Rounds Not Fully Chambering On Reload

[JonInWA]

With my stainless steel Ruger Security Six, when using 125gr +P Winchester and/or Remington factory new ammunition, I've noticed that after firing a cylinder or two, when reloading (from an HKS speedloader) that most of the fresh rounds don't fully chamber in the cylinder, requiring a thumb-press to completely seat them. Prior to use, rounds completely chamber via gravity. While the gun is chambered for .357 Magnum, I normally shoot only factory new .38 Special 125 gr +P through it. I keep it meticulously maintained, so there's no left-over residue from previous matches/sessions in the chambers.

Any comments/suggestions/recommendations?

Best, Jon

[Chris Christian]

This is a new one on me, after 40 years of shooting revolvers. It is possible (and I'm saying only that -- possible) that the interior of your chambers are rough, or have a rough spot in them. Firing heat may be creating enough expansion in machine marks to raise a rough spot and interfere with gravity feed. Powder residue may come into play and the combination of the two may be creating enough "drag" to slow gravity feed. Most competitive revolver shooters will have each individual chamber polished to remove machine mark/rough spots. Brownell's has a polishing bit that you can do yourself, or many gunsmiths who have revolver experience can do it for you. However, you note that this is happening after only 6 to 12 rounds with factory ammo? It shouldn't happen that fast. You might want to contact Ruger.

Is this a new revolver? Or a used one? If it's used you don't know what loads were previously fired through it and an "enthusiastic" reloader may have over pressured and "jugged" a chamber. That may have an affect on gravity feed.

What you're experiencing shouldn't happen with factory ammo after 6 to 12 rounds. I'd have a gunsmith look at it... or contact Ruger. They are very good on Customer Service.

Chris Christian

[Bubber]

Jon, do the rounds chamber after running a brush through each chamber? I use a 375 Stainless Rifle bore brush once through each cylinder from time to time. It could be as C.C. mentions that the cylinder may be or have gotten rough over use and could stand a little polishing. Newspaper, cleaning rod and a drill may be enough to polish what you need out. Later rdd

[JonInWA]

Thanks, Chris. I have contacted Ruger earlier today, they're getting back to me. I did obtain the Security Six used, but immediately after obtaining it I sent it to Ruger for examination/refurbishing as needed, where it received a thorough examination and a clean bill of health.

It may be powder blow-back from the .38 +P cartridges-I understand that they're fairly notorious for this sort of thing, and the lengthened .357 magnum chambers for .38 Special +P may simply serve as an inherent wind/vortex tunnel magnifying powder blow-back.

Since I routinely carry Remington Golden Saber 125gr +P rounds for carry, I prefer to train and compete with a similar cartridge/bullet weight-I've never checked to see if the same problem occurs with stand-pressure .38 Special cartridges (or with .357 magnum cartridges).

Bubber, since the problem goes away after each cleaning (which includes bronze-brush chamber brushing), I'd have to say "yes" to your question.

My cleaning protocol includes bronze brushing chambers and barrel with Kleenbore Formula 3, residue removal via patch, followed by wet-patching chambers and barrel with Formula 3, dry patching, patching with Weapon Shield, followed by dry-patching. Powder stain/residue removal from the cylinder face and forcing cone is effected with Lead-Free wipes.

Best, Jon

Edited December 30, 2009 by JonInWA

[20nickels]

Remmington may be just using a slower powder to get a long burn and more velocity, this could be what is making your chambers dirty. You could, clean chambers between stages or reload with a faster powder. This is why Clays is a favorite among .45 shooters.

[Boats]

Cartridges droping in easy has never been an issue with my 357's but is a real issue with 45 ACP and moon clips. Difference is the way the cylinder on 45's is cut square to headspace when moons are not used. I solved it by switching to Hodgen Clays and making sure the cartridge has a nice firm crimp. Now they drop fine even after long runs without cleaning.

Bet a change of powder would cure your problem. Some of the factory stuff out there is pretty poor these days. Saw a guy at one of our matches using some cheap gun show 38's, he had a lot of problems chambering. Think I would switch ammo before polishing out the cylnders. Although a good polish and chamfer job by someone who knows how to do it is well worth the money spent.

