Wandering Man

Hah! You're right. The lit says 500 to 800. With out a case feeder, I was getting about 200 an hour (including setting up the primers, getting the bullets, & filling the powder. I haven't had my feeder long enough to figure out my count now. Since I stay away from rifle rounds and military cases, it sounds like I've still got the perfect machine for me. I've got a friend who complains that some of the once-fired .45 brass he has been using comes with small pistol primer instead of large. I told him I think he is getting military cases in there that need to be swayged (sp?), but he won't believe me. He still thinks that some companies are using the wrong primers and gluing a ring in place to hold the smaller primer in place. Of course, I haven't seen the brass. Could be he's right ... ??? Thanks folks. -WM

Would that be a John Wayne Swagger, or a Charley Sheen Swagger? Seriously, what makes the 1050 so much faster that you can go from 300 or 400 rounds an hour to 1000? I can't see much difference in the photos, and am just curious about what makes it work. -WM

I've got a 650 and only recently added the case feed. Its amazing what a difference that made to the speed at which I can make ammo. So now I'm wondering, what is it about the Super 1050 that allows it to go faster than the 650? I only produce handgun ammo, if that makes a difference. Also, it looks like they've changed the name from RL 1050 to "Super" What improvement did Dillon make to warrant the name change? Thanks. -WM

I use wheel weights to make my own bullets, for .38 special. I've purchased copper clad bullets for my other calibers. But most of my rounds (about 11,000) are the .38 special that I make for Cowboy Action Shooting (i.e. not much powder). That said, after 25,000 rounds of various calibers (.380 acp; .38 Special; .357; 9mm; and .45 acp), my cost to make a round of any type is $7.69 for 50 rounds, if all you count are the components used to make the round (averaged across the 25,000 rounds made so far). The cost of a round, if I factor in all of the equipment I've had to buy to make rounds is $13.84 for 50 rounds (press, reloading dies, lead pot, bullet dies, and so much more). The cost is still going down, but this might give you an idea about whether you will actually save money rolling your own over buying a box off the shelf. The last I checked, a box of 9mm WWW went for $13.99 for a box of 50 at Cabellas. It looks like I am saving money, even figuring the equipment. And I'm having fun. -WM

I started off with the Dillon 650 and have had no problems learning to use it. I have since been told that I should not have started off with a progressive press, but I'm not sure of the reasoning behind that. To me, a progressive press makes sense because it is difficult to forget a step and even more difficult to add a double load of powder. Be sure to get good calipers, scale, and case gauges to go with your purchase. Read the manual carefully. Be prepared to call Dillon and be suprised with how helpful they are. Buy several reloading manuals and always start with the smaller loads and work your way up. Be safe. Be sure to get back home in one piece so you can enjoy your new hobby. WM

My wife had problems at the local SASS shoot a couple of weekends ago. She's not really a new shooter, but still somewhat inexperienced. She was loading a shotshell into our Win '97 shotgun. The shell went in funny, and she was bobbing the gun around a bit to get it settled in right. As she slammed the pump shut, the gun went off and hit the dirt less than five feet downrange. She had left her finger on the trigger as she worked the pump. The RO sent her immediately to the unloading table. Neither of us (wife and I) knew the rule for this type of event and were confused about what was happening. Others started talking about whether it was a stage DQ or a match DQ. Since I didn't know what to tell her, I approached the RO. I think he confused my confusion with anger. I wasn't. I just wanted to know what to tell her. He made the decision to poll the rest of the group. They all generously told him to let her continue in the match. He offered to let her reshoot the stage, which she declined. She took a stage DQ. In retrospect, he should have given her the match DQ. By that time she was pretty shaken up anyway. She finished the last stage, but with a lot of unnecessary nervousness. Speaking as the husband, it would have been embarrassing, but OK to tell us she was disqualified. The local shoots are where we learn to get better. And we need to learn it in a safe environment. If we screw up and risk the safety of others, we need to be told. We also need lots of attention afterwards, though. Explanation, demonstration, etc. is welcome. There are just some things you don't learn at the firing line by yourself. WM

I'm just back from the range with my cap & ball revolver (Colt Army 1860). I'm thinking I'll keep the BP in my cap and ball, and stick with smokeless for my cartridge guns. Its a lot of fun to load and shoot one at a time, but it makes a big mess. WM

