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Riding the reset with a revolver.


badchad

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I have Jerry’s video and that’s how he teaches it. The sights seem more stable when I do so compared to pulling the finger off and prepping the trigger like I do with my Glock. However it would be nice to be consistent. So with a revolver does everyone keep their finger on the trigger during the reset?

FWIW, I think I recall on TGO’s website in the Q&A that he shot all triggers (regardless of gun type) the same, in which he pulls the finger off completely and then slaps, but I couldn’t find that when I went back to check.

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I think shooting a revolver is different in that it requires a distinctive intentional trigger release motion after each trigger pull. Riding the trigger forward, and relying on the rebound spring to do the work, is a very bad habit with a revolver and causes the all-too-common "double-clutch" problem you sometimes see. I don't think my finger comes off the trigger, though, and I don't think anybody can successfully slap a DA trigger.

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I'm confused by the terminology. I think of "riding the reset" as releasing the trigger only enough to reach the reset point, where the gun will fire if the trigger is pulled again, instead of moving through the full forward travel of the trigger. On my 625 the reset point is at full forward travel so I just release the trigger until it stops moving, but I don't take my finger off the trigger. There isn't any pre travel as things start happening as soon as the trigger is moving so I can't prep it like on a semi auto (and I don't feel the need to do them both the same way).

So are we talking about feeling for the reset point or just not taking the finger off the trigger?

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I'm confused by the terminology. I think of "riding the reset" as releasing the trigger only enough to reach the reset point, where the gun will fire if the trigger is pulled again, instead of moving through the full forward travel of the trigger. On my 625 the reset point is at full forward travel so I just release the trigger until it stops moving, but I don't take my finger off the trigger. There isn't any pre travel as things start happening as soon as the trigger is moving so I can't prep it like on a semi auto (and I don't feel the need to do them both the same way).

So are we talking about feeling for the reset point or just not taking the finger off the trigger?

I think we're talking about "minimum forward travel necessary to cycle the gun again," which as you point out is nearly at the end of the stroke for a revo, anyway.

H.

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I'm confused by the terminology. I think of "riding the reset" as releasing the trigger only enough to reach the reset point, where the gun will fire if the trigger is pulled again, instead of moving through the full forward travel of the trigger. On my 625 the reset point is at full forward travel so I just release the trigger until it stops moving, but I don't take my finger off the trigger. There isn't any pre travel as things start happening as soon as the trigger is moving so I can't prep it like on a semi auto (and I don't feel the need to do them both the same way).

So are we talking about feeling for the reset point or just not taking the finger off the trigger?

I think we're talking about "minimum forward travel necessary to cycle the gun again," which as you point out is nearly at the end of the stroke for a revo, anyway.

H.

Yes but you have to be moving your finger forward, not letting the trigger push your finger forward.

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I think that Camoney and Patrick best present what goes on while shooting a revolver at speed. The better shooters come off the trigger. A smooth pull at their set tempo but coming off the trigger and smoothly. . And like was mentioned you may a great deal of "double-clutching" if you ride the reset.

On pistols Rob(TGO) slaps the trigger. He does not slap a revolver trigger - doesn't work.

Edited by Viggen
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The key to smooth DA trigger work is to match the release speed with the press speed.

And my take is in that order.

So if you are hammering out fast splits up close, yank 'n' crank.

If you're going for a 25 yard tight shot, squeeze the shot in and release at the speed that you will need for the press on the next shot.

If that next shot is another similar shot, i.e. a split or transition to another similar target, you'd release at the speed you pressed the previous shot.

If it's a hoser target you'd release at the speed for that shot.

That's the way I was told and it seems to work very well. Now if I can just remember it after the buzzer goes off.

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