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Final Sizing of 45ca brass


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Hi Folks

When I do the final check with my Dillon Stainless Steel Case Gage I'm finding a fair number, ~10%, of the cases not fitting the last 1/16". Up to the last 1/16" they slide into the gage easily.

How can I impact this?

We're using the XL 650 with Redding micrometer seating die, tool head is clamped with Redding's kit, mixed head stamp brass, and montana gold 230 gr. FMJ....

Thanks in advance.

The Nordwand

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You must be getting brass that's been shot in a Glock or other service style auto like an H&K USP etc. They have pretty large chambers for reliability in feeding. The easiest way to fix this is to get an EGW/Lee U-die (undersize) resizing die. It'll get that last little bit of case and then they should case gauge fine. R,

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Inspect the case rims of the rounds that don't chamber. I have found many used .45 cases that had extractor "scars" on them that deformed the rim just enough that they would not fully seat in the Dillon case gauge as you describe.

Later,

Chuck

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A couple of questions:

Do they function in your pistol? If so, you can always keep them separate and just use them for practice. Pull the barrel and drop the offending rounds into the chamber and see if they go all the way in - you should hear a "clunk" as the case mouth hits the end of the chamber.

Is your sizer die screwed all the way down to where it just touches the shellplate? If not, this might be the cause.

The only pistols I own that have match chambers are my two 1911s, one BarSto and one GI. I don't use a case gauge, and have never had a problem with them. My S&W M22 is more picky than they are.

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The brass fired in MY USP is not ever a problem. It sizes just fine.

After you reload it, are you shooting it in your USP again or something with a tight, match chamber? USP's, Glocks and several others have rather generous chambers that normal resizing dies can't get all of. R,

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Inspect the case rims of the rounds that don't chamber. I have found many used .45 cases that had extractor "scars" on them that deformed the rim just enough that they would not fully seat in the Dillon case gauge as you describe.

Later,

Chuck

Precisely right. I've been on a 3 week project running all once-fired brass through EGW U-Dies prior to intitial reloads. The sized cases are then gauged. Now at somewhere over 10,000 cases every single one that failed to gauge was extractor burrs causing the problem. What I've found a bit odd is that most of the culprits are in .45 ACP, a few in 9MM and almost none in .40 cal. If I'd took a guess which caliber would have been in worse shape before I started the project I'd sure have missed the mark.

FWIW, I pile the "no-go's" up and hit 'em a lick with a little small hobby file (too cheap to toss 'em). Its not necessary in most cases though...the "burred" cases don't quite gauge but chamber fine in my guns.

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Inspect the case rims of the rounds that don't chamber. I have found many used .45 cases that had extractor "scars" on them that deformed the rim just enough that they would not fully seat in the Dillon case gauge as you describe.

Later,

Chuck

Precisely right. I've been on a 3 week project running all once-fired brass through EGW U-Dies prior to intitial reloads. The sized cases are then gauged. Now at somewhere over 10,000 cases every single one that failed to gauge was extractor burrs causing the problem. What I've found a bit odd is that most of the culprits are in .45 ACP, a few in 9MM and almost none in .40 cal. If I'd took a guess which caliber would have been in worse shape before I started the project I'd sure have missed the mark.

FWIW, I pile the "no-go's" up and hit 'em a lick with a little small hobby file (too cheap to toss 'em). Its not necessary in most cases though...the "burred" cases don't quite gauge but chamber fine in my guns.

I had that problem and ordered a Case Pro 100; however the Lee Die sounds like it will work. I cut down on most of my large base rounds by adjusting the Dillon sizer die down to the plate..

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Its only a big deal if your cases won't chamber in your gun's barrel. The last 1/16th to 1/32 of the brass won't contact anything in the barrel, unlike the case gauge. Those burrs on the rim will affect loading/feeding, though.

I agree that you should case gauge them, then test the BAD (no-go in the gauge) ones in your barrel (removed from the pistol of course). The no-go's that will chamber are your practice rounds, the good ones from the gauge test are your match rounds. Nobody ever gets 100% perfection from used brass, especially if it was fired from a auto with a loose chamber or has been loaded 2x or more.

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