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Slide Glide (Lite) on Open Gun


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I was reading the "this stuff works" section that people sent in, yet I’m still skeptical about this stuff. Early on I used to use some Wilson Combat grease on my 45 and found nothing but problems in cold weather, I tried other brands of lube over the years only to find I would end up with a jam because they collected so much junk from the gun being fired and or being cold also. Finally I bought a bottle of “Rem Oil” and I have used it for years with out one failure. But that stuff is really thin, it claims to have “Teflon” in it but I’m not sure what good that would do. The gun is never dry at the end of a match and if I feel it needs a little oil for peace of mind I find a safety area and oil it.

I guess my question is am I shortening the life of my Open gun by using a very thin oil like this, should I change oils to something like slide glide because it will really honestly “Soften the recoil”? or should continue to use Rem Oil simply because it never has failed me, ever on one of my guns?

CM

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Slide glide does work in Open guns but I love the new Brownells Friction Defense teflon, molly, slickery oil with a little slide glide in it to thicken just a bit.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...EANING+PRODUCTS

Med. grade SG slathered in my limited gun works great, but the 8lb spring open gun likes a little more slick and has no need to soften like the 12lb. sprung limited gun.

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Slide Glide flat WORKS. It stays where you put it, and keeps the gun slick as can be. It suspends all the fouling, that will be obvious when you clean the gun with just a paper towel as no solvents are needed. The gun will run longer between cleanings too because all the fouling is suspended and the grease stays where it is needed.

It doesn't work for me in really tight guns in cold weather but my guns are really tight, when it gets below about 50 I start adding some FP10 or Mobil 1. Below about 40 I clean the grease out and run oil only.

Your RemOil is really poor stuff. It doesn't stay where you put it and I don't buy that the teflon stays and takes care of the lubrication. After a couple stages the gun will be running without lubrication and that is bad. If you like oil that is OK too, just get a good oil like FP10 or Mobil 1.

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People use motor oil, is synthetic better than regular? I'll buy the hype I guess and try some slide glide, I just can't see changing what works. I can't count the number of times I see others guns puke due to ill lubricated mags or guns, at a D or C level, (maybe even B for that matter) you can afford a few hiccups but when you're A or higher it just flat has to run.

CM

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People use motor oil, is synthetic better than regular? I'll buy the hype I guess and try some slide glide, I just can't see changing what works. I can't count the number of times I see others guns puke due to ill lubricated mags or guns, at a D or C level, (maybe even B for that matter) you can afford a few hiccups but when you're A or higher it just flat has to run.

CM

I use SG when it's hot and Mobil 5W-30 synthetic when it's cold.

Edited by JThompson
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at a D or C level, (maybe even B for that matter) you can afford a few hiccups but when you're A or higher it just flat has to run.

CM

Could not agree with you less. I am a C class shooter, I don't shoot well enough to overcome a gun malfunction, and as a C shooter it's bad enough that I have to fight brain malfunctions. The worse/slower you shoot the more a malfunction hurts you.

If a gun is not reliable, fix it or get rid of it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Find the combination that works, carve it in stone, then if you have to experiment you can always go back to what works. When a formerly reliable gun malfunctions my first question is "What did you change?".

Just my .02.

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