leemoe83

I use the smooth Extreme. Moves the trigger face out roughly 1/8". Nice for longer fingers. I don't use the overtravel.

The majority of shooters have poor movement when a reload is required.

It's a clearance cut for the extractor. If it is sharp just debur it.

If you have not fit the safety yet check for interference between the safety and sear leg with the safety off, this can happen.

I found the Shadow 1 to be faster cycling in general then the Stock 2, with maybe a little more muzzle flip. I think the G34 also cycles faster then a Stock 2 but with much more muzzle flip. I feel the Stock 2 settles back into a good sight picture more reliably for me then either the Shadow or the 34 and is easier to shoot accurately. Up really really close I shoot the Shadow probably a little faster then a Stock 2, like maybe .02 faster splits in general. Past 12-15 yards or very tight shots I crush everything else with the Stock 2.

The CZ P series with the large back strap installed is almost exactly the same profile from the side as the Stock 2 but the S2 is wider and the stock grip panels have a slight curve. The P series feels more like the Tanfo then it does the SPO1.

Polish the chamber.

Check your extractor for smooth travel. The machining for the extractor slot in the slide is typically bad and you may have burrs in the slot and around the pin hole. You can also polish the chamber, some barrels have rather rough chambers. Just polish the high spots you won't get all the tooling marks out.

Your slide is most likely travel to slowly reward and the case is still ejecting as the slide goes forward. If you are using the same recoil spring I would really go through the gun looking for and burrs or wear that could be causing slide impediment or timing issues with barrel unlocking.

Blue should work fine.Blue = shouldRed = deffinitely

Not sure I follow the relationship between a recoil spring and a striker spring. The striker spring doesn't assist in bringing the gun into battery - that's all in the recoil spring. The only thing you might get with a lightened striker spring is light strikes on the primer - FTF's. Not failure to go into battery. What Braxton1 said was correct, the striker acts in the opposing direction of the recoil spring in a Glock. Don't know about other plastic guns.

Red Loctite

Oh man, good luck. I have found general rules that apply most of the time. Failure to eject 1. To much extractor tension 2. Slow slide speed, recoil spring to heavy, slide being slowed down by burrs and other stuff. 3. Gun not going in and of battery correctly due to barrel fit issues. Check for burrs on barrel lugs, barrel hood, breach face, etc. 4. Extractor binding due to burrs and carbon buildup. Poor surface finishes can prohibit carbon from moving out of the way of moving parts.

They are thinner.

PM Sent

$40

I have big hands, wood grips are the largest grips available. They are just barely large enough.

Thanks.

I cracked a pair of wood grips for a Stock 2. Need to order replacement from EAA. Do I order the grips for a magwell or for no magwell? The enter your serial number hasn't worked for me in the past with getting correct parts and I don't know what EAA considers a magwell. I don't want to end up with grips to fit a standard Witness and not the Stock 2.

I believe it is for clearance of the lower part of the extractor claw.

Locks up with paper between the breach face and the hood. It should though, the front face of the barrel lugs are now pushed back like .005-.01".

What would I do about it? Just shoot it and keeping cleaning up the lugs until it stops?

Duplicate please delete

The front of my barrel lugs on 2 Stock 2 guns had peened and burred. The burrs were rolled over the top of the lugs. I sanded the burrs out and the barrel locked up a lot tighter. What causes this? Slide lugs are fine. Also may have been causing stovepipe issues in one gun but haven't completely vetted that theory yet.

The front of my barrel lugs on 2 Stock 2 guns had peened and burred. The burrs were rolled over the top of the lugs. I sanded the burrs out and the barrel locked up a lot tighter. What causes this? Slide lugs are fine. Also may have been causing stovepipe issues in one gun but haven't completely vetted that theory yet.