cylinder release spring

[EEH]

I was told that for a comp gun (625) (686) (610) to be real race ready you need to be able to push the release botton whatever kind and hold gun to the left and cylinder should fall open any thoughts--shooter told me to cut spring on cylinder that holds pin in frame--IS THIS RIGHT

[Carmoney]

No. It's not right.

All the cylinder release spring does is hold the bolt in a forward position when the cylinder is swung out. It would make absolutely no difference in whether the cylinder can fall out on its own when the latch is pushed. I often cut the cylinder release spring (or even remove it and its plunger completely), but that is to prevent the bolt from pushing against the center-pin when the cylinder is closed.

None of my guns will allow the cylinder to fall open when the release is pushed. Apparently my revolvers aren't "real race ready"!

[Tom E]

I was told that for a comp gun (625) (686) (610) to be real race ready you need to be able to push the release botton whatever kind and hold gun to the left and cylinder should fall open any thoughts--shooter told me to cut spring on cylinder that holds pin in frame--IS THIS RIGHT

From yoiur description I'm not sure. The spring that is usually clipped (or the spring and plunger just left out) is in the end of the bolt, at the rear grip surface of the frame under the sideplate.

Edit: Has nothing to do with cyl release, just cyl drag.

Edited October 17, 2008 by Tom E

[Bill Sahlberg]

EEH,

There are several awesome revo-smiths around the country that can work on your gun to make it super reliable and SAFE. I have never heard of this procedure and I have shot revo competitively since 1975.

Though a gunsmith charges so that he can make a living, they also have the years of experience necessary to do the right work. Reliability and trigger jobs are @ $100 and well worh the $.

After 30 years of revo shooting, I still send ALL my guns to a gunsmith. Saving money should be done on paper targets, never smithing, bullets, or primers :-)

[EEH]

Bill

I can't even spell gunmith the spring he was talking about is inside the cylinder one that holds center pin--I know Mike takes the bolt spring, out even I have done that--I didn't this would be a good Idea---and Mike like I have said before I hav shot guns you worked on,thanks guys.I will leave mine alone Eddie

[pskys2]

I think what you're refering to is making sure the stub on the Bolt that protrudes thru the Recoil Shield is long enough to push the Center Pin out of its recess in the Recoil Shield. Thereby allowing a smoother opening of the Cylinder.

I've had broken Bolts, and a new one that needed fitting, that caused the Cylinder to open harder than it should.

The Bolt Spring and Plunger have nothing to do with that part.

I think Jerry's DVD says something about reducing the tension on the Center Pin Spring to ease it's resistance on the Cylinders rotation. But haven't heard of the drop open test. I really can't remember whether any of mine open quite that easy, maybe with a bit of shake added into the procedure they would.

The resistance is also one reason some remove the Locking Bolt and Spring. And then put in Crane Ball & Detents. I've got/had/played with both types and can't really see a lot of difference.

Edited October 17, 2008 by pskys2

[jmax]

The thumb piece generally does not freely float in it's slot in the frame and holds the bolt slightly forward adding pressure to the center pin. I remove a small amount of metal on the rear of the thumb piece where it fits in the frame until it has free movement with the cylinder closed. Now the center pin is fully in it's hole in the recoil shield (increased bearing surface minimizing egg shaped center pin holes) and there is more free movement during cylinder rotation.

[Greg Q]

The spring Eddie is talking about is small spring on the ejector rod that holds the rod end through the star and into the frame. He was given bad advice locally. It is great that we have this website and all the experienced shooters to help us so we do not screw up our guns.

Thanks guys,

Greg

Edited October 18, 2008 by Greg Q

[Tom E]

The springs that are on the ejector assy in the cylinder? Leave them alone. The spring and plunger in the bolt, trim the spring or leave them out. Make sure your cyl release will allow the bolt to come far enough back so your center pin can extend fully. Buy the Miculek video. It goes into this. Make sure your bolt comes up flush with the recoil shield when pushed forward, some factory fitted bolts don't. Sorry if this is redundant.

[Carmoney]

The springs that are on the ejector assy in the cylinder? Leave them alone. The spring and plunger in the bolt, trim the spring or leave them out. Make sure your cyl release will allow the bolt to come far enough back so your center pin can extend fully. Buy the Miculek video. It goes into this. Make sure your bolt comes up flush with the recoil shield when pushed forward, some factory fitted bolts don't. Sorry if this is redundant.

All good advice.

[earplug]

I'm a spring cutter.

I did one of my revolvers and it made reloads much easier with the stock cylinder release button.

All the bolt has to do is enter the hole in the recoil shield, harder is not better. The less spring tension might even keep the egg shape away longer.

After shooting a couple of months with this mod, I did the same to my bullseye gun. It allowed me to keep the same grip on the stocks and load with my none firing hand. I shoot that game left handed.

I could see a problem if the spring was not able to overcome pushing the bolt release.

Its just a balance of springs not unlike messing with the trigger return spring and mainspring.

[Toolguy]

If that spring is TOO light, recoil can bounce the pin out of the hole, causing the cylinder to unlatch and binding up the gun

for the next shot.

[earplug]

If that spring is TOO light, recoil can bounce the pin out of the hole, causing the cylinder to unlatch and binding up the gun

for the next shot.

While that is possible, the front ejector rod locking bolts spring plunger would help keep this from happening. There isn't much contact here with the center rod, but if recoil was going to be a issue in unlocking, this would help keep things locked up.