Boats

[Carmoney]

In my experience, polishing the chambers ultra-smooth is a waste of time and elbow grease. Ensuring the chambers are reasonably free of lead build-up, that's another matter. In .45 ACP, ensuring the chambers are the correct dimension is another big issue (most unaltered 625-2s and 625-8s have chambers that are too tight).

I also agree with Bubber on using a stainless brush on the chambers. Bronze brushes are pretty ineffective.

[Boats]

If I am cleaning a real dirty chamber I use a bronze bore brush with a couple of patches wrapped around. Wet them and rub in JB paste. I also use a home made short rod that does not swivel. Twist around good and lets the JB do it's job. The fixed brush that won't rotate makes a big difference. However any load that makes a chamber hard to clean ought to be changed to something that wipes out with a few passes.

Boats

[kend]

Did you get this figured out? If you still have the same problem after you brush the chambers you may need to roll size the brass, a standard sizing die can't get all the way to the rim and there may be a slight bulge at the base causing that. If you suspect that may be the problem you can send me a few pieces and I'll roll size them for you to try.

[JonInWA]

Thanks for all of the excellent feedback, folks. Yesterday I picked up a stainless steel cylinder chamber cleaning brush, and replenished my Lead-Away stock. I also picked up some Blazer Aluminum 125gr +P as anoother ammunition for comparison. After a serious bout of cylinder chamber scrubbing, I'll be competing with the Security Six at our upcoming IDPA match on January 16.

Best, Jon

[jasond]

"My cleaning protocol includes bronze brushing chambers and barrel with Kleenbore Formula 3, residue removal via patch, followed by wet-patching chambers and barrel with Formula 3, dry patching, patching with Weapon Shield, followed by dry-patching. Powder stain/residue removal from the cylinder face and forcing cone is effected with Lead-Free wipes. "

Wow! that's quite the regimen.

[Carmoney]

Did you get this figured out? If you still have the same problem after you brush the chambers you may need to roll size the brass, a standard sizing die can't get all the way to the rim and there may be a slight bulge at the base causing that. If you suspect that may be the problem you can send me a few pieces and I'll roll size them for you to try.

Can you roll-size rimmed brass?

[JonInWA]

No-I just use factory new, Carmoney (and Kend).

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

Thanks for all the suggestions, everybody. On Saturday I again competed in our local IDPA match with the Security Six, with no reloading issues. The stainless steel chamber brush and Lead Away treatment made the difference. While I keep my guns meticulously clean, I suspect that the previous owner had used .38 Special with lead bullets, and the subsequent combination of heat and powder build-up when I shot it was just enough to cause the problems.

It was a good match-I tried to shoot as I carry, even using my Bianchi Speed Strip for reloading in one stage. My times were predictably slow, but I was pleased with my accuracy and the gun (and the Trausch grips on it).

Best, Jon

[Duane Thomas]

Photo?

[A well Earled machine]

Jon,

Years ago I started spraying the face of my 625 cylinders with a product called Carters Compensator Spray - I may have got it from Dillon, not sure. It makes a big difference as to how much fouling sticks to the inside of the cylinders. I prop the gun straight up and spray the face and let the residual run into the cylinders. I used to go to the safety area after each stage to brush the charge holes clean and now I may do it once in a match. It works for me.

EJ

P.S. Do you get over to Kitsap often?

[JonInWA]

Jon,

Years ago I started spraying the face of my 625 cylinders with a product called Carters Compensator Spray - I may have got it from Dillon, not sure. It makes a big difference as to how much fouling sticks to the inside of the cylinders. I prop the gun straight up and spray the face and let the residual run into the cylinders. I used to go to the safety area after each stage to brush the charge holes clean and now I may do it once in a match. It works for me.

EJ

P.S. Do you get over to Kitsap often?

I've found that a light coat/film of Weapon Shield after cleaning works pretty well for me to initially set up the cylinder face for residue removal-to remove the apres-use fouling from my cylinder face, on the stainless steel Security Six I first scrub with a stainless steel brush, and then wipe it thoroughly with a Lead Away patch. The Lead Away works quite nicely (but it'll remove the blueing on a blued gun, so caveat emptor).

Kitsap's just a tad too far for me for weekly matches, although they've started up an excellent Tuesday night steel plate competition. I do make the annual GSSF match there in the August/September timeframe though.

Best, Jon