sbpt1911 Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 Hi all, I have a Jerry Miculek on my AR15, and at 50 yards the muzzle moves a bit up and to the right. I thought of drilling a hole(s) in top of the compensator where is the best place to drill a hole? First pic or second pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00bullitt Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 First pic......but start with just one hole about .125" (1/8") I actually like to cut a slot .100" front to back and .200" side to side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aloha Robert Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 (edited) Hi all,I have a Jerry Miculek on my AR15, and at 50 yards the muzzle moves a bit up and to the right. I thought of drilling a hole(s) in top of the compensator where is the best place to drill a hole? First pic or second pic. I am not sure I really understand this question. Seems to me you would want a comp that works in first place rather than modifying it. That being said, if you other wise like the brake and it pulls one way or another, the first thing I would do is rotate the comp slightly off the 12 o'clock axis to adjust for pulling one way or another. Eliminating "lift" of sights is really an inherrent property of the original comp design but if you want to play with it, I would start with one small hole at time about .100 in diameter, closest to muzzle. In general, the farther you go away from muzzle the less effective it will be to reduce sight lift (flip). However more maximum anti lift is only obtained if the top hole is close to a baffle. Not sure why the Miculek comp is designed the way it is, but one thing for sure, if you do drill a hole wherever, make sure there is lots of metal arround it or you may get total comp failure with crack. Also if you do drill make sure you do it slowly and use lots of coolant or oil. If you get over aggressive and generate a lot of heat you may get micro anealing arround the hole which can cause cracks and failure later. Also one of the pics shows drilling holes thru the baffle, that is a definite no no. That would decrease effectiveness of comp to control recoil AND gives possiblity of comp failure, with early cracks in the baffle you would not be able to see Edited November 18, 2009 by E-Tac CNC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro2AInPA Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 Just get an SJC Titan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benny hill Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 Or a rolling thunder that is fully tuneable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxshooter Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 I have Miculek comps on 3 ARs. All you need to do is rotate the comp to eliminate the movement to the right. Just hand tighten the lock nut and shoot and rotate the comp until you find the sweet spot then tighten it down. The comp review in Front Sight rated the Miculek as one of the top comps and the price is excellent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aloha Robert Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 Well to be honest, I have a horse in this race, so take what I say accordingly, but there is a comp that has none of these problems and has no discernable movement at all. Check out our dealer forum for more details and a video to demonstrate it. You dont have to fiddle with tuning or adjustments, we alreday did all that stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken hebert Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 Or a rolling thunder that is fully tuneable. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shay1911 Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 Or a rolling thunder that is fully tuneable. +1 Sorry for the basic question. How do you tune the rolling thunder? Is there a write up on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmshozer1 Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 Well to be honest, I have a horse in this race, so take what I say accordingly, but there is a comp that has none of these problems and has no discernable movement at all. Check out our dealer forum for more details and a video to demonstrate it. You dont have to fiddle with tuning or adjustments, we alreday did all that stuff. Read this. Ordered one. Received it. PROBLEM! It is 1/3-16 in diameter. To big around to use in anything but open class. Screwed it on anyway to see if it worked as described. For me,"normal body, stance, grip," it moved sharply to the right. Funny thing, all very fast double taps at 35 yds were in the center. My timing, don,t know? Anyway, called them, they said they were working on a legal one for our game and would exchange it for the one I have. Take care. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00bullitt Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 Well to be honest, I have a horse in this race, so take what I say accordingly, but there is a comp that has none of these problems and has no discernable movement at all. Check out our dealer forum for more details and a video to demonstrate it. You dont have to fiddle with tuning or adjustments, we alreday did all that stuff. Read this. Ordered one. Received it. PROBLEM! It is 1/3-16 in diameter. To big around to use in anything but open class. Screwed it on anyway to see if it worked as described. For me,"normal body, stance, grip," it moved sharply to the right. Funny thing, all very fast double taps at 35 yds were in the center. My timing, don,t know? Anyway, called them, they said they were working on a legal one for our game and would exchange it for the one I have. Take care. I got one too but got it knowing it was only legal for Open and not so much designed for competitions as much as it was made for shear durability to withstand repeated full auto firing . But my intention was for Full Auto. But on a 10.5" gun it made a huge difference and looks mean as hell on the end of the muzzle. We could basically mag dump and the dot never left the center mass of the US Popper(fixed position) we were shooting at. Even one handed. We took it off and shot it naked muzzle and it climbed over a foot above the target. It also does a great job of taming flash. We took some great video of it in action and I will be sending it to Robert at GoGun for use on his website. I do look forward to checking out the competition version. