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New Walls


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I just finished building the walls for my stage at the SC Sectional.

Check IT out.

The picture shows my standard target stands as supports, but I'll be welding up wall supports that only have a single receiver before I'm finished.

This will be my third year of providing a stage for this match. I've learned that it's hard to get everything needed for a complicated stage in my SUV, so portability is a huge issue. After a storm in 2005 demonstrated my old wall design was terrible, wind resistance is a big deal. And finally, since I'm paying for everything, cost is a big issue.

The steel tube in the unused target stand receiver shows what is supporting the PVC walls. Should make it as strong as possible. The steel was free, otherwise I'd use wood.

Maybe this will help someone out.

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Looks nice. There's always the complaint that "snow fencing" dosent hide targets or other parts of the stage as well as solid walls do, but on the other hand if solid walls continually blow over because of wind, and the stage crew / RO's have to put them back up more than once, then delays arise, and consistancy becomes compromised.

Personally I like the snow fences. :) Nice work.

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Looks good. We have a local club that does that type of framing and uses blue corregated plastic so you can't see the targets. It sort of looks like cardboard, but its plastic. Its great since anybody can teardown and haul a 4 x 8 frame with plastic to the storage shed. It wouldn't hold up to a 3 day match without mucho reinforcement but for a club match it works great. He assembles stages using zip ties, screwguns, boards and stakes.

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Thanks

I forgot to mention that the only PVC that's glued are the side supports. That way it breaks down into 4 sections for easy transport.

The pictured wall is a smaller size, the other walls are wider and taller and fit the other supports.

I'd rather have solid walls, and used tarps just like I've used the orange netting here. Unfortunately they acted like big sails even when we sliced them up to keep them upright during the match.

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Thanks for the picture. I've got about 8 PVC pipe frames with snow fence in various sizes and designs (one with a port, one with devided, high/lo ports on each side) and the all work well. I've uses PVC pipe legs that tee to the bottom of each PVC upright and left them loose to swivel.

My only concern is the steel tube upright supports. Over the last year, 3 of the upright have been shot through. They didn't break completely and I have either taped or replaced the small section but if there were steel inside, I'd be concerned about richochet.

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I would only add: go ahead and put some more of those ball-bungie things on the frame to over-kill the fencing tie down. That way when you lose or break a bungie or the fence tears you have a couple extra bungies to make on the spot repairs.

We have trouble with shards of jacketed bullet material embedding in PVC, plastic, etc... and eventually cutting stuff up.

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My thinking is the steel needs to be cut in half. That should get it below the level where the PVC may get shot. Great suggestion.

The ball-bungie things came from Lowes and it turned out I had exactly enough for the 4 walls I built. Definitely something I need more of. I figured my large supply of electrical ties will also suffice as a backup. I originally was going to use the electrical ties until I opened my "stage toolbox" or the first time in forever and discovered the bungies.

I got the orange netting from Lowes for $38 per 100'. Last time I was looking they only had a huge roll for $200+. I also looked at deer netting and bird netting. From what I could tell, that stuff would be invisible.

I also welded up 5 stands for the 10" steel plates I'll be placing as far away as possible. I figured I'd work this steel into the stage since they are now a legal size.

I also welded up an activator for the pair of swingers I'll be using. Nice to finally find a use for the original handle from my 650. Going to be a "pull handle with strong hand only" kind of deal to activate the targets. Should work find as I'm getting around 2 feet of pull with it. Having to move from Box A to the activator may also result in a sort of holster test for those using race rigs. I'll be cranking a bit of extra tension on my Guga Ribas just in case.

My "freefire area" will be outlined with 1" PVC because that's all I have left.

I also have 3 vision barriers to build which will be made of 1X2s or 2X2s, the target stands in the photo, and burlap that I have on hand. The burlap will work fine because it's the pair of no-shoots staples to each barrier that will be doing all the "work". I may no bother with the burlap at all.

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I wanted to get away from using PVC in the high stress areas. From past experience I've seen PVC crap out in high winds, but mainly in the area of the "feet" and the short extension leading from the feet to the actual wall framework.

Right now I have a jig built to make the same target stands as you see in the photo, except with a single receiver tube in the center. The next rainy day will see that project complete and I'll be ready for April.

here's the stage (if it works). It's a lot "nicer" on paper than it will be in Columbia. The bay I hope to be using should allow those plates to be placed further back and spaced wider than the diagram indicates.

Edited by JFD
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I wanted to get away from using PVC in the high stress areas. From past experience I've seen PVC crap out in high winds, but mainly in the area of the "feet" and the short extension leading from the feet to the actual wall framework.

Right now I have a jig built to make the same target stands as you see in the photo, except with a single receiver tube in the center. The next rainy day will see that project complete and I'll be ready for April.

here's the stage (if it works). It's a lot "nicer" on paper than it will be in Columbia. The bay I hope to be using should allow those plates to be placed further back and spaced wider than the diagram indicates.

Jerry,

I like the stage and we have you set up in the last bay (6). Looks like it will be a lot of fun. I have a question though - what happens if someone shoots the PVC framing? Can you repair breakage in time? Just curious. One thing we are doing is buying the material use for large political signs (plastic 8X4 sheets) and attaching these to 2X4 frames. We can do this for you if you would like. I do like the snow fencing though because I think a lot of people take it for granted - yes they can see the target but they might start setting up prematurely thinking they are closer to the shooting position.

Again, I can't wait to shoot it. Let me know if you need anything from our end.

Jack

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Jack,

Where do you get the 8x4 plastice sheeting? that would work great at our indoor matches.

