Lexor40cal

In regards to steel, all that has to be done is make sure the steel is painted prior to the .22 shooters run, and score it like you would at a Steel Match, any visable hit, even on the edge. USPSA owns Steel Challenge now, so that ruling part is already covered, it just needs to be plagiarized. I think if a rule set is discussed here and sent up to BOD, they would want to rewrite it any way, so why not task them with it in the first place, you know they will want to control it any way! I also think the only limiting factor here should be age/physical size, this should be limited to pre-juniors age/physical size, it should be just a division without classification, a training division if you like

We spoke at this at our weekly local indoor match last night, and club president is more than happy to welcome junior shooters using .22, any form of encouragement should be taken when it comes to getting new shooters into our sport, or even if it only to be able to allow a shooter to bring his siblings along so he/she can participate, rather than stay home and babysit. We will be posting the .22 shooter scores on our local web site, scored along with everyone else, but will not push data up to USPSA when uploading scores. I am sure all of our local monthly match venues will allow the same, they are a very friendly bunch down here in Atlanta/Georgia areas.

1.200" AOL is perfect in all my STI guns, never a feed problem

I've used TightGroup and Clays in both 9mm and 45 ACP

I have two recoil masters I do not need, I will sell you both of them shipped for $100, they retail at over $85 each, $150 for two on the STI site. I will UPS them to you be with you before the end of the week Peter Oliver

115s for me as well... also use Silouette. 3N37 can melt down a gun if you shoot a lot in a hurry. I have heard from a well renouned local gun builder that 3N37 will burn the rifling out of an open barrel over time.

I'm with the Outsider, Zero 125 Gr JHP's over 8.1Gr HS6 @ 1.150" AOL works great, it is a dirty powder but cleaning is free, this is an extremely accruate load.

I am having no issues with it shooting, no high ones, no shavings, no key holeing, I was looking at cleaning it prior to starting to get any problems, but once I thought a bout it more and heard that most manually go at it, started to wonder if it was worth it. I think it would be worth it rather than buy a new one, these Ti comp's are a little pricey, some of my shooting buddies have comp's you can physically see the lead build up, mine is mainly GPR build up, but wanted to prevent it getting bad and a beast to try to clean.

Go to e-by.com and do a search for digital scale, there are many vendors out there, you just have to make sure you read the ad correctly, all of the ad, and make sure your not going to pay more for S&H than youo will for the unit. Remember G = Grams, Gr = Grains, they play games with the ad's, offering hundreths, but that is Grams not Grains. The unit I bought was the AccurA 50Gram unit, it works very well, I too used a balance scale for a long while, they are very accurate, just a pain to use, the little digital is great, with a little powder bowl it is a keeper

This was the scale I bought, the AccurA, I got the 50Gram unit, http://www.toplinedigitalscales.com/catalo...amp;item_id=235

I bought a llittel digital scale off of e-bay, $25, but you have to be wary of the ad's on there, as they are missleading, things like 0.01 Gr, Grams, K etc. Where it has the digital charactors to do hundreths, but not in Grains only Grams, and if you looking for one to measure powder for reloading that is where you need to be. I managed to get one that actually does 0.01 Grains, for $25 +S&H. Here is another tip to make measuring powder, take 10 charges in 10 cases, pour all of them into your measuring device and do the math (divid by 10), this method of averaging is way more accurate to set your dispenser, you can get to 0.05Gr easily.

So I also have to ask, is it important to clean inside the comp, does leaving it dirty effect the efficiency of it, does being cleaned out make it work better? I am a little wary of taking a dremel to it, especially around holes on the barrel facing side of the chamber walls, as that is where all the work is done, pairing off the gasses from the end of the barrel, I should imagine if this area is modified it will change the characteristics of the comp all together?

Now this sounds more like my speed, any more detail on your potion?

Using completely jacketed bullets, Zero 125 Gr JHP's, I didn't think there were lead only bullets that could with stand these velocities?? So the old manual "pick at it" method is what most are doing?, I was told of a soaking solution that would lift most of it without harming anything, I was hoping someone on here might know a little more about that, seems emersing in a solution of sometype would do a better job than chipping away at it manually?

