L am not aware of any. Hornady no loger makes the M1. I don't no why as I love mine. When it dies I will go with the Dillon
The Lyman 2500 will hold 1000 9mm. I had one, but the bowl was thin and cheap.
A G35 loaded to the same PF as a G34 does shoot softer. I have both. I use a 160 gr lead bullet in the 34 and a 180 gr lead bullet in the 35. My favorite load in .40 is 2.4 gr of Clays at a 1.140" OAL. It goes 746 fps out of a LWD barrel.
Make sure the area in front of the disconnector cut is polished smooth. My Kimber and Spartan work with any mag. I don't like the Metalform 10 round though. My bullets hit the little lip in the front of the mag. It still feeds. I just don't care for the little cut it puts in my bullet. All of my rounds are loaded to 1.150". I use a 160 gr lead bullet exclusively.
A very good low cost mag is the 10 round Check-Mate 38 Super - $20. I have since converted all of my Metalform mags over to the Tripp follower. A few minutes with a cut off wheel made the lip go away.
What tiny bit of leading I get on occasion is easily removed with a Chore Boy pad. I can't afford the fancy bullets. I pay $40 per 1000 for 160 gr 9mm, $42 for 180 .40 and $44 for 200 swc .45.
I had issues with the Metalform 10 rd mags. I shoot lead bullets exclusively. The bullets would hit the little flared out lip at the front and make a cut in the bullet. I cured that by cutting it off and using Check-Mate/Tripp followers.
Seems like I was about 50 when I started shooting IDPA. I made Master four years later. I got downgraded by IDPA HQ after a near fatal motorcycle crash last August. I shot three Classifiers earlier this year and scored Marksman in SSP, ESP and CDP. That's where I started all over again. So far I have moved up to Expert in ESP and SSP at major matches. Still have a ways to go to get back to Master. I am 62 years old.
My favorite ESP load is either 3.0 of Clays or 3.5 of TG @ 1.250" OAL and a 200 lead SWC. Velocity is about identical at 685 fps out of a 5" Kimber. 25 yd groups are way under 2".
Give your bullets a very light coating of Alox followed by a dusting of mica to get rid of the sticky. I do this with all of my lead bullets - 9mm,.40 and .45.
I run Tripp mags in my Kimber and Spartan - no issues. They are a little pricey though. Best buy is a Check-Mate 38 Super mag @ $20. My CMC 38 Super mags work well also. When I use 38 Super mags I load to a 1.200" OAL.
If you look at the underside of the slide stop I bet you will see where the nose of the bullet is hitting it. Simple fix - remove a little metal in that area. I load 230 ball to 1.270".
What upgrades do you think a Spartan will need? I have one in 9mm. It runs flawlessly. I did a 1 3/4 lb trigger job and changed the recoil and main spring.
I shot TG for years when I used plated bullets. 3.0 gr with 147 bullets was very soft and accurate. When the cost of plated bullets got too expensive I started shooting lead and moly coated. Yes, TG does smoke more with lead bullets than Solo 1000 and I did get more barrel leading. Solo is a single base gun cotton powder. It has no nitro unlike TG which has a very high percentage of nitro.
I am not sure one can make PF with the lighter bullets and Solo. I have no problem with a 160 gr. bullet.
I have owned 10+ Kimbers. I have 4 in the safe now. None of them had proper extractor tension. IMO there is no reason to purchase an Aftec - just tune the one you have.
Never forget you get what you pay for. I had a 9mm Tactical for a while. It had several issues that I noted in my review. None were what I would call a deal killer. It would feed anything from any mag. One common thread is all that I have worked on is loose lateral play at the front. The frame rails are ok, but the slide rails are not. Not a big deal to fix if you have the tools. Really did not appear to effect accuracy. I just like tight guns.
The only aftermarket extended mag release that fits without modification in the Wilson - not their Bullet Proof version.
Getting rid of the funky ambi safety is going to require cutting a wider retaining groove in an aftermarket model.
Look closely at the bottom lug engagement to make certain both lugs are contacting the pin.
http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=312775&highlight=cjd45acp
If you are saying you want to go from .40 to 9mm then no problem. Just get a Lone Wolf 9mm conversion barrel. Mine runs flawlessly with just the required mag change - nothing else.
There is no way I would ever bet my life on a 9mm 1911. They are way too difficult to make run with defensive ammo. OTOH I quit carrying my lwt Commander years ago in favor of a Glock 23.
Thank goodness Ruger did not add the useless and dangerous front slide serrations. I have a friend that blew off half of his finger when his hand slipped. No he should not have had his finger on the trigger.
I have gotten Glock triggers as light as 1 lb. Just remember you are dealing with stamped and molded parts. Many have asked if I would sell my trigger bars. Answer is still no. Each part must be fitted. What works in one gun may not work in another.
Well I had my jaw surgery Tuesday. It is good to have a chin once again. Seemed pretty complicated to me. Jaw bone was cut in four places and moved forward. The first couple of days I looked pretty scary. Guess I should have waited until Halloween. My strength is returning. I still have a long way to go to get the 35-40 lbs back, but I am getting there.
Most Wednesdays I work with TBI guys at the VA.