Dillon 650 For a newbie?

[Paul Burtchell]

Ok, I've read the forums upside down and backwards and I know conventional wisdom says go with the 550 since this is my first progressive but has anyone out there started out with a 650 and what kind of experience did you have?

I will be loading approx. 2000 rounds a month of 9mm and 1000-1500 of 45acp.

Any advice before the plunge?

[Matt Griffin]

I started with a 650, I wanted the casefeeder and the autoindex.

Most complaints center around the priming system. FWIW, I haven't had any trouble with mine. I did have to adjust the index after switched to .45 from .40, but once I did that it became 100% reliable again.

Technique plays a large part in your experience. It will be overwhelming and seem like a bad buy at first, until you learn how to manipulate it properly. Now that I've got the hang of it, I can walk up, disable the primer mechanism and check the powder drop, re-enable the primer system, check OAL on the first few rounds out, and then comfortably load 300 rounds on my lunch break. When I'm really going, I knock out 500-600 rounds an hour. I couldn't imagine loading cases by hand or indexing the shellplate, with the 650 I get to concentrate on examining the case and charge before seating, and on the priming stroke, to make sure I ease the primer into the pocket, then shove it fully home. My ammo is barely less than 100%, I can recall one flipped primer in the last 2-3k rounds. Everything goes bang, never squibbed, never double charged.

H.

[Wandering Man]

I started reloading with the 650, and have had no problems with it (other than standard learning curve stuff). A freind advised against starting with the 550 because of the manual indexing. He said many of the problems with blown up guns he had seen were due to double charges. The automatic indexing of the 650 or square deal should prevent that.

So far I've had no double charges.

So far I am very happy with the 650. And I don't feel the pressure to get better so I can upgrade from a 550 (a lot of folks tell you "you can always sell and upgrade").

Good luck.

WM

[amlevin]

Go with the 650 and Case Feeder. You won't always be a beginner.

Edited September 6, 2007 by amlevin

[Carlos]

I have set up 5 Dillon XL-650s for friends who were complete beginners. I asked all 5 to first get a cheap lee single stage to learn the basics, and all 5 ignored my advice & went straight to the 650.

BUT, that being said, all 5 are doing fine. The 650 is a very safe press, IMHO, since it has an auto-advance shelplate and can be equiped with a powder check system. I set up all 4 with: EGW/Lee "U" dies and FCD dies along with safe powder/bullet combinations and I supervised their first reloads to make sure they followed best practices for safety.

Its OK to start with a 650, but please consult an experienced Dillon operator if you can. Of course, the best place to start is to call Brian (he has the best price anyway so why not order from him?) and have him include the Dillon video on reloading for competition.

Edited September 6, 2007 by Carlos

[Matt P.]

I started with a 550, and rapidly outgrew it. I tried a friends super 1050 and now I am on the dark side!

The 650 is a great machine .

[yoshidaex]

You'll be fine with the 650. Just take it slow and easy at first. Before you know it you'll be blazing along like a veteran.

[SA Friday]

I have set up 5 Dillon XL-650s for friends who were complete beginners. I asked all 5 to first get a cheap lee single stage to learn the basics, and all 5 ignored my advice & went straight to the 650.

BUT, that being said, all 5 are doing fine. The 650 is a very safe press, IMHO, since it has an auto-advance shelplate and can be equiped with a powder check system. I set up all 4 with: EGW/Lee "U" dies and FCD dies along with safe powder/bullet combinations and I supervised their first reloads to make sure they followed best practices for safety.

Its OK to start with a 650, but please consult an experienced Dillon operator if you can. Of course, the best place to start is to call Brian (he has the best price anyway so why not order from him?) and have him include the Dillon video on reloading for competition.

Best advice so far, get a mentor and the 650.

[newshooter]

i went with the 650 for my 1st press. glad i did just take it slow at first every thing will come together real quick! +1 for the case feeder i got that later on boy what a difference!

[Paul Burtchell]

Thanks for everyones encouragement on the 650. I am definitely ordering from Brian. These forums have been a tremendous help to me since I started shooting again a few months ago after a 12 year hiatus. I'll take the plunge and go with the 650 and not look back.

[ChessRatz]

Thanks for everyones encouragement on the 650. I am definitely ordering from Brian. These forums have been a tremendous help to me since I started shooting again a few months ago after a 12 year hiatus. I'll take the plunge and go with the 650 and not look back.

