BigDave Posted December 13, 2003 Share Posted December 13, 2003 Without getting into too much detail, can you file/grind metal (.010-.020") off of the curved part of a mag release? What, if any problems, would the cause? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38super Posted December 13, 2003 Share Posted December 13, 2003 If the mag tube is dragging, only remove enough for the mag tube to clear when the mag release is depressed. Altering the uplock step that retains the mag tube will cause feeding probs. This is caused by excessive angular transition between mag lip release and barrel feed ramp. Usually the top round will ram into the feed ramp and cause a stutter or fully stall the slide. Mag releases made from soft material (delrin or soft MIM) will wear out in time (esp if you practice reloads with a weighted mag) HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diehli Posted December 13, 2003 Share Posted December 13, 2003 BE's decapping pin trick seems to be the ticket if you're pushing the button too far in and keeping the mag from dropping freely. If the idea is to prevent over-depression, try that before you start grinding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigDave Posted December 13, 2003 Author Share Posted December 13, 2003 Its a mag tube clearance issue - not the actual catch itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted December 13, 2003 Share Posted December 13, 2003 You could always consider squashing the offending mag tube (if it's just one) gently in a vice. Many STI & SV mags are too long front-to-back to drop freely, especially with the new slightly-smaller grip frames. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigDave Posted December 13, 2003 Author Share Posted December 13, 2003 Sorry, single stack frame. STI Trojan - guess that was important. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted December 14, 2003 Share Posted December 14, 2003 I recently took material off the "curved part" of the mag release (nearest the button itself, inside the gun) for a student who was having this very problem. We're not talking about taking material off the shelf that holds the magazine in place. That's on the other side of the mag well from the area we're talking about. A bit of work with a dremel tool and the guy's mags were dropping fine. No fuss, no muss, no problems caused. So the answer to your question is "Yes." I'd suggest frequently reinstalling the mag button to make sure you're not taking off too much material, just enough that the curved portion of the mag button follows the interior contour of the mag well when fully depressed, and doesn't actually protrude into the mag well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PistolJim Posted December 14, 2003 Share Posted December 14, 2003 I've done the same as Duane to 3 Kimbers to get the mags to drop free all the time. No problems. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OpnBlstr Posted December 15, 2003 Share Posted December 15, 2003 I've done the same as Duane to 3 Kimbers to get the mags to drop free all the time. I do this to almost all of the 1911 pistols I work on for people. Why can't a manufacturer just make a release that is already properly relieved? It's not like none of them have had some spare time in the past 97 years to figure this out. Even brand new Wilson parts I buy need the grinder. I've done so many of them I can stick it in the vise, shape and polish, and have it reinstalled in under 5 minutes - no trial fitting required and it looks like factory finish. This means that I'm doing entirely too many of them and Kimber/SA/all-the-others need to redesign the part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigDave Posted December 15, 2003 Author Share Posted December 15, 2003 Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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