Gandof

The handle is a minor inconvience, the spent primer catcher is a PITA!

30lbs of powder in one year for pistol calibers... That's only 50k or so rounds. And I thought the 12-15k was a lot!

You grease your TRS? Never thought of that! Lower the heat generated from coil rubbing togerther to prolong spring life?

GeneBrayGood staticial information! Thanks to all who contributed. Any and all suggestions appreciated!

I always carry a backup for my primary when I shoot Glocks or single stacks. I'm thinking that might be my best option with the CZ as well. Field repairs with the Glocks and 1911s are simple and fast with minimal tools. I'm thinking this might not be the case with the CZs. Until then a Gock 34/35 will have to serve as backup. Another 85 or Shadow is definately on my short list.

Thanks for the replies, guys! I always carry at minimum the parts most likely to break along with whatever tools I might need for the platform I'm shooting. I've used it a few times helping other shooters as well as field repairs on my own guns. Hadn't heard about the Trigger Return Spring breakage. I need to familarize myself with that part and what it takes to replace it. Thanks for the tip. Can't swing it at the moment, but at some point I'll pick up another CZ, likely a Shadow, to run as primary, and keep the 85 for backup. I'll likely be shooting the CZ platform for the foreseable future. Thanks again!

This! Plus, LOOK in every case before placing the bullet in the case mouth. I use Clays because I have a lot of it, but 3.6 gns fills the case about 2/3 full. Hard to miss a double charge.

RLN pouches and holster for production and SSP. I'll leave the Ghosts and Racers for you open and limited guys.

Getting back to the CZ for production USPSA and SSP IDPA. I'm shooting my 85 Combat. I've never had it happen, but I understand the slide stops are prone to breakage. Obviously I need to include a slide stop in my range bag parts kit, but what else needs to be there? I'm thinking a hammer spring, recoil springs, and possibly a firing pin and spring. What am I missing? I appreciate your input.

I think 12 is the right answer. I load 100cases into the case feeder and 100 primers into the feed tube. Using a .40 ammo tray, I dump brass into from my brass bucket into the tray for a quick and easy count. It also insures that I can visually sort out the occasional .380 or Super case that gets mixed in with my 9mm brass.

Though I had some missed primers too. Turns out I had some 9mm brass with expanded primer pockets and primers would fall out in the catch bin on my 650. The primer feel is so good on the Dillons that I can feel the difference when I come across one of those cases. I have sorted some of those out. I could easily seat a primer with my fingers. It could be that this is what's happening to you. Maybe a case problem rather than a press problem?

In a single stage press I think you'll be happier with dies from another manufacturer due to the lack of a flaring die and ease of adjustment. I personally like the Lee dies as they are fast and easy to adjust when changing loads and OAL. I use Lee dies in my 650, a U die in station one and a FCD in station 5 in both .40 and 9mm. I have tried the Dillon dies, but they currently reside in my storage cabinet, with the exception of the powder dies of course. Redding, Lyman, and RCBS dies all work for me as well.

For clairification: What is a Boolit? The term "boolit" may be seen on some forums on the internet these days. Well, what is it, the reader wonders? Well, wonder no more. The word "boolit" is a made-up word and is not part of the English language. It is a deliberate misspelling of the word "bullet". The origin of this term seems to have come from a forum called castboolits.gunloads.com and spread from there on to many other shooting forums (mostly those with a lot of American members). As per the forum, a boolit is a projectile that is hand cast by a person for use by an individual, whereas a bullet is a machine-made projectile made by a commercial company for mass consumption. Another common difference per the forum members is that a "boolit" is cast from a mold, whereas a "bullet" is a jacketed projectile. In the good old days, many fire arms came with their own bullet molds. re: http://firearmshistory.blogspot.com/2012/11/what-is-boolit.html