Your making the right decision. Make sure to get the powder check. It takes the overcharge/undercharge possibility out of the reloading equation. I am very new to reloading and just set up my 650. The powder check was important because I have seen what happens when you undercharge. The auto indexing along with the powder check makes it very safe for us reloading noobs.

If you got the cash, get the casefeeder as well. It makes reloading even easier. It will require a bit of patience while you set up (getting OAL, powder dialed in, crimp, etc.). Once you've done a few hundred rounds, you will get comfortable and really get into a rhythm. Then away you go...

Have fun, be safe and enjoy that 650!

[Paul Burtchell]

Thanks for everyones encouragement on the 650. I am definitely ordering from Brian. These forums have been a tremendous help to me since I started shooting again a few months ago after a 12 year hiatus. I'll take the plunge and go with the 650 and not look back.

Your making the right decision. Make sure to get the powder check. It takes the overcharge/undercharge possibility out of the reloading equation. I am very new to reloading and just set up my 650. The powder check was important because I have seen what happens when you undercharge. The auto indexing along with the powder check makes it very safe for us reloading noobs.

If you got the cash, get the casefeeder as well. It makes reloading even easier. It will require a bit of patience while you set up (getting OAL, powder dialed in, crimp, etc.). Once you've done a few hundred rounds, you will get comfortable and really get into a rhythm. Then away you go...

Have fun, be safe and enjoy that 650!

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I'll definitely get both the powder check and case feeder.

[Matt Griffin]

I loaded about 3k rounds of .45 without the casefeeder, and let me say that it is an essential. With the autoadvance, you'll constantly forget to keep up with the cases in the tube, get in to a groove, and have skipped stations, which means skipped primers.

H.

[benos]

Ok, I've read the forums upside down and backwards and I know conventional wisdom says go with the 550 since this is my first progressive but has anyone out there started out with a 650 and what kind of experience did you have?

I will be loading approx. 2000 rounds a month of 9mm and 1000-1500 of 45acp.

Any advice before the plunge?

For what you're doing, getting a 650 makes sense. With that monthly round count and in 2 pistol calibers, you can pretty much ignore the "start with a 550" routine.

In general I want folks to really think about before just buying a 650. (Which is why I probably won't have 650 EZ-Buy Packages in my online store.) Now and then I get guys on the phone that have never reloaded, plan to start loading in 2 pistol and 2 rifle calibers, and will only load about 1000 rds/month in all 4 calibers - and they want a 650! That's just crazy. They'll spend more time fiddling with the machine than they will producing ammo.

be

[Paul Burtchell]

Ok, I've read the forums upside down and backwards and I know conventional wisdom says go with the 550 since this is my first progressive but has anyone out there started out with a 650 and what kind of experience did you have?

I will be loading approx. 2000 rounds a month of 9mm and 1000-1500 of 45acp.

Any advice before the plunge?

For what you're doing, getting a 650 makes sense. With that monthly round count and in 2 pistol calibers, you can pretty much ignore the "start with a 550" routine.

In general I want folks to really think about before just buying a 650. (Which is why I probably won't have 650 EZ-Buy Packages in my online store.) Now and then I get guys on the phone that have never reloaded, plan to start loading in 2 pistol and 2 rifle calibers, and will only load about 1000 rds/month in all 4 calibers - and they want a 650! That's just crazy. They'll spend more time fiddling with the machine than they will producing ammo.

be

Thanks Brian, I'll be ordering Monday or Tuesday of next week. I may have to call you to make sure I have everything right with the order since I'm ordering for .45acp and 9mm. I want to be sure I get everything I need but don't duplicate anything. Thanks again for the personal response.

[AZReloader]

I started with the 650 and am loading about 750 rnds per month. That number will go up dramatically as I start loading .40. The decision to go withthe 650 was related to:

1. The powder sensor (It alarms should you have a no charge or a double charge situation)

2. The case feeder

3. Ease of use. I was at Dillon's store and the darn thing just seemed so easy to use.

I haven't thought twice about the purchase since.

[Wandering Man]

I get embarrassed when I go to other forums and they talk about the "proper" way to start handloading. I asked a few friends, read a couple of handloading manuals, bought a Dillon XL650, started slow and easy and built up steam.

It seems the proper way to start handloading is to read the manuals, buy single stage equipment, and do that for a (long) while before even considering going progressive.

Was I just lucky that I haven't blown any body parts off?

