slide rails

[hal1955]

There are four rails on the frame portion of the Glock, two in front and two in back that the slide moves on. Does anyone know how far down the frame these rails go? Has anyone tried bending them down to tighten up the frame to slide fit?

[G-ManBart]

There are four rails on the frame portion of the Glock, two in front and two in back that the slide moves on. Does anyone know how far down the frame these rails go? Has anyone tried bending them down to tighten up the frame to slide fit?

I don't know how far down they go, but I know that tightening them to snug up the slide to frame fit would be worse than a waste of time. It won't make the gun more accurate (that is almost entirely a function of slide to barrel fit) and it has to make the gun less reliable. R,

[racerba]

one of Glock's main design is the flexing of the frame during recoil. tightening the frame would make it less reliable.

[Glockcomma]

Do not try to bend the rails on the frame, trust me that is not the ticket to tighten up the slide to frame fit. To tighten the slide to frame fit you work on the slide and you have to know what your doing. Tightening the slide can enhance accuracy depending on your barrel fit, but will mostly help your trigger.

Tim

[hal1955]

Do not try to bend the rails on the frame, trust me that is not the ticket to tighten up the slide to frame fit. To tighten the slide to frame fit you work on the slide and you have to know what your doing. Tightening the slide can enhance accuracy depending on your barrel fit, but will mostly help your trigger.

Tim

Yeah, it's about eliminating creep.......

[zipper046]

in the book "making glocks rock" there is a procedure to help tighten up the frame to slide fit. With the slide on the gun, look at the sides and lightly mark the slide where you can see the rails (they will appear in the small gap between slide & frame). Next remove and field strip the slide. Turn it upside down and lightly tap on the bottom of the slide at the marks with a hammer.

This supposedly helps to tighten up the slide to frame fit. I have not done this myself so I cannot comment on any results.

z-

[Rob D]

in the book "making glocks rock" there is a procedure to help tighten up the frame to slide fit. With the slide on the gun, look at the sides and lightly mark the slide where you can see the rails (they will appear in the small gap between slide & frame). Next remove and field strip the slide. Turn it upside down and lightly tap on the bottom of the slide at the marks with a hammer.

This supposedly helps to tighten up the slide to frame fit. I have not done this myself so I cannot comment on any results.

z-

I remember reading about that procedure when I went through the book. My thought was, "Wow, it's that easy?....Wait, do I really want to bang on the bottom of my slide with a hammer?" I don't trust myself enough to do that on my only competition gun.

Hal, if you try this, definitely let us know how it works out.

[BlackBuzzard]

in the book "making glocks rock" there is a procedure to help tighten up the frame to slide fit. With the slide on the gun, look at the sides and lightly mark the slide where you can see the rails (they will appear in the small gap between slide & frame). Next remove and field strip the slide. Turn it upside down and lightly tap on the bottom of the slide at the marks with a hammer.

This supposedly helps to tighten up the slide to frame fit. I have not done this myself so I cannot comment on any results.

z-

I remember reading about that procedure when I went through the book. My thought was, "Wow, it's that easy?....Wait, do I really want to bang on the bottom of my slide with a hammer?" I don't trust myself enough to do that on my only competition gun.

Hal, if you try this, definitely let us know how it works out.

Need to support the slide on an anvil or heavy vise so the hammer blow's energy goes into ever so slightly tightening up the gap, and not just moving things around.

That said, unless you have a decent intuitive feel for how much hammer force is needed, and where exactly the face of the hammer needs to hit, things will go badly and cannot be undone.

Now I pound on iron as a hobby (blacksmithing), and I have a collection of hammers of all different sizes and weights.

Still this procedure was something I approached with great trepidation.

BB

[hal1955]

I know about the banging on the slide part.,,,,. What i need to know is how far down the frame the four slide rails are embedded..... I would like to get rid of the creep that occurs when the slide lifts off the frame at the end of the trigger pull without banging on the slide........I have a nice two pound trigger with all glock parts except for the four pound striker spring and I just want to get rid of that last little bit of creep....

[RogerT]

There is no "frame to slide" fit on a Glock...

The slide rides on the four rails and to reduce play between the slide and the rail you should build up the rails somehow, TIG micro welding perhaps, the danger of that is of course if the rails are heated up to much your frame is toast....

Edited November 29, 2009 by RogerT

[Calmwater]

Robin Taylor gives a step by step for this in the Glock in Competition book also.

[BlackBuzzard]

Your trigger feel etc will change after you tighten up the slide to frame fit, since now the engagement area of the trigger bar on striker tab has been altered by changing the slide/frame fit.

This is something you will definitely feel, most likely needing more trigger pull force.

A Glock is a Glock........try to adapt to its trigger characteristics.

Personally unless you are building an open gun on a G17 frame, or have a sloppy very high round count gun, I would leave it alone.

BB

[hal1955]

So, does anyone know how deeply the four rails are embedded into the frame?

[Glockcomma]

Not far, the rails are harder than hell. If you try to bend them they will crack out the side of the frame.

[Braxton1]

The rails are actually the "ends" of a U-shaped metal piece that is cast into the frame during molding. It is easy to envision the front rails because you can actually see the bottom of the "U" in the two square holes inside the dust cover, just in front of the slide lock spring.

The rear is more difficult to visualize, because it's not a true "U" in the classic sense. The metal connecting the two rear rails extends down the backstrap a little bit and into the beavertail a bit.

I hope that this is what the OP was looking for.

[hal1955]

The rails are actually the "ends" of a U-shaped metal piece that is cast into the frame during molding. It is easy to envision the front rails because you can actually see the bottom of the "U" in the two square holes inside the dust cover, just in front of the slide lock spring.

The rear is more difficult to visualize, because it's not a true "U" in the classic sense. The metal connecting the two rear rails extends down the backstrap a little bit and into the beavertail a bit.

I hope that this is what the OP was looking for.

Thank you, this is what I was looking for. My idea might work...........

[JeffWard]

The rails are actually the "ends" of a U-shaped metal piece that is cast into the frame during molding. It is easy to envision the front rails because you can actually see the bottom of the "U" in the two square holes inside the dust cover, just in front of the slide lock spring.

The rear is more difficult to visualize, because it's not a true "U" in the classic sense. The metal connecting the two rear rails extends down the backstrap a little bit and into the beavertail a bit.

I hope that this is what the OP was looking for.

Thank you, this is what I was looking for. My idea might work...........

I hope your idea works! If it does, great! If it doesn't... Time for a new slide/frame!

Let us know.

Jeff