bountyhunter Posted January 3, 2008 Share Posted January 3, 2008 I've been modifying a stock trigger bar per Joe D's thread and am mostly happy with the results... but, I still have not moved the location of the hole the trigger spring hooks to. I understand most people drill a hole higher up and trim off the bottom of the bar it hooks to. Exactly what does that do? Lighter pull, shorter reset, what? I also have the Sotelo trigger setup with the hole higher up, and it has a lighter pull overall but a spongier takeup and more creep. The one I made by moving the trigger pivot point has a sharper break, but slightly heavier (about 2.8# versus 2.2#). I like the sharp break feel better. Does moving the spring hole make the break less sharp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atmar Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 it gave me a lighter pull.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 Locating the hole higher up gives a similar result as keeping the hole where is is and bending the that tab forward (you don't get the reduction in pre-travel, just the same feel) Bending the tab, stretches the spring more. (I don't know if that could be a negative towards reliability). Locating the hole higher gives the spring better leverage (Likely less stress on the spring) Locating the hole higher changes he angle of pull. Do too much "stuff" and you might not get reliable resets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmart Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 Locating the hole higher up gives a similar result as keeping the hole where is is and bending the that tab forward (you don't get the reduction in pre-travel, just the same feel)Bending the tab, stretches the spring more. (I don't know if that could be a negative towards reliability). Locating the hole higher gives the spring better leverage (Likely less stress on the spring) Locating the hole higher changes he angle of pull. Do too much "stuff" and you might not get reliable resets. Why do these mods affect trigger reset? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe D Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 I have never seen any benefit to changing the hole location. You can get a 1 lb trigger using the stock hole location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 I have never seen any benefit to changing the hole location. You can get a 1 lb trigger using the stock hole location. - You don't get a lighter pull than stock? - You don't consider a lighter pull a benefit? - You prefer to do it a different way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe D Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 Why do I need to change the hole location if I can get a 1 lb pull with it in the stock location? Maybe my trigger scale is defective but when I did change the location once there was little if any change in pull weight. Not worth the effort IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Moneypenny Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 Joe, I'm sure everyone would love to know how you do it. Moving the hole is generally the easiest method that will effect reliability the least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe D Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 I have a sack full of stock trigger bars. I will take a stock bar and see what the pull is, then relocate the hole and measure again. The only thing I see that relocating the hole will do is put a little more tension on the spring. Bending the tab forward does the same thing AND allows you to remove some of the pre travel. I will post results tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sslav Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 (edited) Joe, I'm sure everyone would love to know how you do it. I believe he has posted a number of tips on the subject. I have followed them and am very happy with my trigger. I do not know if it is 1lb as I do not have a guage to measure it. But it has a very light and fairly crisp pull (for a Glock) with a nice short and firm re-set. Moving the hole is generally the easiest method that will effect reliability the least. I think bending the tab forward is easier and quicker than moving the hole. Slav Edited January 4, 2008 by sslav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted January 4, 2008 Author Share Posted January 4, 2008 I have a sack full of stock trigger bars. I will take a stock bar and see what the pull is, then relocate the hole and measure again. The only thing I see that relocating the hole will do is put a little more tension on the spring. Bending the tab forward does the same thing AND allows you to remove some of the pre travel.I will post results tonight. The reason I ask: That spring has to provide some UP pull on the end of the bar so that when the slide bumps the ear of the disconnector the end of the trigger bar will pop up. As you move the hole upwards, it makes the plane of the spring's pull more horizontal to the bar which reduces the amount of the UP vector component of the spring force. I was thinking it might not reliably reset to the up position which would mean the slide would go back to battery but the striker foot would be in front of the trigger bar tab (so it obviously would not fire). If it is just a matter of increasing the spring's pull, I can dial that very easily by snipping off 1/2 turn and forming a new end with the end coil. I can also "stretch" the end loops to make the spirng force go up or down slightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted January 4, 2008 Author Share Posted January 4, 2008 Joe, I'm sure everyone would