First of all, if your stock Glock barrels shoot better, why would you buy 3 LW barrels? Second, if you are an advocate to fixing a problem, then you would have stop buying "the problem"and get KKM instead. Third, at 45 years of casting you should know there is always something new to learn. I'm very open minded at learning something new. Visit http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forum.php the people are great there. They love to share. First of all, if your stock Glock barrels shoot better, why would you buy 3 LW barrels? (No way to know that without owning the barrels) Have to confess that these barrels I have are not the first LW barrels I have owned. I have worked around the throating problem for years. Wasn't much of a problem when I was only loading for Glock .40s. All ran fine at a 1.10 OAL. Loading major PF, it's nice to have the extra case capacity a longer cartridge allows. I'm also a little on the cheap side, thus the appeal of the LW barrels. Not a lot of return for the money on investing beyond a certain point in Glocks. The guns I'm running now like a 1.14 OAL, and will not chamber in my LW .40 Glock barrel. It's good logistics to have ammo that will run in any common caliber gun I own. If I owned only one pistol in .40, I'd load specifically for that chamber and be done. Owning a few more than that, I'm not loading chamber specific ammo for multiple pistols. It just makes sense to throat the barrels as they should have been done initially. I don't have a problem with any of the many other Glock parts I've bought from LW and would still recommend their products to others---------with an admonishment on the barrel chambers, of course. And--------they're still cast Bullets!

I've been loading cast bullets for close to 45 years, just recently heard them referred to as "Boolits". I'm thinking that must be trendy these days. Too late for me, they'll be "Bullets" as long as I'm around. I'm an advocate of fixing the problem at it's origin. Not adapting to deal with it. I have a .40 and a 9mm conversion barrel for my Glock 35, along with a 9mm barrel for my 1, all three from LW. All are going to make the trip back to Lone Wolf for the "Glock Hole" modification. Just haven't gotten back to shooting the Glocks much these days as my primary interest these days is CZ. Don't know why LW doesn't understand that Glock shooters buy their barrels to shoot cast bullets-------------. My stock Glock barrels shoot lead better than the LW barrels as is. Perhaps when my LW barrels come home that will change.

No way I'd carry a $3k pistol as a primary CCW! My carry guns are subject to taking a few knocks and weather exposure, not to mention the abuse one might take in an evidence locker. I compete with 1911s and Glocks and carry a PF9 or Glock 19/36. When running a single action after shooting Glocks for a few months, I have to retrain myself on the safety when going back to 1911s,

Order new screws from Dillon and clean the threads up with a bottom tap.

I size, then trim, and I do it every loading. Often the cases haven't grown enough to touch the trimmer blade, but I want ammo that works anytime in any gun.

Like most others I know, I load it till it fails or is lost.

Just saw this thread. I use BBIs in my aftermarket Glock barrels. Both have a rather abrupt and short leade. I have noticed that the Moly coating accumulates at that point. A through cleaning with MEK and a brass brush keeps it in check if used frequently. Need to have my barrels reamed to increase the leade, as well as reduce the angle. The angle may be causing me some accuracy problems with these bullets as well.

Yeah, I've seen .40 fired in 10mm barrels as well, without adverse effect. If you look at case length tolerances and chamber dimension tolerances, you'll wonder how often a case actually headspaces on the case mouth. I don't shoot .40 in my 10mm barrel, but some have been known to do so without ill effect. Gandof

Currently shooting 125s due to having a ton of them. Actually prefer the 147s. Gandof

Forty is no different from any other high pressure , low capacity pistol case. It operates in about the same pressure range as the 9mm. The same care should be taken when reloading any cartridge. Stick with reliable, published data, use the correct compotents for the job, watch your OAL and you should be fine. For range ammo, I load to major or minor PF using suitable compotents for each. There is nothing to be gained by pushing them faster. If you're not shooting a dicipline that requires major PF, then a good accurate midrange load will serve you well. Gandof

Loading on a 550 you should be able to feel a primer seat. If they go in too easy, the primer pocket is likely a bit loose. I've seen pitting on the breech face from blown primers, but haven't seen any pitting caused by loose ones. Gandof

Had the same problem shooing my HP the other day. I attributed it to the 1-16 twist. These same bullets shoot well in my other 9mms with a 1-9 1-10 twist. Gandof