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Titanium vs. stainless firing pin


Puma

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I have heard that titanium firing pins (striker) tend to break. And I have heard that stainless steel firing pins (glockworx) are just as light but more durable. Please share your opinions on above matter.

My goal is to enhance trigger pull and not sacrifice durability too much.

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Same reply I provided on your earlier "striker" post. ;)

Jim

I am sorry but I remain confused. And I guess that it was a stupid question. But being new to the sport I needed direction. I understand that if you lighten the spring the result will be lighter strikes. But what I meant to ask is # 1 If a titanium striker with a lighter spring OK only with factory loads?

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My take is that I need the gun to run --- first, last, and always. I want to reduce chances of equipment failure as much as possible, and I've adjusted the gun, press, gear, and ammo accordingly. I'm very conservative with changing any of those things --- I loaded the same heads and powder for about five years before being willing to experiment with other choices.

The stock striker and spring work --- polish up the stock parts, maybe throw in a Lightning Strike Striker Safety plunger and (reduced in their kit) spring, lube up with some slide glide, and call it a day. Then practice, practice, practice.....

If you absolutely must have a lighter trigger than that will produce, call Vanek or S&J --- they've likely solved the problem for you, and it likely will be cheaper in the long run....

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If you absolutely must have a lighter trigger than that will produce, call Vanek or S&J --- they've likely solved the problem for you, and it likely will be cheaper in the long run....

Cheaper? That is a arguable. But certainly not nearly as fun and educational as doing it yourself. By following Joe4D's threads I've gotten to a very nice reliable production legal trigger that is sub 3lb. I enjoyed every bit of the process too. And I do not think I spent more than total of $150 in doing the triggers for three different guns.

Slav

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If you absolutely must have a lighter trigger than that will produce, call Vanek or S&J --- they've likely solved the problem for you, and it likely will be cheaper in the long run....

Cheaper? That is a arguable. But certainly not nearly as fun and educational as doing it yourself. By following Joe4D's threads I've gotten to a very nice reliable production legal trigger that is sub 3lb. I enjoyed every bit of the process too. And I do not think I spent more than total of $150 in doing the triggers for three different guns.

Slav

Before I moved I had a box of wrecked parts ---- but then I'm not extraordinarily handy.....

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Before I moved I had a box of wrecked parts ---- but then I'm not extraordinarily handy.....

I destroyed one trigger bar completely and have another one that works, but I do not like the feel of it (I may actually be able to salvage it). Thats about $20-$25 for experimentation. But everyone has their own thing. I know a lot of people who like to work on their cars and I am totally opposed to the idea - aside from topping off windshield fluid on occasion.

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Stock, stock, stock, stock, stock!!!!

Seriously. Keep the striker stock!

+1

Polish, put in a connector of your choice, get a steel guiderod and a recoil spring that works with your load. Then just shoot.

Good luck.

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i never had more trouble out of my guns than when i put non stock parts in them

Ill only change the barrel, sights and do a very mild trigger job now..

my glock part box looks like an auto grave yard. i have guide rods, pins, mag wells, connectors, trigger bars, and stikers of experiments that either went wrong or yielded no better results than factory.

harmon

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