tk4

They just need to add another class - GM. A master class shooter in ssp that shoots a 98 would probably equate to a high B low A shooter in IPSC. Now this poor shooter is in the same class as Sevigny.

I didn't vote because I am at 84.8% in limited, but I am master in limited 10. I am experimenting with solo 1000, and I am surprised it did not get any votes. Compared to titegroup it seems to have comparable accuracy and burn rate. It seems to smoke a little less with moly bullets, and is supposed to be less temp sensitive. I got 8lbs for a little under $100. I wonder if there is a reason others are not using it that I have not discovered yet.

Would one of the tungsten reverse plugs effectively add weight back into the slide for those who find out they prefer the heavier slide? Have you tried this yet?

Wow, that's light. Thank you for the info. I will probably stay conservative at first at around 12, and compare it to my edge, and then decide if I should go lighter. I can always take out a little more, but can't put any back in.

Thank you. That is with sights on, but extractor, firing pin and stop removed. Right?

It is a bull barrel. Just hoping to get opinions from knowledgable smiths like yourself. Thanks.

I am planning on lightening the slide on my limited 40 2011 with classic slide. Looking for opinions on how much weight, if any, should be taken out?

Does anyone know if the MO Fall Classic/State Championship counted as a qualifying match? If it did does it matter that I don't live in MO?

.09 or .10 Never tried anything thinner, but I don't like the wider ones at all.

I'm considering lightening the slide on my edge also. How much weight should be taken out?

Don't have a Caspian, but my long wide STI frame is 3 ounces heavier than my standard STI frame.

I had a 2011 built a few months ago and was debating the finish. I found a guy locally who parkerized it for $75. I hate the idea of shipping my new gun off. It looks good to me. I like the black. I know it won't wear like chrome, but I don't care if it looks like it's seen some hard use. I had my edge chromed last winter, and the frame cracked (make sure you send it to Tripp, I didn't). STI took care of my mistake, fixed my gun, and sent it to Tripp to be rechromed. It looks great, but now I wish I could lighten the slide a little now. Chrome is a little to permanent for me, to difficult to make mods later.

I was debating painting it black. What kind of paint should I use?

I guess this isn't really a gunsmithing question, but I need some advice on getting paint off a 2011 grip. I just bought a used 2011 with a grip that is painted baby blue and white. It is a little too girly for me. I have another one that came with a painted grip and the paint came off while cleaning the gun with break cleaner without really trying. With this one I tried break cleaner and acetone. It has come off a little, but not much. Any suggestions.

I just wish the match coordinators would publish ahead of time how they were going to reward prizes. I hate when they refuse to tell you until after the match. To me it is a huge let down to drive 5hrs to show up at a match and then have them hand you some trinkit you don't need before you even start shooting. Then it doesn't even matter how you perform. I would think the vast majority of us go to a major match to compete. If I wanted to play a game of chance(not skill) I would go to the gambling boat or buy a lottery ticket.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...ost&id=6758 Thanks, but it doesn't seem to be working, or maybe I'm doing something wrong.

I saw a link to load data for solo 1000 on the site, but can't find it now. Does anyone know what the link is? Thanks.

Have been using titegroup for 40 major. Looking for something less sensitive to temp. For you guys using solo 1000, how temp sensitive is it? Is it faster/higher pressure than titegroup at major pf? Should I just pay the $s and go with n320?

Just got a 2011 from one of the auction sites. I was told the finish is probably KG thermo set. It is a stainless looking finish. Does anyone know anything about it? Is it a decent finish?

Good chance it is the extractor, but it could also be your thumb dragging on the rear serrations. This will definetly cause the slide to feel slow. The stock sti safety is not wide enough for me and caused this problem. I had a swenson safety with the thumb shield installed and never had the problem again. It tends to happen more often on stages that are up close and you are really squeezing down on the gun to drive it for fast splits. It might also help to file down the corners of the serrations to round them off a little.

I'm curious also. I won A limited at area 3, and 1st master only beat me by 2.5%. I actually live in area 5, does that matter?

Do they have the same sizing issues with the 9mm bullets?

I have one that I got on the internet for $150. It helps with my lower back issues, helps straighten out and stretch the vertebrae. It doesn't replace the chiropractor, but makes my visits to him less frequent. I don't seem to use it near as much as when I got it about a year ago. I guess that means it has helped. Although that may be because I have missed a fair share of work this year(broken foot, broken hand, and had a baby). I am glad I bought it. I will warn you, becareful when you first get it. Don't stay on it too long, and don't flip back up too fast. Especially if your back is really torqued. I had a bad experience when I first got it, but I believe it was my fault. Do a search on inversion tables on the net.

Can't shoot lead anymore. My lead count was over 40 last year when I was shooting lead. I can't stand the thought of shooting less either. Maybe I'll try a slower powder. I have some hs6.

Maybe, I'll try them longer. I am shooting precision 125s. The shoulder on them looks really long at 1.125. I am shooting a sti tactical. I'll test to see how long I can load.