GLOCK trigger question

[Braxton1]

First off, I am a "tinkerer" also. I figure that if "stock" is good, "racey" must be even better.

With that said, the thing that we have to remember is that when you start changing things, you alter the whole set-up of the gun. For example: when we install super-light recoil springs so we can shoot 130 Power Factor 9mm in Production, we work ourselves into a situation where the firing pin spring can overpower it and pull the gun slightly out of battery during the trigger press. The solution for this is usually a lighter 4# striker spring. Fine, so far. But, now we have opened ourselves up to the possibility of light strikes, especially if the gun isn't cleaned well. The rectangular firing pin window of the Glock design almost always shears off small shards of primer material. Those shards are normally unnoticeable with a full-power spring, but can be problematic with the 4# spring.

Ghost Rockets are another. Conventional wisdom says "trim back the over-travel tab until the gun goes bang, with a minimum of over-travel". That is a recipe for an intermittent light strike that will drive you crazy. If over-travel is completely removed, the lower lug of the striker will drag along the cruciform sear plate as it's moving forward, resulting in the occasional light strike. Put just a little over-travel in it and it works great.

The super-heavy Wolff trigger springs are another. They do reduce pull weight, but IMHO they make the reset "muddy" at best.

Although the Glock is a VERY modular gun, we have to always consider the interactions between these modules and remember that our modified guns will be a little more sensitive to being dirty than the factory gun.

[Sarge]

IMHO:

I would try the JAGER Ultra-Light Steel Striker w/Extended Tip + the Reduced Striker Spring.

Yeah, big +1 here. Light springs with a stock striker don't cut it. I bought the lightened and lengthened Jager with my Vanek trigger. It lights off any primer, even the last of my wolfs.

[boomfab]

I had a LWD connector that broke near the 90° bend. It came with my Vanek trigger. I replaced it with a factory Glock "-" connector and cannot tell any difference.

The LWD connector had 20K rounds on it.

[Duane Thomas]

I don't run anything but a stock striker with my lightened springs. The only time I've ever had a misfire was with (1) hard primers, (2) when I decided to go for a lightened, extended tip striker instead of a stock striker. YMMV - and obviously it does.

[Duane Thomas]

Although the Glock is a VERY modular gun, we have to always consider the interactions between these modules and remember that our modified guns will be a little more sensitive to being dirty than the factory gun.

Honestly, in my experience that's not true. I clean my Glock 17 about every 10k. After initially testing it in stock form for an article, I instantly switched out the stock recoil spring and striker spring for lighter units, and I've never had a problem running the gun in that configuration when it's absolutely filthy..

[Sarge]

Same here. The only thing I notice is my Vanek trigger gets gritty after half a dozen matches or so.

[Flexmoney]

First off, I am a "tinkerer" also. I figure that if "stock" is good, "racey" must be even better.

With that said, the thing that we have to remember is that when you start changing things, you alter the whole set-up of the gun. For example: when we install super-light recoil springs so we can shoot 130 Power Factor 9mm in Production, we work ourselves into a situation where the firing pin spring can overpower it and pull the gun slightly out of battery during the trigger press. The solution for this is usually a lighter 4# striker spring. Fine, so far. But, now we have opened ourselves up to the possibility of light strikes, especially if the gun isn't cleaned well. The rectangular firing pin window of the Glock design almost always shears off small shards of primer material. Those shards are normally unnoticeable with a full-power spring, but can be problematic with the 4# spring.

Ghost Rockets are another. Conventional wisdom says "trim back the over-travel tab until the gun goes bang, with a minimum of over-travel". That is a recipe for an intermittent light strike that will drive you crazy. If over-travel is completely removed, the lower lug of the striker will drag along the cruciform sear plate as it's moving forward, resulting in the occasional light strike. Put just a little over-travel in it and it works great.

The super-heavy Wolff trigger springs are another. They do reduce pull weight, but IMHO they make the reset "muddy" at best.

Although the Glock is a VERY modular gun, we have to always consider the interactions between these modules and remember that our modified guns will be a little more sensitive to being dirty than the factory gun.

That is a good run down of possibles.

I'll go ahead and add in the safety plunger. Which can also contact the striker and rob energy from the system.

[tobin]

The difference is a different sticker on the side of the box. 3 mags instead of 2. And, often the connectors and sights (as noted). That is all I can think of, might be more?

(Some like to say one is "practical" and the other is "tactical". Just minor parts differences.)

Never read the fine print until I read this thread.

My Glock 35 has a blue label and it has a "-" connector and says 3.5 on the label. I purchased it new from a LE distributor with the police discount.

It also says 3 mags and I know I only got 2! It's a little late to take it up with the dealer at this time as I have had it for a few years.

BTW, my former dept. issues the Glock 22 to General Patrol officers, 27 's for plainclothes, and 35's for the Tactical Response and Emergency Response Units.

Edited September 23, 2010 by tobin