Thanks. That's kind of what I'd been thinking, that it might be best to bypass the poweder measure. WM

I've been thinking about trying out some black powder loads for .357 on my Dillon 650. I'm a bit reluctant, however, because I'm not sure what my powder charge should be. I know BP is usually measured by volume, not weight. And I know the powder needs to be compressed a bit in the shell. All this seems like a lot of trial and error to get the volume just right within the shell. Any one out there doing this on a Dillon? Any pointers? Thanks, WM

How sad. Still, sounds like he's willing to give them back for what he paid, which is fair. Maybe Mom will give you the money so you can get them, if you want them. The coach gun is a good bedside gun, if you don't play cowboy. Or even if you do. The Marlin ought to be a fun gun, too. You oughta' ask the SASS guy if he'll take you to the next shoot. You may find that you like playing cowboy. There should be other Cowboy Action stuff lying around, like a hat, boots, gunleather, a gun cart, and clothes. Check them out. WM

Dad probably had a good set up. You could go ahead and think along those lines and not go too far wrong. Got any of his SASS guns? Don't sell 'em. Or better yet, send 'em to me. I'll take good care of them for ya! WM

I haven't figured out how to comfortably operate my 650 in any position other than standing. WM

Gosh, I hope 40% humidity is OK. I live on the Gulf Coast where 40% humidity sends everyone running for the saline nose spray. I load in the un-airconditioned second floor of my 1920 house. Typical humidity is around 70%, often higher. I keep the powder and primers in the original containers, mostly. I've not had a problem in the three years that I have been reloading. WM

I was suprised the first time I loaded 9mm, too. Others on this board assured me that the coke bottle shape is the appropriate shape for 9mm. 4,000 rounds plus, and I've had no problem with any of them. WM

I use shopping lists to buy groceries, why not to buy powders, cases, and bullets? Sometimes I need a list to remind me what car I drive. Oh yeah, its a truck. Anyway, if you don't have a reloading manual with the powder brand in it, try going here: http://www.hodgdon.com/ WM

My Kimber CDP II doesn't like SWC, either. I use round nose or hollow points with no problems. WM

The brand of bullet is less important than the weight. As indicated above, you should be able to use a handloading book published by other bullet brands to get a start on the formula to use. You may want to start out low, and build up until you find a load that suits you and your gun (without exceeding the upper limits set down in the manual). Lyman's is a good place to start. WM

Oops. Double post. WM

I think you'll find that you need several. But start with Lyman's. WM

Wow! Lots of good information here. And I've still got a lot to learn. I've found that I need to broaden my search when looking for bullets, powder and recipes. I usually start off with a bullet I order off of MidwayUSA, and the powder I have on hand and then scramble to make the two match. I did shoot my .357 158gr SWC with 4.4 gr Bullseye today, by the way. It worked well. I can't give stats, as I don't have a chronograph and didn't have access to a bench rest. But it was a nice load, and grouped nicely, standing at 15 yards. WM

Well, they say under 1000. I'm pretty sure most folks are way under that. So I' guess it's not going to be that hard to meet that requirement. I am looking for a soft load, in any event. My wife will be using the same gun/loads I am. WM

Trailboss is what you seek. 4.2 gr behind 160 gr lrn in a .38spl case goes ~750fps Very clean burning Can you tell me some more about trailboss? Was designed for cowboy shooting (the name seems to imply that)? Would you put the same amount of powder in a .357 case? I'm basically trying to keep from developing that ring at the end of the cylinders. Thanks, WM

Yes. That is the kind of info I've been looking for. I was afraid of going that low. I'd been using 3.3 gr in my .38 loads. Looks like maybe I could stick with that. Cowboy action, I believe, just requires that your bullets travel under 1,000 fps. I think the main thing I need to do is find a bullet and powder that my reloading manuals actually have. Thanks. WM

I'm not sophisticated enough yet to understand the intracacies of different powders. I have Bullseye and 700X readily available to me. Other powders require a trip out of town. Anyway. I'm trying to find load data for .357 with 158 LSWC bullets for cowboy action shooting. Anyone here have any favorite recipies? Obviously I'm especially interested in those that use either of the two powder above, but I don't object to making a weekend run into town. Thanks, WM

don't you meen once fired primers = Thats your wife spreading the lead dust from the primer cup on your pillow so that she can collect on the Insurance Oohhh ... Words escape me. Uh, What were we talking about? WM