Well, there are several companies that make signs for political candidates here in SC. The sheets are 8X4 and run about $12.00 each. They are about 1/4 inch currogated plastic. We build 2X4 frames and use dry-wall screws to attach the plastic. They hold up very well and are very easy to move and store. If you go to our website and look at the Toys for Tots match pictures, you will see the walls. I will get the company's name here and perhaps you can use them to find someone in your area.

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Unfortunately for all of us, Flex has given me some tips for setting up this stage B) it might be a little harder than it appears here ;)

None of the PVC is going to be in the line of fire. The bay provides more room than I could show in the diagram without making it miniature. Just imagine the diagram being "bunched up" quite a bit.

I'm almost offended ;) that you would think I might not be ready for quick repairs. I've got 30 straight 1.5" PVC connectors, a rechargable circular saw, and can probably get a PVC support back in action before the offending shooter has signed his/her scorecard :o

I usually don't use walls made of PVC in positions where they will be in danger of getting hit, and will usually use no-shoots for added protection if it's questionable. If I thought that might happen, I'd take you up on your offer of the solid walls. Right now I'd prefer the RO be able to see anyone downrange easily. Just have some target stands ready for action and I'll be set.

My wife, who will be shooting a big match for the first time, already hates me for this stage, otherwise the running man and my 3rd swinger would be back in action. To keep the peace, I'm having to drag swingers to the range so she can get over her fear of them (not hurting me either). We always practice shots at 25+ yards, so I'm not worried about her hitting the 10" plates which will be as far away as possible. For that matter, the swingers may not be nearly as close as they appear in the diagram....I have a LOT of cable....

I'm really looking forward to the match.

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We have built 16 or 18 of those pvc and snow fence sections in 4x8 and 4x10 lenghts. We use pvc for the stands and drill holes in the stands and spike them to the ground. After 2 years of use and 2 sectionals we have had to repair 1 for bullet damage and 2 when assembling in cold weather they fractured because of stress while assembling. The stands have fared ok as 8 have been shot. Repair is easy as we have extra couplings and glue and a hack saw. Costs per unit is about 10-12 dollars and 1 person can carry 1or 2 sections to and from the stage easily. When setting up stages by myself the day before the match I can manage without problem and when more help arrives then we setup the sytages using the older heavy pickett fence sections on the large field courses.Somewhere I have a spread sheet that tells you how much material to buy and what couplings to use for 8 sections at 1 purchase.

Edited by scirocco38s
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Jack,

Where do you get the 8x4 plastice sheeting? that would work great at our indoor matches.

Well, there are several companies that make signs for political candidates here in SC. The sheets are 8X4 and run about $12.00 each. They are about 1/4 inch currogated plastic. We build 2X4 frames and use dry-wall screws to attach the plastic. They hold up very well and are very easy to move and store. If you go to our website and look at the Toys for Tots match pictures, you will see the walls. I will get the company's name here and perhaps you can use them to find someone in your area.

Jack, That would be great !Thanks.

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I'm almost offended ;) that you would think I might not be ready for quick repairs. I've got 30 straight 1.5" PVC connectors, a rechargable circular saw, and can probably get a PVC support back in action before the offending shooter has signed his/her scorecard :o

Jerry,

No offence intended. Just thinking about contingencies. Also, the fact that some of my bullets tend to do weird things sometimes....dodging targets, chasing no-shoots, turning away from steel, and the occasional clipping of a prop. So, just wanted to make sure that repairs could be done quickly in the event that I show up with possessed bullets. :D

Jack

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Jack,

Where do you get the 8x4 plastice sheeting? that would work great at our indoor matches.

Well, there are several companies that make signs for political candidates here in SC. The sheets are 8X4 and run about $12.00 each. They are about 1/4 inch currogated plastic. We build 2X4 frames and use dry-wall screws to attach the plastic. They hold up very well and are very easy to move and store. If you go to our website and look at the Toys for Tots match pictures, you will see the walls. I will get the company's name here and perhaps you can use them to find someone in your area.

Here's where we get our 4x8 sheets of plastic (Coroplast). They have a distributor 15 miles from our range in Wisconsin. http://www.regal-plastics.com/ Click on Sign Supplies, then Coroplast.

A 4x8 4mm thick sheet costs us $8.50 any color.

We also use snow fence, using 2x2 frames for both the coroplast and snow fence.

Pictures of the walls can be seen here under Holmen Practical Shooters or Major Matches. http://www.wisconsinshooters.com/coppermine/

Ronnie

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Jack,

Where do you get the 8x4 plastice sheeting? that would work great at our indoor matches.

Well, there are several companies that make signs for political candidates here in SC. The sheets are 8X4 and run about $12.00 each. They are about 1/4 inch currogated plastic. We build 2X4 frames and use dry-wall screws to attach the plastic. They hold up very well and are very easy to move and store. If you go to our website and look at the Toys for Tots match pictures, you will see the walls. I will get the company's name here and perhaps you can use them to find someone in your area.

Here's where we get our 4x8 sheets of plastic (Coroplast). They have a distributor 15 miles from our range in Wisconsin. http://www.regal-plastics.com/ Click on Sign Supplies, then Coroplast.

A 4x8 4mm thick sheet costs us $8.50 any color.

We also use snow fence, using 2x2 frames for both the coroplast and snow fence.

Pictures of the walls can be seen here under Holmen Practical Shooters or Major Matches. http://www.wisconsinshooters.com/coppermine/

Ronnie

Thats the stuff! It works great!!!

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