Frankly, if I can just get a LWD or Caspian G17 slide and build an alternate upper, I'd be content with that. A G34 should be 3-pin. Anyone have experience with the LWD slides or where I can get a stock G17 slide? Rich Speak with John Nagel or Steave Breeding of S&J Customs, they can advise on Open Glock and I believe they may also have OEM slides that they need to move. See www.GlockJockey.com or http://www.glockjockey.com/index.html both will get you to them

So I have a good looking Millenium Custom, with a Ti 3 port comp on the front. I clean what I can get at, but am perplexed on how to get in the chambers and remove the build up. I have been using HS6 which is noted to be a particularly dirty powder any way, I do not want to get in there with a dremel, as I am sure that would change the way it works and obviously over time that would be a dissaster. Is there a solution you can emerse it in???

I would be interested to know just why it was attacked so heavily in the first place, I understand about reducing the bottom of the trigger gaurd to raise the weak hand higher, but in the original photo it looked like it had been gone at with a chain saw, not lightly with a dremel??

We are hoping it will be the last weekend in October, the match will be run by Mark Leeber and myself Peter Oliver, our normally monthly match is the 4th Saturday, so we are hoping for the same weekend. The JHP issue is only for the Action Pistoleers, no such RBGC rule, just to that disipline. We currently use the Cowboy bays (11 in total) but may have the tactical range open by then we will see. It will be standard format, Friday RO's & select few shooters, then 1/2 day Sat/Sun or all Sat or Sun. Mark is just awaiting fianl approval from the board at RBGC. but as it is out and on here I thought I would chime in. Peter Oliver

http://www.glockjockey.com/index.html is John Nagel and is also SJC Custom, they are all the same.......... Also he does production legal trigger jobs, not everything he does is for his open guns,

You have got to try a John Nagel Glock trigger job See http://www.glockjockey.com/index.html He can make it just as you want it, sweet is the best description

I too am a 147Gr JHP over Titegroup 9mm loader for Production, but I have a few Production shooting buddies (GM & M class) that used to shoot the same (147's), but all have just switched to 125Gr JHP overs Clays, they report it is even softer. But you have to have a full supported barrel with calys, it will bulge the brass badly in a standard Glock barrel

Smokshwn, not "feed" lip, reducing the length of the feed lips would be dissasterous, besdies the "feed lips" could never interfere with ejection. That's why you never heard of it in your 2-3 years of disscussion??? So as to clarify here is a photo of the proposed mod, may be a little to much but sharpie show rough idea of the proposed lip removal. Actually, in running 9mm and being involved in almost every discussion concerning 9major in the last 2-3 years...this is the first time I have ever heard of the common modification of grinding the feedlips shorter. To each his own, however there is 9 shooter after 9 shooter running SV tubes, Grams Guts and the basepad of their choice with great reliability.

Fullrace, I think Derek Janowitz of Millenium Custom know what he is doing when it comes to building a gun or two. All of my problems are mag related, I sold the H Smith built mags I was having a problem with and the problem dissapeared, well actually not, it followed the mags. The new owner tried them in two other 9mm open guns and the same result, no feed with STI mags without spacer and with a 38 follower. We put a spacer and 9mm follower in the H Smith mags and they ran, go figure??? I got my hands on SV mags and no longer have any isses. The trimming of the front right lip on an SV tube for 9mm is a common modification to allow a larger exjection port, especially as the front right portion of the mag does not assist with round feeding, I was shooting with two of my buddies both wel respected in the shoting world, and they both concured, all the feeding is performed by the top feed lip, the front right rim deosn't assit with feed?

I was also just shown another little trick with the SVI tubes when running 9mm, the front right feed lip can be dramatically reduced, to allow more room for ejection, looking at it nearly 1/8" needs to be removed, it serves no purpose for feeding. I am about to have at mine with a dremel.

I got to really looking at one the other day and I total agree with you about the double ribs on the SIT's, especially when using a Grams follwer, as the double ribs make the follow sit at a nose down attitude when it has ammo on top of it, it sits nose up in the SV tube??? Go figure!