WM

[tx911]

I am new to this forum, but I have been loading on a 650 for about 2.5 years, it is my first reloader, and I would not trade it for anything. after my first week, I was cranking out around 600 rounds an hour for me and a couple of other shooters. after you get the setup fiqured out the thing is a snap to use.

Edited September 11, 2007 by tx911

[PDW]

I started with a 650, I wanted the casefeeder and the autoindex.

Most complaints center around the priming system. FWIW, I haven't had any trouble with mine. I did have to adjust the index after switched to .45 from .40, but once I did that it became 100% reliable again.

Technique plays a large part in your experience. It will be overwhelming and seem like a bad buy at first, until you learn how to manipulate it properly. Now that I've got the hang of it, I can walk up, disable the primer mechanism and check the powder drop, re-enable the primer system, check OAL on the first few rounds out, and then comfortably load 300 rounds on my lunch break. When I'm really going, I knock out 500-600 rounds an hour. I couldn't imagine loading cases by hand or indexing the shellplate, with the 650 I get to concentrate on examining the case and charge before seating, and on the priming stroke, to make sure I ease the primer into the pocket, then shove it fully home. My ammo is barely less than 100%, I can recall one flipped primer in the last 2-3k rounds. Everything goes bang, never squibbed, never double charged.

H.

Houngan,

I've been reloading on a 550 for 12 years and recently had an opportunity to purchase a complete 650 in 9mm for a good price. I noticed in your post that you can "disable the primer mechanism". How does one do that? I've loaded only about 50 rds of 9mm so far, and I'm still trying to get the hang of the 650. The primer system is the most difficult part for me because one must get the primers cycled in the primer plate before getting the first case into station 1. What is the best way you've found to start the 650 up so that primers are correctly positioned for the first case?

Thanks for any info you can provide!

[AZReloader]

I started with a 650, I wanted the casefeeder and the autoindex.

Most complaints center around the priming system. FWIW, I haven't had any trouble with mine. I did have to adjust the index after switched to .45 from .40, but once I did that it became 100% reliable again.

Technique plays a large part in your experience. It will be overwhelming and seem like a bad buy at first, until you learn how to manipulate it properly. Now that I've got the hang of it, I can walk up, disable the primer mechanism and check the powder drop, re-enable the primer system, check OAL on the first few rounds out, and then comfortably load 300 rounds on my lunch break. When I'm really going, I knock out 500-600 rounds an hour. I couldn't imagine loading cases by hand or indexing the shellplate, with the 650 I get to concentrate on examining the case and charge before seating, and on the priming stroke, to make sure I ease the primer into the pocket, then shove it fully home. My ammo is barely less than 100%, I can recall one flipped primer in the last 2-3k rounds. Everything goes bang, never squibbed, never double charged.

H.

Houngan,

I've been reloading on a 550 for 12 years and recently had an opportunity to purchase a complete 650 in 9mm for a good price. I noticed in your post that you can "disable the primer mechanism". How does one do that? I've loaded only about 50 rds of 9mm so far, and I'm still trying to get the hang of the 650. The primer system is the most difficult part for me because one must get the primers cycled in the primer plate before getting the first case into station 1. What is the best way you've found to start the 650 up so that primers are correctly positioned for the first case?

Thanks for any info you can provide!

You can raise the shellplate half way and then cycle the primer system manually by pushing the primer lever about 5 or 6 times. This will advance the primers in the plate to the point you want to load that first case coming in from the first position.

[Matt Griffin]

Here's what I do when I walk up to the machine and need to check everything before starting.

Casefeeder: Off

Primer system

1. Primers in it? Then unscrew/remove the advance ramp, the bit that actuates the primer advance arm. It's one screw, just pop it off and you can cycle without advancing the primers

2. No primers in it? Finish your testing, I like to use the primed cases I'm testing with to "fill in" until the new cases reach station two. So it looks something like:

Put primed case (I always have a few around) in station two, turn on casefeed. Cycle machine.

Put second primed case in station 2, cycle. Now the new case is in station two, and needs a primer. If you were empty, put a stick of primers in the feed, and then raise the shellplate maybe 1/4 a stroke, so you can actuate the primer advance with your finger. Tip: When you see the first primer in the little gap between the system and shellplate, you need 3 more clicks to put it under station 2. If you had primers, then just screw the advance ramp back into the press.

It's easy, takes an extra 20 seconds, maybe. Very handy for when everything goes to hell so you aren't jacking primers onto the floor trying to troubleshoot something else. HEY DILLON! How about some sort of quick-release for the primer advance ramp?

H.