love to know how you do it. Joe was kind enough to post a thread explaining how he does it, which is what motivated me to start modifying a trigger bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted January 4, 2008 Author Share Posted January 4, 2008 I think bending the tab forward is easier and quicker than moving the hole.Slav Except that the trigger bar is REALLY hard steel and I have no doubt it will break if not heated to bend... and the heating will remove some of the hardness.My point is that if the objective is just to increase the spring force, I can do that a lot easier by tweaking the spring itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted January 4, 2008 Author Share Posted January 4, 2008 Why do I need to change the hole location if I can get a 1 lb pull with it in the stock location? Maybe my trigger scale is defective but when I did change the location once there was little if any change in pull weight. Not worth the effort IMO. Ahhh... if only I had known that before I broke those drill bits trying to drill that new hole.... BTW, I agree. I don't see what moving the hole will do that can't be done by simply increasing the spring strength. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 That spring has to provide some UP pull on the end of the bar so that when the slide bumps the ear of the disconnector the end of the trigger bar will pop up. As you move the hole upwards, it makes the plane of the spring's pull more horizontal to the bar which reduces the amount of the UP vector component of the spring force. I was thinking it might not reliably reset to the up position which would mean the slide would go back to battery but the striker foot would be in front of the trigger bar tab (so it obviously would not fire). You are correct, and that is the risk I spoke of. I don't suggest it if a gun is already running a reduced power striker spring and a heavier trigger return spring. If it is just a matter of increasing the spring's pull, I can dial that very easily by snipping off 1/2 turn and forming a new end with the end coil. I can also "stretch" the end loops to make the spirng force go up or down slightly. It is. And, you've posted another way to skin that same cat. My thinking there is..."what puts less stress on the trigger return spring"? That spring is, likely, the weakest link in the Glock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted January 5, 2008 Author Share Posted January 5, 2008 It is. And, you've posted another way to skin that same cat. My thinking there is..."what puts less stress on the trigger return spring"? That spring is, likely, the weakest link in the Glock. Yep, that's what I keep hearing... but, I am known as the Spring Whisperer. I haven't broken any yet and I clip and bend them shamelessly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 I am known as the Spring Whisperer. LOL...I like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atmar Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 (edited) joe's technique hits 2 birds w/ one stone.... relocating the hole hits just one bird.... its your choice..... question is are you good enough of a tinkerer to hit 2 birds w/ one stone? Edited January 5, 2008 by atmar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe D Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 (edited) I don't recall if I posted this but here's how I bend the tab. You must heat the bend first with a torch then pry out with a screwdriver. Edited January 6, 2008 by Joe D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted January 6, 2008 Author Share Posted January 6, 2008 (edited) joe's technique hits 2 birds w/ one stone....relocating the hole hits just one bird.... its your choice..... question is are you good enough of a tinkerer to hit 2 birds w/ one stone? No, I kill my birds one at a time. I don't have a torch, and my panavise has plastic jaws. So, I dial the trigger spring in by adjusting the spring and take up the pretravel by adding a small pad in front of the trigger bar. I always prefer changing one thing at a time. Edited January 6, 2008 by bountyhunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Nesbitt Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 I have a G-17. I put in one of the drop in kits with the moved spring hole. Nice trigger. 2 1/4#. But the trigger safety wouldn't reliably set. I just reinstalled the stock trigger and now the pull is 2 1/2# and the trigger safety works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sr20ve Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 (edited) I have a G-17. I put in one of the drop in kits with the moved spring hole. Nice trigger. 2 1/4#. But the trigger safety wouldn't reliably set. I just reinstalled the stock trigger and now the pull is 2 1/2# and the trigger safety works great. Tell us more about your stock trigger? Edited January 7, 2008 by 98sr20ve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Nesbitt Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 I have a G-17. I put in one of the drop in kits with the moved spring hole. Nice trigger. 2 1/4#. But the trigger safety wouldn't reliably set. I just reinstalled the stock trigger and now the pull is 2 1/2# and the trigger safety works great. Tell us more about your stock trigger? It's just a stock trigger assembly that had been in the gun before. It had been polished in the past. I left all the other polished parts from the drop in kit in the gun. So it is a 3rd gen G-17 with a polish job, 3 1/2# connector and a reduced power striker spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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