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New Limited, 1st Impression and Questions


bobobooie

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:surprise: Holy crap, what an awesome handgun!

I picked it up on Friday. Cleaned it out and lubed it up and headed to the range this morning. Put the 10# recoil spring in, Hennings x-long firing pin and fired 300 rds through it.

The grip shape had to been patterned with my hand in mind. It just flat feels better than any handgun I have ever held. The controls are where I would want them and of the proper size and configuration. After shooting it I am so tempted to ignore single stack for the rest of the year and get going in Limited. I was shooting Precision Delta 180s with TG at 1.16 OAL. It ran them like a sewing machine. They are my SS load and I'll play around later on with other combinations.

Questions.

The 21 rd mags (Henning mags) that I purchased will not drop free and are hard to seat. I did a search on this forum and looked for a part of the mag release that protrudes into the frame in order to file it down. I can't find it. I looked for the burrs or tabs on the mag well that extend into the frame also. I can't for the life of me find it. What I did see is near the top of the frame just below the trigger bar where there is a small lip above the frames magazine opening. Is this it? Can someone please point me to where I should be looking?

On 3 of the 4- 21rd mags I was only able to seat 18 rds. The 4th let me get to 20, but nose dived the top round when seated from slide lock. At 19 rds it worked just fine. Should I leave the mags alone for now and let the springs take a seat? I watched Hennings video on loading the mags with a little bang here and there in order to position the rounds and spring. Maybe I did it wrong and will try again. Hoping that you can save me some frustration.

The last question is about the small cuts in the frame that extend from the mag catch hole (on either side) into the mag area of the frame. The grips cover this slot. Is this supposed to be there?

thank you very much,

Paul

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Are the mags not dropping free just when they are empty? Mine wouldn't sometimes with the Henning mags until I put the EGW slide stop in. Work perfect now. The other thing I would look at is to see if for some reason the basepad of the mag is hitting the frame. This happened on my CZ. I could get the mag to seat with a, uh, vigorous insertion but then the mag was wedged in and wouldn't drop.

The cuts in the frame are supposed to be there.

Great gun, glad you enjoy yours.

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Are the mags not dropping free just when they are empty? Mine wouldn't sometimes with the Henning mags until I put the EGW slide stop in. Work perfect now. The other thing I would look at is to see if for some reason the basepad of the mag is hitting the frame. This happened on my CZ. I could get the mag to seat with a, uh, vigorous insertion but then the mag was wedged in and wouldn't drop.

The cuts in the frame are supposed to be there.

Great gun, glad you enjoy yours

Thanks Neomet. The mags are scraping something but will lock into place. It seems to be up toward the mag catch or higher. The stock mag does it too, but not as bad. The stock mag drops free when the release is pushed. The new 21 rounders do not. All four of them.They drop a half inch or so and I yank them out like I used to do to a Glock. The rubbing occurrs before the mag pad even comes close to the frame. This is with empty or full mags. Not too concerned about it yet, just hoping to see if anyone might have a similiar experience and was able to fix it. The EGW slide stop is on the list of must have items. Thanks again.

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Try this:

Take off the top end and watch as you insert the mag and slowly remove it to see if you can spot where it is dragging. If not, use a black magic marker on the mag tube and run the mag in and out of the gun a few times to see where it marks. You can just wash the stuff off later with brake cleaner. Also, you can try removing the mag catch ans inserting the mags to see if they are dragging on that.

Good luck.

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I assume the gun is a .40? Sounds like it is.

Anyway, I got one of Hennings extended mags for my Elite Match in .40.

The mag tube is a 10mm. This means that the dimensions are maxed out front to back and makes the tolerances very tight in the mag catch area.

The reason for the 10mm tube is that some .40 mags come with a spacer and some do not, whereas 10mm mags come just one way. the 10mm mags also allow you to load out longer (as do the "non-spacer" .40 mags), but I digress.

When I got the mag from Henning, it was tight to push in and would not drop free. Got on the phone to Henning before I started cutting anything. Here is what you want to do;

Take the slide off the gun and remove the grip panels so you can see what you are doing.

Look through the bottom of the mag well and press the mag catch in. You will see a small pice of the mag catch that is not flush with the frame. That tiny piece that is sticking out is what is causing the friction and grabbing on the mag.

If you have a dremmel, you can vey carefully grind away at the corner that sticks out. Go slow! Check for fit frequently. You don't have to remove much - just make the entire mag catch, WHEN DEPRESSED flush with the inside of the frame.

You will find that once you start, the mag will get looser and easier to remove from the gun, until eventually, it will drop free like the rest of your mags.

Hope that helps.

Mick

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You don't say if you have Henning's grips or not. If you have the factory grips then try taking them off and see if the mags drop freely. Some of the Tanfoglio grips extended into the area where the mag sits and this can cause binding which prevents the mags from dropping free. Use a sharpie to mark inside the grips and this will indicate where it is sticking then attack that with a file.

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I assume the gun is a .40? Sounds like it is.

Anyway, I got one of Hennings extended mags for my Elite Match in .40.

The mag tube is a 10mm. This means that the dimensions are maxed out front to back and makes the tolerances very tight in the mag catch area.

The reason for the 10mm tube is that some .40 mags come with a spacer and some do not, whereas 10mm mags come just one way. the 10mm mags also allow you to load out longer (as do the "non-spacer" .40 mags), but I digress.

