Bucky Posted November 28, 2003 Share Posted November 28, 2003 I want to blue just a slide and the top (metal) part of an STI Modular frame. (Maybe the hammer too) Anyone have any recommendations? Also, do you know if they remove the sights and blue them seperately, or do they leave it on the slide? Thanks. PS: Not interested in any other finishes at this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky Posted November 28, 2003 Author Share Posted November 28, 2003 Oh yeah, and what should the average cost be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Schwab Posted November 30, 2003 Share Posted November 30, 2003 I would say to drop it off at EGW with $100, they send stuff to get blued every week so you'd have a decent turnaround time, and the bluing is real nice. http://www.egw-guns.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted December 1, 2003 Share Posted December 1, 2003 [disclaimer]I know very little about it... When I was at Cylinder & Slide for their gunsmithing class, they had some current projects that we got to look over. Their stuff looked as much like a "colt blue" as anything I've seen. They blue in house. They fire up the tanks on Fridays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky Posted December 1, 2003 Author Share Posted December 1, 2003 Well, I normally deal with EGW - he does AWESOME work. But I do know that he does not blue in house. Also, this is just a temporary deal as I know over the next six months they'll be so much hacking, sanding and filing that it'll need a refinish within a year. EGW's web site list $100 to blue entire gun. Kind of a lot for a temp job. Used to have a local guy who would do a couple parts if they were prepped for $20 a piece for the big parts and could probably get the hammer thrown in. That would be $40. Unfortunately, they've gone out of business. My original thought was to leave it in the white until all my tinkering was done, but the thing is rusting no matter how much I keep it lubed. I can check Cylinder and Slide. Problem is, since it's a frame there's issues and cost associated to shipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old shooter Posted December 1, 2003 Share Posted December 1, 2003 Bucky, Have you considered cold bluing the gun yourself? Get some oxpho blue from brownells, it goes on easy and should keep your gun from rusting. The Dicropan is prettier, but more difficult to apply. Also, sometime cutting either with alcohol makes it take a little bit better. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reneet Posted December 1, 2003 Share Posted December 1, 2003 Here are a few places that do the work themselves that I have personal experience with. Tech Plate is by far the quicker of the 2. http://www.techplate.com http://www.apwcogan.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Di Vita Posted December 1, 2003 Share Posted December 1, 2003 Wow, I skimmed over this title fast and had to do a double-take. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky Posted December 1, 2003 Author Share Posted December 1, 2003 Reneet, thanks for the info - but again, CA or Fl, we're still talking shipping which may eat into the savings. Mike, yeah I though of cold blue and immediately dismissed it. I've done small parts (sights, hammers) using the Brownells 4140 (or something like that). I thought that maybe a frame and slide would be a bit excessive for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDean Posted December 1, 2003 Share Posted December 1, 2003 Man I did a double-take on the title of this thread..... Blue-job, ok got it. Wheew! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted December 2, 2003 Share Posted December 2, 2003 I missed the part about the frame...thought it was just a slide. You could parkerize it yourself, and then get a hard-chrome (or whatever) later, when you are done tinkering. (and, you can re-parkerize it along the way) http://www.roderuscustom.tzo.com/progressDetail1.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky Posted December 2, 2003 Author Share Posted December 2, 2003 Thanks Flex, not a bad idea. Almost as much to start, but can be done multiple times. I wonder if the kit contains enough for multiple applications. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted December 2, 2003 Share Posted December 2, 2003 I recall that others have done Multiple runs. I am sure Brownell's (or whoever) sells a big (enough) jug for multiple applications. There is forum on that site I linked to...lots of do-it-yourself'er there. Seems like it is mostly prep work (super-clean), and easy enought to redo if you don't like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reneet Posted December 2, 2003 Share Posted December 2, 2003 Slight thread drift ... Just spoke with my UPS rep a few days ago. He said if we split a gun up into 2 packages (1911 upper in 1 & lower in the other / Revolver frame assembly in 1 & cylinder assembly in the other) that they would NOT consider it a handgun. You can then ship by Ground cutting shipping expense at least in half. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slughammer Posted December 2, 2003 Share Posted December 2, 2003 I know you thought about the cold blue and dismissed it, but I don't think a slide is too big of a part for a temp "cold blue" job. I would remove the sights and heat the slide in boiling water. Put it on a wire rack inside the pot to keep it off of the bottom. After you pull the slide out, shake it a couple of times and the rest of the water will evaporate quickly. The heat makes cold blue take much better and darker. I'm not sure how smooth the surface finish is right now, but buffing may help reduce the speed at which it rust. Bead blasted Stainless tends to rust easily, but the same Stainless polished resist rust much better. One other thought is to use a wax or polish after the buffing job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky Posted December 2, 2003 Author Share Posted December 2, 2003 Does it make any difference which Cold Blue I use? The surfaces are already polished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slughammer Posted December 2, 2003 Share Posted December 2, 2003 I imagine any of the Brownells products should be fine. I used Birchwood Casey "Junk" and did some bullet mold blocks and some front sights. Try some test samples first, I'm sure you have a parts box that most of us would envy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiG Lady Posted December 2, 2003 Share Posted December 2, 2003 ...a good WHAT job...? (sorry, I just now dialed into this thread) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wide45 Posted December 3, 2003 Share Posted December 3, 2003 Do not use the Birchwood Casey Super Blue. The regular stuff will look better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old shooter Posted December 4, 2003 Share Posted December 4, 2003 If you cold blue, Oxpho blue is the easiest and touches up the best, and your parts don't have to be perfectly clean for good results. Dicropan will make excellent blueing and ask for free cold blueing directions. Both from Brownells, and direction flyer is free. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffro Posted December 4, 2003 Share Posted December 4, 2003 ...a good WHAT job...? (sorry, I just now dialed into this thread) Doggone it, SiG Lady............. ever since you have been supervising those sex clinics that is ALL YOU THINK ABOUT!!!!!!!! Get your mind BACK on GUNS!! Jeffro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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