flex out of the way towards the receiver to allow the shell rim to pass by, this mod reduces the force necessary as the feed latch flexes about the centerline of the notches (i.e. less cross sectional area at the flex line). Mod B: Relieve material from the tip of the feed latch on the loading port side of centerline along a radius. Since the tip of the feed latch has to essentially rest against the inside of the receiver to allow the shell rim to pass by, this mod removes material so that the shell can pass before the feed latch tip has flexed as far as it would have to if the material had not been removed, which make the force required to push the shell into the tube less. That is, shells slip right on in. Those of you that have done this, approximately how much material is removed…just to give those trying this an idea of how slow to go.

JPeel, Sent you a PM with my email address. CmbtEngr, Thanks for the guidance on how far to extend the notches. Comparing how easily it looks like shells are to load in your video to mine (all the fumbling I do aside), I need to do a bit of work on my feed latch. Maybe some combination of JPeel and CmbtEngr's mods and the shells will jump from my carriers right in to the tube!

JPeel, Thanks for the pics. Here is mine. Can you describe the difference between your latch and mine?

JPeel, Can you post a pic showing the latch?