When I got the mag from Henning, it was tight to push in and would not drop free. Got on the phone to Henning before I started cutting anything. Here is what you want to do;

Take the slide off the gun and remove the grip panels so you can see what you are doing.

Look through the bottom of the mag well and press the mag catch in. You will see a small pice of the mag catch that is not flush with the frame. That tiny piece that is sticking out is what is causing the friction and grabbing on the mag.

If you have a dremmel, you can vey carefully grind away at the corner that sticks out. Go slow! Check for fit frequently. You don't have to remove much - just make the entire mag catch, WHEN DEPRESSED flush with the inside of the frame.

You will find that once you start, the mag will get looser and easier to remove from the gun, until eventually, it will drop free like the rest of your mags.

Hope that helps.

Yes, it's a .40. The factory mag is a .40 without the spacer. The factory mag came with the aluminum mag pad, but was switched to Grams guts and the Henning 140 pad. That mag and all 4 Henning mags are tight to push in. Only the factory mag drops free. I'm gonna take the top end off and the grips and check it out again. I did push in the mag release and through the mag opening I could not see any part of it that stuck out. I'll try again and use a marker.

The only thing that caught my eye earlier was a small step in the upper portion of the frame's mag opening, just below the trigger bar. There is a line of casting there.

The grips are the factory wood grips. Thanks all for the responses. If I find it I'll post the cure here. Thanks again.

Paul

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I did push in the mag release and through the mag opening I could not see any part of it that stuck out. I'll try again and use a marker.

The only thing that caught my eye earlier was a small step in the upper portion of the frame's mag opening, just below the trigger bar. There is a line of casting there.

The grips are the factory wood grips. Thanks all for the responses. If I find it I'll post the cure here. Thanks again.

Paul

If you remove the mag release entirely, will the mags still stick?

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I did push in the mag release and through the mag opening I could not see any part of it that stuck out. I'll try again and use a marker.

The only thing that caught my eye earlier was a small step in the upper portion of the frame's mag opening, just below the trigger bar. There is a line of casting there.

The grips are the factory wood grips. Thanks all for the responses. If I find it I'll post the cure here. Thanks again.

Paul

If you remove the mag release entirely, will the mags still stick?

Dunno. That might prove to be a smart move. Gonna mark things up and see what shows scraping first.

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"On 3 of the 4- 21rd mags I was only able to seat 18 rds. The 4th let me get to 20, but nose dived the top round when seated from slide lock. At 19 rds it worked just fine. Should I leave the mags alone for now and let the springs take a seat? I watched Hennings video on loading the mags with a little bang here and there in order to position the rounds and spring. Maybe I did it wrong and will try again. Hoping that you can save me some frustration."

I think the spring will take a while to set for you to be able to get 21. I find it hard to get 20 in sometimes. That is when I break the mag down and run a silicon brush through it. seems to help.

Also are you reloading or use factory ammo? If reloading are you using the egw undersized sizing die. I know the "glock bulge" had caused a problem with my rounds.

Matt

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"On 3 of the 4- 21rd mags I was only able to seat 18 rds. The 4th let me get to 20, but nose dived the top round when seated from slide lock. At 19 rds it worked just fine. Should I leave the mags alone for now and let the springs take a seat? I watched Hennings video on loading the mags with a little bang here and there in order to position the rounds and spring. Maybe I did it wrong and will try again. Hoping that you can save me some frustration."

I think the spring will take a while to set for you to be able to get 21. I find it hard to get 20 in sometimes. That is when I break the mag down and run a silicon brush through it. seems to help.

Also are you reloading or use factory ammo? If reloading are you using the egw undersized sizing die. I know the "glock bulge" had caused a problem with my rounds.

Matt

Got it today! Got in 20rds in all 4 and no problems feeding. I did take apart all the mags and cleaned them out. I do use the EGW sizing die on my RL550 and am very happy with it. A little harder tap starting with #10 and each round thereafter, seemed to do the trick for me.

I removed a small portion of the magazine catch that extends into the frame well and put a radius on it. Once I could see where the mags were getting contact, it made it easy. All mags drop free now, empty or full, and they are much easier to seat. I polished the heck out of it also. I'm happy with it.

Another 250 rds through it. That includes 100 rds of 175 SWC lead. It ate them up! I love this gun. I did install Hennings x-long firing pin and removed the firing pin safety.

Thanks all for the words of advice. I am indeed a happy camper. Now the search for a holster...

Paul

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I am also new to the EAA family. The only holsters, so far, i have used are the cr speed wsII, and blade tech. The cr needs quite a lot of modifications. The blade tech works great right out of the box. Its nice to know that the gun is not going to jump out of the holster. The cr speed also works well, but like i said a lot of modification is needed.

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"

Thanks all for the words of advice. I am indeed a happy camper. Now the search for a holster...

Paul

I have an old-school Safarailand holster I'll sell you for just a little more than a song if your interested. PM me your e-mail address and I'll send you pics

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Henning has been running a Blade-Tech or a G-Code at the nationals. You could check those out.

Leo

Thanks Leo. I'll most likely go the Blade tech route. I used one for L10 and now SS and like them a lot. I do like the supported muzzle end of the CR in a more racey type of holster. The Sickinger speed holster looks interesting as well, but so far I don't know where to get one to check out. The main thing is the gun and the mags are all good. I do not mean to drift into holsters, but do appreciate all the info I have received on both my questions and now holsters.

Paul

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