Self-Inflicted Hammer Spur-ectomy

[atlscrog]

I have a couple of 625's, one with custom work (bobbed hammer, narrowed and smoothed trigger, etc...) the other mostly stock.

I took it upon myself to bob the hammer on the stock 625. I've bobbed the hammer twice now; the first time I removed the spur and the second time I removed the material under the spur (I saw Carmoney's recently and was inspired).

Using the tools at hand, I used a Dremel with three different heads, one for removing material, one for removing tool marks and one for polishing. I also used a file to try to achieve a more uniform surface.

My biggest challenges with the Dremel are:

1) Tool "chatter"

2) Removing tool marks,

3) Getting a uniform surface.

So my question is: What are the correct tools required to do this sort of work, or, what tools do you use?

Thanks,

Scott

[ChrisC]

don't know i sent mine to Carmoney

[atlscrog]

That would be easier, achieve better results, and probably cost less in the long run; but where's the fun in that?

[nashvillebill]

Correct tools, I don't know. I used wet-dry sand paper and hard sanding blocks (plexiglass) to remove tool marks. Started with 400, 600, 1000 then 1500 using naptha as the "wet". Then I used polishing compound on a long cloth and gave it the old shoe shine move to bring it to a mirror finish. And as any Magpie will tell you, "shiny is better".

[Loves2Shoot]

Please put down the dremmel and slowly take a few steps back.

The 1/2" drums that most folks use are no good to use, they dig holes unless you are very skilled with them, you need a tool with a larger radius.

You can get 3" scotchbrite wheels in different grits that you might be able to work, but I wouldn't use anything less than a 6" if I had a choice, 10" works well. The scotchbrite wheels are expensive, so they might not make sense if you don't have a lot of things to fit, but they do a great job.

If you have a local fab shop, they will have them and you can do in a minute what you can't do in an hour with an inadequate tool.

Good luck!

[Brian Gonsalves]

This is what I used,

[Carmoney]

Why Fauxmonize?

[atlscrog]

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery

Seriously just to 'to do it myself'. The gun was relatively stock, but a local smith had already chamfered and numbered the cylinder and it spins freely with no discernable run-out. So it seemed like a fun way to spend a few evenings.

Thank you all for the feedback, much appreciated.

[Boats]

Standard advice is not to use Dremmels but have never seen a gunsmiths bench with out one. They are hard to hold. I have a bar that fits the tool post on my lathe. Other end is threaded for the chuck end of a Dremmel. Chuck the job up and run the Dremmel with the Cross feed. Lathe is not turning only used to hold the work and control the cut. It's real precise. Clamped tight is best for any Dremmel work.

If you want some free hand Dremmel practice try taking corns & calluses off your feet with one. Trims toenails good too. Mistakes are costly though.

Boats

Edited September 30, 2009 by Boats

[atlscrog]

Good points on the Dremel. I use a machinist's vice to hold the Dremel in place and use it as a fixed tool. But as Loves2Shoot pointed out the radius of the tool head is not big enough.

Interesting idea to use the Dremel as a personal grooming device... I'll have to give that some consideration. Probably best after a few adult beverages.

[Matt Griffin]

I use the Dremel willy-nilly, then go back with sandpaper. To finish to a mirror polish, I use DuPont rubbing compound #9. It's aggressive but leaves the piece very shiny. Cloth wheels on the Dremel work well, but are a bit messy.

H.

[Keith]

I tried the dremel method but got impatient quickly and now just stick em in a mill with a carbide endmill. I just crank up the RPM's for the final cut and then use a little scotch-brite to take out any remaining tool marks. (it's nice to have machine tools available)

[Tom E]

just stick em in a mill with a carbide endmill.

That's cheating.

[Keith]

just stick em in a mill with a carbide endmill.

That's cheating.

Yes. Yes it is.

[Gregg K]

I just use a cutoff wheel in my Foredom to remove the spur and add it to my collection. I mark the hammer with a Sharpie and then take it to the bench grinder until I start to get close and switch back to the Foredom with sanding drums. Since the drums are smaller than the final curve a little free hand is used here with the hammer in a vice. I finish up with progressively finer grit sandpaper starting at 120 and ending with 1500. A little work on the buffing wheel and it looks chrome plated.

A Foredom is the Tim Allen of Dremels. Mine is 1/3 HP with 15K RPM. It does fast work if you use it right.

Don't let Carmoney find out about the super powered Foredoms, there is no telling what he would try to do with that much power.

Edited September 30, 2009 by Gregg K

[Carmoney]

Geez, you give some guys a rope, they think they're a cowboy.