1911whore Posted June 23, 2007 Share Posted June 23, 2007 (edited) Ok I have a guy willing to sell me a 2011 frame in california and am looking to basically build an edge. My only conflict is should I go 9mm, .38 super, or .40??? Please help witht he decision. I want as much feedback as I can get on recoil characteristics, advantages, disadvantages etc. The only changes will be a tri top slide cause I like the blocky look and feel. also since I am building it should I do 2 top ends and what parts do you all recommend. Initially I was thinking all sti but I have a triglide in a kimber and I love it so I will probably go that route on the 2011. I dont shoot uspsa but want to get going and i want to at least be in the running you know. I do shoot IDPA. Another idea I have is to build a standard upper in either 9mm or .40 and another comped upper in .38 super, or .38 supercomp. am open to suggestions. Edited June 23, 2007 by 1911whore Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38superman Posted June 23, 2007 Share Posted June 23, 2007 (edited) If you're going to shoot an STI widebody frame in USPSA it only makes sense to go with a .40 That gun wouldn't be legal in production were the 9mm is king. The 38 super would be the way to go if you were building an open gun. Non-comped wide bodies live in Limited and L10 were 40's rule. Shoot the Kimber in IDPA and turn the STI into a limited gun. I'm not sure how it would work trying to build two uppers in 38 super and 40 for the same frame. There's more to Open than just a comp. Most competitors would want an optical sight as well. If you do that it's likely you would have to drill the frame for a C-More. Tls Edited June 23, 2007 by 38superman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trader Posted June 23, 2007 Share Posted June 23, 2007 I would build it in .40. I shot my .40 Edge this morning with both 180 gr loads and 135 gr loads. I then shot my Eagle in .38 super right afterwards. I like shooting the 135 gr .40 handloads more than the .38 super. They are more accurate than the .38's and shoot flatter out of the Edge than the 125 gr loads do in the super. When you start USPSA just switch to 180 grainers. You can't go wrong with a .40 Edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 I would build it in .40. I shot my .40 Edge this morning with both 180 gr loads and 135 gr loads. I then shot my Eagle in .38 super right afterwards. I like shooting the 135 gr .40 handloads more than the .38 super. They are more accurate than the .38's and shoot flatter out of the Edge than the 125 gr loads do in the super. When you start USPSA just switch to 180 grainers. You can't go wrong with a .40 Edge. Can't argue with a .40 Edge for Limited or Limited-10, but it won't be close to competitive in Open. That's pretty interesting about the 135gr bullets in .40 shooting flatter than 125gr bullets in a Super....what velocity are you getting from each? The 135gr .40 bullets have a pretty poor ballistic coefficient and should drop quite a bit more at the same velocity when compared with a 125gr Super. For example, the Hornady .356 125gr HAP has a BC of .158. The Nosler 135gr .40 has a BC of .093....way worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1911whore Posted June 24, 2007 Author Share Posted June 24, 2007 i dont really intend on shooting open Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wide45 Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 i dont really intend on shooting open Another idea I have is to build a standard upper in either 9mm or .40 and another comped upper in .38 super, or .38 supercomp. am open to suggestions. Not much use for a comped gun, if you are not shooting open in some sport or another. Go with the .40 limited setup. 10 rounds works great in a .40 doublestack for Lim 10. Can also shoot Limited. As long as you are stuck with 10 rounds, .40 open works good too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PistolPete Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 Are you building this gun yourself or are you sending it to be built? I wouldn't recommend building the gun if you don't have any experience with it esp. since you mentioned living in California where these frames are not easy to come by. YOu would be better off building a single stack 1911 for practice. There is more to building these guns than just throwing parts in it. If you're looking at getting into USPSA Limited or L10 then the .40 is king. I wouldn't think of using anything else. Good luck, Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1911whore Posted June 25, 2007 Author Share Posted June 25, 2007 I am going to be building it. If I were going to do anything with a comp i would send that off. I have built quite a few and do all my own work with the exception of milling and refinishing. I think it looks like itll be a limited .40 im gonna be building up , I already have a 9mm 1911 and .38 super and a slew of .45s just no .40. Im thinking this is gonna be a good one to go with/' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 Hello: Here is a little food for thought. How about a short dust cover 40 with a bushing barrel? That way you can shoot it in USPSA and also IDPA. You will have to cut the frame back if it is a long dust cover but other than that you can then shoot both type of matches. That is what I use for IDPA and USPSA with the only change being the recoil spring and mag release button. Hope this helps. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 I agree 110% with ac6racer. Build it on a classic slide, short narrow frame and bushing barrel. Legal for any game you want to play. Light guns do everything a heavy gun does, only faster. You can run a tungsten rod in the beginning and a steel magwell, now you have the same weight as an Edge type gun, and you can shave weight easily with some simple component swaps at the kitchen table. Best of both worlds with the possibility of both worlds. With a heavy frame gun you have a heavy gun, and no choice if you don't do your own milling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1911whore Posted June 25, 2007 Author Share Posted June 25, 2007 Than ks for the recommendation Ive actually been toying with the idea of the standard length dust cover so I can play both games. It is esentially and STI eagle then right? As far as end result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Watson Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 Yup. Being NRA Mechanically Inept, I gathered up all my spare parts, and took them to the 'smith to have put on an STI frame. Here's hoping I get an eagle and not a turkey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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