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S&W trigger job guys, WHAT'S THIS?!?


20nickels

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S&W trigger job guys, WHAT'S THIS?!?

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So I bought a Model 386 and everything is great except the crappy trigger, but that can usually be fixed. So I get the stones out and pull the guts out and find this. It is a raised bump on the part that contacts the cylinder stop! It sure explains the craptastic trigger. This may make sense to somebody, but not me. Must....contain... rage... :angry2:

post-13593-1225314337_thumb.jpg

post-13593-1225314361_thumb.jpg

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S&W trigger job guys, WHAT'S THIS?!?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

So I bought a Model 386 and everything is great except the crappy trigger, but that can usually be fixed. So I get the stones out and pull the guts out and find this. It is a raised bump on the part that contacts the cylinder stop! It sure explains the craptastic trigger. This may make sense to somebody, but not me. Must....contain... rage... :angry2:

never seen it but send me a PM with your address and I will send you a trigger.

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S&W trigger job guys, WHAT'S THIS?!?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

So I bought a Model 386 and everything is great except the crappy trigger, but that can usually be fixed. So I get the stones out and pull the guts out and find this. It is a raised bump on the part that contacts the cylinder stop! It sure explains the craptastic trigger. This may make sense to somebody, but not me. Must....contain... rage... :angry2:

That is normal.

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[

never seen it but send me a PM with your address and I will send you a trigger.

Tks, for the offer. Now that I know that it's not just a shim added afterthought by S&W :ph34r: to reach the cyl stop I'm going to leave it as is.

So, now that that is resolved what is your thoughts on smoothing up parts with an India stone? Are you breaking some sort of case hardening surface you should not be?

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Stoning the engagement surfaces inside the action is perfectly fine--the white ceramic stones work really well. Stay away from the single-action cocking notch and bevel if you intend to maintain the single-action capability. Otherwise you should be fine.

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I've done it so far with two of my Smiths to good results IMHO. But I still get people telling me that It isn't advisable to stone case hardened parts and MIM parts don't lend themselves to polishing very much. So I get very knowledgeable firearms experts that I respect telling me two very different things.

BTW Mike, I would like you to de-spur this When and if I find a quality thumbreak holter that accomodates that.

Edited by 20nickels
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So I get very knowledgeable firearms experts that I respect telling me two very different things.

Sounds like one of them is wrong, doesn't it? :D

Seriously, the proof is in the pudding. Over the last 20 years I've done countless action jobs on revolvers with both MIM and case-hardened parts (these days the vast majority are MIM parts), and I'm here to tell you they slick up just fine with ceramic stones. My own main competition revolver, with which I've won lots of matches and made my way to Top-3 finishes at the USPSA Revolver Nationals in 2006, 2007, and 2008, is a plain old 625 with its original MIM guts, which of course I stoned nice and smooth when I put it into competition service in late 2004.

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:lol: Yeah, I don't know what the number is, but I'm pretty sure it's greater than than 6. (I didn't go to law school because I'm good at math, y'know.)

Except when it comes to billing. :roflol::cheers:

I do know it took me .1 hours to post this reply. ;)

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Rounded up to 3 billable hours, right?

Thanks, I could think of an answer. :cheers:

PERFECT! :roflol:

That's enough Carmony bashing - for now anyway.

Let's get back to the question at hand.

Edited by RePete
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