Spray_N_Prey Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Ok my 627 Pro will be here in a few days and then it's off to carmoney for work. then.................................. 1.Ok I want to use 38 short colts, let me see if I have this straight. I need to order STARLINE brass, and then use HEARTHCO moonclips (they have special ones for 38sc starline?). Someone mentioned on an earlier thread that they could use the moonclips for 38spec and 38sc, is this right? I would like the option of using 38 special also. 2. to reload 38 sc I need a 38spec resize die, 9mm bell die, 38 spec seating die and a 9mm crimp die. Ok also on the thought of crimping, I NEVER CRIMP the cases on my 9mm,40 or 45. I just remove the bell, because the resizing is what holds the bullet, not the crimp. I read earlier where someone stated that you needed a good crimp on revolver rounds, can someone explain. Like I said all I ever do is straighten the bell back to normal (got the advise from Brian Enos) 3. I am going to use lead bullets and maybe some berries, what do you recommend? also should they be .357 / .358 diam? I know that lead bullets in 9mm are .356 to where jacketed / plated are .355. does the same apply for 38 sc / 38 spec? ( .357 for plated / jacketed - .358 for lead) 4. what is the best equipment to use ? holsters, moonclip holders, moonclip loaders / unloaders and anything else I might need. 5. Someone was talking about shooting MAJOR in one of the other threads in USPSA in the .38 /.357 caliber. I thought that to shoot major (except in open) that the bullet diameter needed to be .400, is there something else i am missing? I know there's lots of questions here, but I NEED HELP hehehe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mainus Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...l=38+short+colt This thread should answer all of your questions Good luck and welcome to the revolver world. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spray_N_Prey Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...l=38+short+coltThis thread should answer all of your questions Good luck and welcome to the revolver world. Tom yep just read that before I posted, wanted to make sure that I had it all right, and still need info on the tools / demooner's / holsters / etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 My advice: 1. For best results, use Starline .38 Short Colt brass in Hearthco moonclips. These moons will also work perfectly for Starline .38 Special brass. 2. Use plenty of crimp on your revolver ammo. This will help ease reloads, ensure a complete powder burn, and prevent bullets from being pulled forward by inertia under recoil. 3. I can't offer much help here--I'm between loads right now, as my favorite bullet for .38 Short Colt is no longer in production. 4. I use Bladetech and CR Speed holsters, the North Mountain moonclip holder, a Prudhome mooning tool and Brownells screwdriver-style demooner. I also use the Millett rear sight, a fiber optic front sight (SDM or EGW), and the Hogue cylinder latch. 5. You can shoot major with .38/.357 in Revo division, although it is not an ideal choice. Although some have tried it (mostly Europeans), I would not recommend trying to make major with Short Colt brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spray_N_Prey Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 thanks Mike, that's what I was looking for. Is there anything wrong with the mooncliptool (www.mooncliptool.com) ? I would rather spend more money up front and never replace something then buy something 2 or 3 times (upgrading, breaking, etc.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Sahlberg Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 The post noted has lots of good info. You will soon regret trying to shoot lead bullets as they will make your cylinder dirtier and harder to reload. The tight crimp is important too, re-read the last post. If you do not crimp your bullets, they will start to back out of the case and give you very inconsistent velocities and groups. I use Montana Gold 130 gr RN .356 Super at 1.100" OAL in StarLine cases, Federal 100 primers, and 4.6 gr Universal Clays. In my 5" bbl 627. I get very consistent loads and very accurate at 50 yds with @ 1050 fps. I have used this same load for 10 years and I can shoot 15 stages without ever having to swab my cylinder at all. You have a good expensive revolver, now is not the time to try to save a few bucks per 1000 in lead bullets. When you use the best, you can expect the best results, when you use cheaper components, you can not expect the same results. I have never seen a Double AA funny car use anything but Alcohal / Nitro-Methane in achieving those 300 MPH speeds in the quarter mile....but I suppose they may run on 88 octane.......all of us have experimented with many different loads and you have the benefit of our experience.....use it to your advantage! I am stubborn, stupid, and yes, I have a ton of left over powders and bullets that I will sell you very cheap :-) Bill Sahlberg L1283 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spray_N_Prey Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 is it pretty easy to load major PF with 38 special brass? i mean is it like 9mm to where your just waiting for an accident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 is it pretty easy to load major PF with 38 special brass? i mean is it like 9mm to where your just waiting for an accident. With heavy bullets and careful powder selection, you can easily achieve major PF with .38 Spl. brass. My favorite pin load is a 230-gr. flat-nose bullet sized .357 loaded in mixed .38 Special brass to 1050 fps....to say it makes major is a bit of an understatement! