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Dillon Powder Check on RL1050?


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I'm considering adding a powder check to my RL1050.  I know it's not a replacement for my own eyes and brain, but I'd like another safety check.  Anyone out there care to share their experiences with a powder check?  Does it work well?

Thanks,

SAB

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Powder check works fine.  I wipe the plunger off with an anti-static cleaner and I've never had any problems with powder sticking to it.

Best of all having the powder check means I don't worry about taking off that demonspawn safety bar ratchet.  I hate that thing.  It is the only thing I don't like about the 1050.

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My used 1050 came without the ratchet parts.  I called Dillon and they said "You don't really need that".  I believe Super 1050's don't even have it.  

It's supposed to make sure you fully cycle the handle every time, but is a pain if you need to fix anything.

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  • 2 years later...

Sorry to hijack this thread away from the ratchet parts and back to the powder check, but I am sold on the powder check system.

On two occasions, before I figured out what was happening, the bellcrank bolt on my powder measure worked loose, and the "bellcrank cube" (that little plastic square that moves the powder bar back and forth) came out of its slot in the powder bar. The result was that no powder was dropped in the case. I wasn't watching the powder bar, so I didn't notice that it hadn't moved.

The powder check caught the problem immediately, saving me from a long session with the bullet puller.

I strongly recommend the powder check system.

Oh, by the way: I hadn't looked too carefully at the bellcrank bolt and the bellcrank bushing. The first time the bellcrank cube came out of its slot, I just put it back in place, and tightened the bellcrank bolt and lock nut, but not too tight. I thought that bolt was threaded into the powder measure housing, and that it should be loose enough for the bellcrank to move. The lock nut would hold it in place. WRONG! The bellcrank bolt is not threaded into the powder measure housing. The lock nut should be tightened completely, and the bellcrank can still rotate on the bellcrank bushing. The second time I had a problem with the bellcrank cube, I took the whole assembly apart to see how it works. Now, I am not reluctant to cinch the lock nut down tight. No more problems.

I still like the powder check system, though. Who knows what new problems might come up?

Jim M.

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  • 4 years later...
Sorry to hijack this thread away from the ratchet parts and back to the powder check, but I am sold on the powder check system.

On two occasions, before I figured out what was happening, the bellcrank bolt on my powder measure worked loose, and the "bellcrank cube" (that little plastic square that moves the powder bar back and forth) came out of its slot in the powder bar. The result was that no powder was dropped in the case. I wasn't watching the powder bar, so I didn't notice that it hadn't moved.

The powder check caught the problem immediately, saving me from a long session with the bullet puller.

I strongly recommend the powder check system.

Oh, by the way: I hadn't looked too carefully at the bellcrank bolt and the bellcrank bushing. The first time the bellcrank cube came out of its slot, I just put it back in place, and tightened the bellcrank bolt and lock nut, but not too tight. I thought that bolt was threaded into the powder measure housing, and that it should be loose enough for the bellcrank to move. The lock nut would hold it in place. WRONG! The bellcrank bolt is not threaded into the powder measure housing. The lock nut should be tightened completely, and the bellcrank can still rotate on the bellcrank bushing. The second time I had a problem with the bellcrank cube, I took the whole assembly apart to see how it works. Now, I am not reluctant to cinch the lock nut down tight. No more problems.

I still like the powder check system, though. Who knows what new problems might come up?

Jim M.

I replaced the factory nut on the bellcrank bolt with nylon tipped lock nuts on my 650's. Problem solved!

CYa,

Pat

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  • 1 month later...

I'm considering adding a powder check to my RL1050. I know it's not a replacement for my own eyes and brain, but I'd like another safety check. Anyone out there care to share their experiences with a powder check? Does it work well?

Thanks,

SAB

I just acquired a very old 1050 (nickel plated toolhead) and wanted to install the powder checker, read the manual but no mention about it, i've used the powder checker on my 650s and figured out a bracket/standoff to make it work. after a week i finally called dillon and they said to use a washer at the end of the rod, as the washer will contact the shellplate and actuate the powder checker. I was kind of leary of using the washer method, so i'm keeping my bracket/standoff method.

the powder checker as a whole works like a champ, and also it gives you peace of mind.

Hope this helps

(i'll post pics once i figure out how to do it)

Edited by abcd
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My used 1050 came without the ratchet parts.  I called Dillon and they said "You don't really need that".  I believe Super 1050's don't even have it.  

It's supposed to make sure you fully cycle the handle every time, but is a pain if you need to fix anything.

My Super 1050 that was shipped November 2009 came with the ratchet restriction tab. I took it off after breaking 3 of them within a week and my blood pressure went down considerably.

I understand and appreciate the thought process behind the design engineer that was thinking about safety, but if you can't remember if you just charged a case, etc while loading ammunition you have no business near a reloading press. Pay attention to what you are doing. Unfortunately engineers have to compensate for idiots.

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