atlscrog

Good points... the idea to put my thumb on the retention screw is perfect... thank you. Thanks all.

For you lefties out there, where is your right thumb? I am in the habit of resting it on the cylinder shroud; kind of like using a '*thumb rest [generic]*' on some of those C-More mounts. Any other lefties tried this?

Congrats Devon and all!

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Hmm... OK then... looks like I need to re-focus on loading setup. Thanks for the feedback.

What was the high / low PF for the match? I know my ammo chrono'd much higher. I don't know whether it was due to temp, elevation or just an inexpensive chrono used for my own testing. I tested my ammo at home at about 1000' elevation, around 85F... it was almost 100 FPS faster in Vegas.

Had the opportunity to have dinner with Bob... he's a great guy and I use his products and will continue to do so.

Good points on the Dremel. I use a machinist's vice to hold the Dremel in place and use it as a fixed tool. But as Loves2Shoot pointed out the radius of the tool head is not big enough. Interesting idea to use the Dremel as a personal grooming device... I'll have to give that some consideration. Probably best after a few adult beverages.

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery Seriously just to 'to do it myself'. The gun was relatively stock, but a local smith had already chamfered and numbered the cylinder and it spins freely with no discernable run-out. So it seemed like a fun way to spend a few evenings. Thank you all for the feedback, much appreciated.

That would be easier, achieve better results, and probably cost less in the long run; but where's the fun in that?

I have a couple of 625's, one with custom work (bobbed hammer, narrowed and smoothed trigger, etc...) the other mostly stock. I took it upon myself to bob the hammer on the stock 625. I've bobbed the hammer twice now; the first time I removed the spur and the second time I removed the material under the spur (I saw Carmoney's recently and was inspired). Using the tools at hand, I used a Dremel with three different heads, one for removing material, one for removing tool marks and one for polishing. I also used a file to try to achieve a more uniform surface. My biggest challenges with the Dremel are: 1) Tool "chatter" 2) Removing tool marks, 3) Getting a uniform surface. So my question is: What are the correct tools required to do this sort of work, or, what tools do you use? Thanks, Scott

Returning from my first Nationals to a flooded basement... luckily not very flooded though

You're a good man.

There are many people with some serious flooding issues; I was lucky with only three inches of water in the basement. Thanks for the concern, it is much appreciated. Scott

Thanks for the info. I checked the ratchets on my J-frames and they are all different as well. Thanks again!

At a match recently, an experienced revo shooter talked about how he tunes the ratchet. I've read enough here to know not to mess with it myself, but I curious about what an un-modified ratchet looks like. I have two 625s, a -2 and -3, both worked on by different smiths prior to my ownership. The ratchet on both are different; one has wider & shorter lugs, and the other (obviously) has thinner & longer lugs. Could someone post a picture of what stock lugs look like? And are they different between the -2 and -3? Or just point me to a blueprint. Thanks!

I take it the match is not yet full? I'm working on getting the wife to agree to a weekend in Memphis... when is the application deadline?

How do you do that? I've copied and pasted it a few times, but didn't know that it was downloadable.

I learned/found a new found respect for the professionals shooters. My flight home was delayed almost two hours, then put in a holding pattern for almost 45 minutes, getting home almost three hours later than scheduled... on my flight was a professional shooter that shot both matches back to back, and has to shoot the IDPA nationals on Thursday. That's a grueling schedule by any standards. Sure, I have to go back to work tomorrow and attend a training class all week (more time away from my family) but it's still a choice for me. I also learned that Vegas is dusty

Cliff, Congratulations on the win! It was nice meeting you and the other revo shooters on the "Super Six" squad. Looking forward to the next time.

Thanks to all, your replies are much appreciated. I was wrong, only the modified 625 exhibits this behavior. The (almost) unmodified 625 will not bind with the cylinder pushed towards the rear. The sharp outer edge of the cylinder has been polished along the turn ring. Perhaps that has something to do with it. As I have been fortunate enough to get to shoot the nationals, I'll deal with this after the nationals. Thanks again, Scott

All, I'm a new-ish revolver shooter and had a situation tonight that made me curious and thought I would ask the more experienced shooters here for some guidance. My equipment is a 625 with a four inch barrel, Blade Tech kydex holster and a North Mountain 4 post moonclip holder. The 625 is a custom job with the work done by (so I'm told) a nationally known smith. Also, I'm a lefty and I use the 'thumb through' reload method where my right thumb is through the frame. At our weekly indoor USPSA match, our third and final stage was a simple speed shoot: 3 targets, two on each, reload, two on each from about 10 yards. The situation was that I nailed the reload ('throwing' the moon-clip into the cylinder) but when I went to close the cylinder it wouldn't close. What happened was that with the cylinder open, I had somehow pushed the cylinder back and it wouldn't close because the cylinder was binding on that little extra piece of metal that is in the left rear bottom corner of the cylinder opening on the frame. I have three questions: 1. Should the cylinder have that much 'shake' when open where when pushed to the rear it will not close? (I have two 625s and they both exhibit this behavior) 2. What does that extra material (metal) on the bottom left rear of the cylinder opening on the frame do? 3. Depending on the answer to #2, can it be removed or shaped so that the cylinder will still close when pushed towards the rear while open? I realize I may be over-thinking this, but even so I am looking forward to feedback from the Benos community. Thanks, Scott

I'm going to be there; staying at the match hotel.

My first Father's day. Really, really great. That's her about an hour after being born.