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hearthco Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 is it pretty easy to load major PF with 38 special brass? i mean is it like 9mm to where your just waiting for an accident. With heavy bullets and careful powder selection, you can easily achieve major PF with .38 Spl. brass. My favorite pin load is a 230-gr. flat-nose bullet sized .357 loaded in mixed .38 Special brass to 1050 fps....to say it makes major is a bit of an understatement! Mike, toy must be some kind of freak for recoil!! Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 I will only chime in here to state that there is nothing wrong with loading up some lead. I agree that it will take some more cleaning and maintenance on the gun, but if you need to practice and learn how to shoot the gun and run it at speed, in this economy Lead is the only way to fly. Find a good jacketed load for big matches, but there is absolutely no problem running lead bullets......I would recommend a powder like CLAYS or Solo 1000......I havent worked up a load yet but when I do I will post it here. I was told a story once.....about a guy asking his gunsmith how to go up a class in his competion......He said to buy an 8lb keg of powder, and enough lead bullets and other components to shoot up the 8lbs.......The gunsmith said when he was done with the 8lbs of powder he would be ready to move up at least one class, and I think there is a lot of wisdom in that advice...... DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 I will only chime in here to state that there is nothing wrong with loading up some lead. I agree that it will take some more cleaning and maintenance on the gun, but if you need to practice and learn how to shoot the gun and run it at speed, in this economy Lead is the only way to fly. Yes, I agree completely with Doug (my personal handloading guru). I shoot a lot of cast lead bullets--I use them at most local matches, and even some majors. With the right loads, and if the gun is set up right, you should be able to make it easily through an entire major match without having to stop by the safe area to brush out the gun. Sometimes it gets a little smoky (depending on the lighting conditions, wind, and humidity), but usually not to the point that it becomes a major problem. As Doug points out, shooting lead bullets does necessitate more frequent cleaning, but that's OK because revolvers really should be cleaned fairly frequently anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Mike, toy must be some kind of freak for recoil!! Dave Not as bad as you might think, actually. Even with the light-contoured 8-3/8" Model 27 I always used for pins, it's pretty controllable, all things considered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Mike, toy must be some kind of freak for recoil!! Dave Not as bad as you might think, actually. Even with the light-contoured 8-3/8" Model 27 I always used for pins, it's pretty controllable, all things considered. Thought you had a heavy barreled 7 shooter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Mike, toy must be some kind of freak for recoil!! Dave Not as bad as you might think, actually. Even with the light-contoured 8-3/8" Model 27 I always used for pins, it's pretty controllable, all things considered. Thought you had a heavy barreled 7 shooter? Naw, my main pin gun is a plain ol' stock 27 with a Baummanize cylinder. I shot it for both Pin and Stock main events, including the year I fiinished 2nd overall. I do have a heavy-barreled 25-2 (made by John Nowlin) that I shot in the main events for a couple years before switching over to the .357, then I shot it only in the 8-pin side event. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmax Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Mike, The only problem with the 230's is at and beyond 25 yards, a bit of a problem for Far & Near. Also a bugger to reload fast for up close fast targets. I did use them when I won OSS Stock in 91 at 2nd Chance though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Good thing we shoot pins at 25 feet, huh John? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 I figured out the fix for problems with lead bullets. I now cast my own, they are sized to perfectly fit my cylinder throughs and they are hard. I use wheel weights and water quench them for a BHN of 32. Even at 1400 fps they don't lead. I'm also using 180 grain bullets now. They only need to do 690 fps for USPSA. My load does 825 fps or I get blown primers from lack of bullet pressure in the cylinder. This bullet only needs 916 fps to make Major and I have a lot of data that will do that with a few different powders. This is all in .38 special brass. I think I'll try some of the 180s in 38 sc for giggles and see how it does. I normally was shooting 160 RNL in the 38 SC with no problems and with loads that I found in older manuals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmax Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Good thing we shoot pins at 25 feet, huh John? Absolutely and those slow reloads were negated at 2nd Chance by using a second revolver and a drop box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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