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Para Grip


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I really like the grip removed-tape the frame approach as it makes me feel I have more control of the gun but everyone has a different favorite feel.

The really nice thing about taping the frame is that you can do any color that skateboard tape is made. Mine are currently red, but I might just change for spring to match my shoes and handbag.

By the way can you actually remove the grips for production? I thought it was a no-no.

Does anyone have a template for covering the frame of P-16 with grip tape.

I have the skateboard tape on mine and it works great. About the template, I just used a piece of paper and started with little cuts. Then it dawned on me, just use the Hogue grips as a template and trace around. So if you have the Hogue's, use it as a template. A friend I shoot with took the "front strap" from the Hogue's and chopped it off. He then glued it to the frame and wrapped the rest with skateboard tape. Looks wierd, but feels great and works well for him.

JOe

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I've still got a piece I cut off of my 1911 TruGrip stuck to the frontstrap. This is large enough to fit under the grip panels, so I doubt it will come off.

My attempt at cutting the TruGrips for the panels was not as successful. The only place the material was large enough to wrap around the grip was a small section at the mainspring housing pin. The rest was left to try to stick to the "checkering". So far my left panel has lasted a few months, but the right panel let go. I replaced it with stair thread tape from Lowes, cutting it big enough to wrap around the edges of the grip panels, letting the pressure from the panels hold it in place.

I greatly prefer the feel of the trugrips, but without sheets of the stuff being available, the stair thread tape will have to do.

I've been tempted to try the AGrip, but they list 1911s, para, and STI as the same model number. Don't see how that is possible unless there's a lot of extra material that can be trimmed off.

I've given up on waiting for trugrips for the para (I guess lack of demand), so I guess I'll get extra grip panels and either sand the checkering off, or find something like an epoxy that would fill the checkering (any ideas out there). I'd rather not sand the checkering because I don't want the grip size reduced.

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What about the STI TruGrip? AFA A-Grip, the stuff is uber-stretchy, so it makes sense that it'll "work" for them all. It can get un-tacky and start coming off, however (seems more prone to that than TG).

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If you want tape to stick to your grips, get either smooth Alumagrips or S&A smooth micarta grips. Both provide bomproof adhesion.

The lack of availability of TruGrip for the Para has been:

1) Low demand

2) High startup costs - Whenever I do something that's totally new, I actually USE it before I sell it. I don't just fit it to a plastic model and start pumping grip tape out the door hoping it doesn't fall off. I try to get at least 1K of lead downrange on each new thing I do before it hits the street. That doesn't make for rapid product development and probably won't get me anywhere with upper management, but as long as I'm the boss, that's the way it's gonna be. ;)

I'll see if I can rent Kimel's Para from him once he's had a chance to wring out his new Brazos blaster.

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For sure trugrip will not stick to the checkered para grips as well as anyone would like, but I've got a piece from my 1911 supply that's still sticking to my left grip panel. I guess the minor amount of smooth area on the edges of the grips is what its sticking to.

My right panel came off, but I'm thinking a shooter who was checking out my grips at the SC State match may have had something to do with it. I replaced it with Lowes stair tread tape, but it doesn't compare.

Too bad there's not enough demand for a Para version. I hate it, but a person doesn't stay in business by losing money.

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I skateboard tape on the frame.

I didn't know where to get the grip inserts in SA (to fill the gaps in the frame where the trigger bar runs), so I cut the top part off the grips - just enough to go just slightly below the gaps that the grips fill.

I sanded the grips really, really thin and smoothed the corners where I cut the grips down to nothing. I also sanded off all of the checkering so that the tap[e would stick.

These "grip inserts" work with just the top grip screw. It works great and the extra width is next to nothing - it's also less of an issue at the top of the grip with my thumb (now) on the safety and my trigger finder away from the frame anyway.

The tape adheres easily and is wrinkle free and smooth.

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I've had really good luck using tread tape from the paint department at Home Depot. I've used it on the frame and the grips and never had any peel up. I think the trick is to get the grips, frame and tape warm. I let mine sit in the sun for awhile and let it all get nice and warm to the touch. The adhesive gets good and pliable and will conform to the nooks and crannies of the grips and frame.

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