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00bullitt Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 Or a rolling thunder that is fully tuneable. +1 I've never had to tune the first SJC Titan....but I guess its nice to have the capability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken hebert Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 I've never tuned a Rolling Thunder either, whether it be a gen 1 or a gen 2, haven't had the need. But the ability is there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 Or a rolling thunder that is fully tuneable. +1 Sorry for the basic question. How do you tune the rolling thunder? Is there a write up on it? There is now! I must add that Mr. Benny Hill told me how to do this. I just tuned mine this weekend on the back of my pickup with a cordless drill and 20 rounds of 223. I am a righty so I hold the forearm with my left hand. That left hand is placed as far out front as it can go on the hand guard. The recoil impulse sends the gun the opposite direction of that left hand which is up and right. So I started with the smallest drill bit in my trusty cheapo crafstman drill bit box and made a hole on the 3 o'clock postion of the compensator(or as close to 3 as I could eyeball). I then fired 2-3 rounds at an IPSC target 15-20 yds away and watched the dot in my Accupoint rise to the upper right. I then used the next bit size larger and shot 2-3 more while observing the dot rise and fall. I did this two or three more times until the dot only moved upwards. I then opened up the hoel on the top of the Rolling Thunder one more size and BOOM! No more dot movement. Its a beautiful thing. Here are some pics. RIGHT SIDE TOP LEFT SIDE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shay1911 Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 Or a rolling thunder that is fully tuneable. +1 Sorry for the basic question. How do you tune the rolling thunder? Is there a write up on it? There is now! I must add that Mr. Benny Hill told me how to do this. I just tuned mine this weekend on the back of my pickup with a cordless drill and 20 rounds of 223. I am a righty so I hold the forearm with my left hand. That left hand is placed as far out front as it can go on the hand guard. The recoil impulse sends the gun the opposite direction of that left hand which is up and right. So I started with the smallest drill bit in my trusty cheapo crafstman drill bit box and made a hole on the 3 o'clock postion of the compensator(or as close to 3 as I could eyeball). I then fired 2-3 rounds at an IPSC target 15-20 yds away and watched the dot in my Accupoint rise to the upper right. I then used the next bit size larger and shot 2-3 more while observing the dot rise and fall. I did this two or three more times until the dot only moved upwards. I then opened up the hoel on the top of the Rolling Thunder one more size and BOOM! No more dot movement. Its a beautiful thing. Here are some pics. Thanks so much! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aloha Robert Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 Well to be honest, I have a horse in this race, so take what I say accordingly, but there is a comp that has none of these problems and has no discernable movement at all. Check out our dealer forum for more details and a video to demonstrate it. You dont have to fiddle with tuning or adjustments, we alreday did all that stuff. Read this. Ordered one. Received it. PROBLEM! It is 1/3-16 in diameter. To big around to use in anything but open class. Screwed it on anyway to see if it worked as described. For me,"normal body, stance, grip," it moved sharply to the right. Funny thing, all very fast double taps at 35 yds were in the center. My timing, don,t know? Anyway, called them, they said they were working on a legal one for our game and would exchange it for the one I have. Take care. I got one too but got it knowing it was only legal for Open and not so much designed for competitions as much as it was made for shear durability to withstand repeated full auto firing . But my intention was for Full Auto. But on a 10.5" gun it made a huge difference and looks mean as hell on the end of the muzzle. We could basically mag dump and the dot never left the center mass of the US Popper(fixed position) we were shooting at. Even one handed. We took it off and shot it naked muzzle and it climbed over a foot above the target. It also does a great job of taming flash. We took some great video of it in action and I will be sending it to Robert at GoGun for use on his website. I do look forward to checking out the competition version. At GoGun We have tried to make it very plain, the Talon comp is not legal for tactical only for open. Also it is designed to just plain work great under semi auto or full auto fire. It is was over built to take real punishment. I am thrilled to hear that dot does not leave center of mass on full auto fire, that was our goal, and just plain shootability. We have not had any other coments about pulling to right. It seems to stay extremely centered. One shooting problem that just does not happen with Talon Brake is naturall tendency to tense shoulder just before shot and to let up and not follow thru with shot which might cause pulling to right. But if you really relax, the brake shoots the gun with out much muscular input at all. About the wicked look, Yes it looks WAY wicked, but practical also. The aggressive talon tips have a beveved edge that will not cut skin easily but will splinter wood for breaching without getting stuck. If all else fails, your rifle becomes a VERY Effective hand weapon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cworks Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 (edited) How is the Comp test to compared "today's" standards?! I am partial toward the SJC (I have only shot the SJC and the newest ((futuristic)) firebird comp) and I like the SJC better. Edited October 11, 2011 by cworks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larry weeks Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 +2 on tuning the Rolling Thunder as detailed by Jesse. Except for me jerking and pushing it around, my gun doesn't move once I tuned it as shown. If I could get my trigger finger to go faster I'd be great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Smith Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 I have a Jerry Miculek on my AR15, and at 50 yards the muzzle moves a bit up and to the right. I may be mis-remembering this as I only looked at one for a while last year, but I seem to recall that there was a right side up and a wrong side up on those. Plus they need to be clocked a little to the left (11:30) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benny hill Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 The rolling thunder comp has ALWAY'S been tactical legal. 1"x3" from muzzle. Nordic has been making them for years for me.Better check your micro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuke8401 Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 About 11:30 for a lefty, 12:30 for a righty. Oriented with the majority of the opening visible from above vice below, hence creating some down force. Jerry M on his video says depending on how the shooter grips the rifle some canting may be needed to negate the left or right movement. Mines about 1:00. David E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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