Josh Biondi Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 Well guys here my qestion: in the attached pic you can see on the left a sear spring with the legs cut and on the right a sear spring without the legs cut... so my Hamlet-like dilemma is how to cut it without make lose the flexibility to the spring. I trought to cut with a dremel but it will heat the iron on so it will lose its elasticity.... what do you think guys?????? Do exist a jig to do this job? Any (smart) suggestion will be appreciate!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 The safest way would be to clamp both leaves down on a block, firmly, at both ends. You can then mill the spring with a carbide end mill. If you know someone with a wire EDM machine, that would be the hot setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 Wouldn't be cheaper, in the long run, to buy another spring? You might pay someone to mill it etc, and end up with a spring with less temper. Now you're out the cost of the spring and the milling, and possibly a competition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 Wouldn't be cheaper, in the long run, to buy another spring?You might pay someone to mill it etc, and end up with a spring with less temper. Now you're out the cost of the spring and the milling, and possibly a competition. Cheaper yes, but, he's in Italy. Brownell's is a bit longer shipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 I wouldn't think that the sear spring is a major part and as such it shouldn't be that hard to get. They cost less than $20 from every source I know of here, thinking of that vs cutting one I would just buy one. Milling it like Dan suggests is probably the simplest though you will have to make a jig to hold it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 Wouldn't be cheaper, in the long run, to buy another spring?You might pay someone to mill it etc, and end up with a spring with less temper. Now you're out the cost of the spring and the milling, and possibly a competition. Cheaper yes, but, he's in Italy. Brownell's is a bit longer shipping. Granted, I didn't see Italy, but you would have to pay to have the jig made. So, Jig - $100 (not unreasonable). Milling time - $30-$50. FU'd spring - $20 New spring now costs - $170 using the $30 mill time. What about the time frame for a machinist? That could take a week to a month, depending how busy they are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Biondi Posted April 10, 2008 Author Share Posted April 10, 2008 I wouldn't think that the sear spring is a major part and as such it shouldn't be that hard to get. They cost less than $20 from every source I know of here, thinking of that vs cutting one I would just buy one. Milling it like Dan suggests is probably the simplest though you will have to make a jig to hold it. Yes.... to buy one is the way easier but if you look at Brownells sear spring like Clarks has the legs thick and needs to be reduced like the spring on the left....... so its a necessity to cut the sear leg to adapt it to necessity.... its difficult to find someone with an EDM machine here....... so carbride mill end and water to refresh the iron? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 I wouldn't think that the sear spring is a major part and as such it shouldn't be that hard to get. They cost less than $20 from every source I know of here, thinking of that vs cutting one I would just buy one. Milling it like Dan suggests is probably the simplest though you will have to make a jig to hold it. Yes.... to buy one is the way easier but if you look at Brownells sear spring like Clarks has the legs thick and needs to be reduced like the spring on the left....... so its a necessity to cut the sear leg to adapt it to necessity.... its difficult to find someone with an EDM machine here....... so carbride mill end and water to refresh the iron? Using a carbide end mill shouldn't soften it, or harden it further. I've been using the Nowlin spring which is cut that way, rather than the Clark, which has the center leaf split. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve J Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 (edited) edited to add: Sorry, I just checked and they won't ship outside the U.S. This is what you want. A light pull sear spring from C&S. (cylinder-slide.com) $6.95 Edited April 10, 2008 by Steve J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Biondi Posted April 10, 2008 Author Share Posted April 10, 2008 This is what you want. A light pull sear spring from C&S. (cylinder-slide.com) $6.95 Thanks Steve for the imput ......... but im usual to customize by myself the spring. Plus if you buy a Edge you can see that the recent production has the sear sping like the sear on the right my pic. So if you wanna customize the gun without buy a new one sear spring you must cut the original..... more over as i told previously if you use Clarks sear spring you must cut it. So the solution is not to buy another sear spring but to be able to cut the first one...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
want2race Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 shootersconnection.com has them and ships intl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 I use the EGW sear spring from Shooters Connection, it is already cut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Biondi Posted April 11, 2008 Author Share Posted April 11, 2008 As I wrote previously you can see in the attached pics in the first the original CLARK sear spring and in the second the same sear spring customize by a gunsmith.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demax Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 As I wrote previously you can see in the attached pics in the first the original CLARK sear spring and in the second the same sear spring customize by a gunsmith.... Josh, I highly recommend you to do not play with sear leaf because if this leaf will be too soft your pistol will begin to shoot in full auto mode... I had same situation during local match last year and trust me, it was no funny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Biondi Posted April 11, 2008 Author Share Posted April 11, 2008 (edited) As I wrote previously you can see in the attached pics in the first the original CLARK sear spring and in the second the same sear spring customize by a gunsmith.... Josh, I highly recommend you to do not play with sear leaf because if this leaf will be too soft your pistol will begin to shoot in full auto mode... I had same situation during local match last year and trust me, it was no funny Demax thanks for the input... but im a overseas auto learning gunsmith and so i know what to do and why to do it.... I have in my Edge a trigger pull weight of 1,1 pound safe reliabe and crisp... and usually i customize about 5/8 guns for guys that shoots usually in the Italian championship and all this guys are really satisfied of my work. Plus i work with one of the most important italian guns press like tester.... my question is born from the necessity to increase my knowhow..... however thanks for the warning again because i also have experimented some years ago what WONDERFUL sensation is to have a 40S&W full auto in the hands.... Edited April 11, 2008 by Josh Biondi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radical Precision Designs Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Josh- Since you obviously do not intend to go on full production manufacturing of these flat springs, but only intend to do a few ... try your handy "Dremel" tool. Clearly mark the area you intend to remove. A common felt tip marker will do. Place your your sear flat and firm in a small vise, exposing completely the area you want removed. Install in your Dremel (or other rotary tool) a small, very sharp "carbide" cutter. You can find them at some dental specialty shops or automotive performance tooling shops (used for shaping ports in engines). Use at slower speeds or at a speed where the cutter will "bite" best. Remove material slowly until the area marked has been removed. Turn the part around to do the other side, marked as before. Finish dressing the part with a small fine needle file, and you got it. Don't forget to reshape the leaf, as very possibly the clamping on the vise took away some of its previous shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Biondi Posted April 14, 2008 Author Share Posted April 14, 2008 Thanks to all for the imput..... I have find a mechanical cutter with "soft cutter disk", so i will try it. My second way will be a Dremel as Radical Precision counsels me.... josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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