MemphisMechanic

They're Distinguished Masters. DM. The disparity between sports is nothing new. I went from highly competitive for the overall win in SSP at State matches... to C class. We're talking strictly USPSA/IPSC here. The sport with the good shooters.

You keep saying this, and I'm sure they're out there. However, I know plenty of Bs who shoot M class times on field courses, yet not a single guy with an M class standing draw and load who shoots B-class field courses. By the time guys have gotten an M/GM card, their movement and stage plans aren't exactly weak spots.

I actually haven't met one yet. I always see lots of comments about it online, but weaving through a field course has proven a lot easier to learn than crushing stand & shoot scenarios, cold, on demand. I know a lot of guys who are often in contention for a match win, yet can't classify their way out of B-class to save their lives. I'm one of them.

Nonfactor. I'm after GM. Being the best of some skill level in the middle of the pack is intensely unappealing to me. I've never understood wanting to hang back in classification so that, what, I can win a gun somewhere possibly? Self-improvement is a bit of a fetish for me. Having to write a "B" next to my name on scoresheet makes me cringe, and I'm gonna be ashamed of my classification until it has an M in it.

Is it going to be PRODB now?

Devil's Advocate time... Because he's new? Do you know a lot of GMs with unreliable guns? I don't. It's the C's and Bs who are tinkering away with borderline-reliable things. The Glocks "tuned" for Limited division are a perfect example

I'd be well into A class if I hadn't switched. I have only dryfired with it perhaps 4 times total, and so it still feels like I'm trying to run a foot race wearing someone else's shoes. It doesn't fit, yet. The hits are great. I shot 16A 2C on the classifier in that video. Accuracy isn't my issue. Gunhandling is simply very sub-par. Seeing how close I am to A class is motivating though! 0.2 off of each draw and 0.5 off of the horrible mag change would have put me at 80% ... and I'd be an A right now. Shoulda, woulda, coulda, right? Seeing this makes me want to learn to draw and load this gun as agessively as I could the M&P.

Talk about motivation to dryfire... I don't think I've actually seen someone this close to A-class without going in. Gotta get those two-second mag changes down and the first shot on the draw sped up. (I shot a 73% this weekend that will bump off a 75% score, though. Forgetting to put your hearing protection on is a bit distracting.)

Well since I've never even heard of Maxam brand powders, and neither have most of us here, I don't think you'll get a lot of help on that. In a strictly theoretical manner, it'd be interesting to see what a shift to a different primer and/or powder would do to the way your casings look.

127.2 isn't 'making power factor' Well, technically it is, but it's also "someday you're shooting a Major for no score" ammo. Which you obviously seem to know. Ask any seasoned production shooter what their load is, and everyone is going to reply with 130 PF or higher. I like mine around 133-135. Particularly with heavy bullets a pinch more velocity is often more accurate, and it cycles the gun a bit more briskly. After all, the guy with the 125.02 PF ammo isn't usually the champion... ... but the champ is *always* a guy whose gun ran 100% perfectly. You won't notice a difference in split times between 127 and 132 PF ammo, anyway.

Why do you think a well polished roll pin isn't good enough? Or are you planning to take the gun apart a ton of times, and looking for easier disassembly?

A nearby guy found some solid rubber tires around 50% taller than the originals on his, and affixed a larger axle that fit their inner diameter to it. He's pretty happy with it now - their range features a lot of really rough ground and the originals didn't really cut it.

Do you have any non-Federal primers? I'm curious, because CCI or Winchester might look completely normal.

The very top left casing in that photo would be what I'd consider to be normal.

Do you have any blatant ones? I'll take one.

I think it's a stretch too. But it's beyond simple to check, and free.

Dryfire it 100 times or more for starters. Then tear it all the way down and look at how things move: Figure out how the gun works. Then polish every hole in an internal part and every pin and spring that rides in those holes, along with all the surfaces on trigger bar, disconnector, and hammer where metal rubs on metal. In many cases you can lose 2 pounds of trigger weight just from this, but the primary benefit is that the trigger movement will be smooth as glass.

Reloads are the primary killer, though. Not one of those was remotely quick enough. Draw isn't bad, but I need to get on beginning my DA pull earlier and harder. Aaaaand shoot the gun enough to learn the SA trigger at speed (impossible in dryfire) well enough that I stop throwing C's because my timing is off.

@IronArcher it will hurt the bottom-of-pack MAs on down to the EXs (and the rare SS) who were placing well by being really fast and hemmoraging points. The rift between the slow & accurate guys like Jim and the really good EX and MA shooters at the top, however, has now been made wider than ever.

Well, she runs perfectly, as mentioned. Here's proof:

Skip the 10 and go all the way back to stock, man! If issues go away, THEN fiddle around with lightweight aftermarket stuff.

Tracks with my info nicely - it stacks to 7lbs at the back of the DA pull, but hits fussy CCI primers like a mother.

Oh also what recoil spring is in this gun? Just curious if dropping the factory one in would eliminate the teardrop shape firing pin impression by giving it a few more bajillionths of a second in battery. Can't see how that would affect the flattened look though.

Snow fencing doesn't hold up very long when people get stingy with the zipties and don't use one every six inches or so, in my experience. When they're 2.5-3 feet apart the ties break easily or the window in the snow fence tears

The greatest determination of this is your degree of eye dominance. People with a strongly dominant eye have an easy time shooting with both eyes open. Place sights in front of dominant eye and shoot. For people like myself, whose eyes are very close to 50/50, we have a stronger 'ghost' image and it's tougher. I smear a very light film of chap stick over the "through the sights" portion of my glasses on the weak side, and it keeps things crystal clear. Closing one eye robs you of peripheral vision, and always causes the remaining eye to squint a little bit. It also makes it harder not to blink when the gun fires, which is one of the earliest steps in learning to call your shots.