Vanek Drop In Trigger?

[glockrocker]

Seems that people like the Vanek trigger. Now back to the original question. For those of you that have the trigger or have been able to play with a Glock that does, how does the trigger feel? Does it stack, feel solid, feel soft? What would you estimate the trigger travel and reset at? Is the reset solid, or can it barely be felt?

That's a tough question to answer. Every Glock is different. The same trigger installed in different Glocks will behave differently. I would highly recommend you talk to Charlie

Vanek in person. Tell him what you WANT in a Glock trigger and he will give you your options. Just using different connectors can make a big difference in crisp reset for example.

I have a Vanek Custom Ultimate Trigger in my G-35. I prefer using a 5lb. connector with this gun because it almost feels like a two stage trigger and breaks real crisp and clean. The same set up with a 3.5 lb. connector feels softer and does not have the two-stage feel. The reset is short and "solid" meaning there is no question when it resets. You can definitely feel it.

I have a VC drop-in kit in my G-17. The 3.5 lb. connector works similar in this gun to the G-35 with the 5 lb. connector. Again, different Glocks behave differently. The reset on the G-17 with the drop-in is very solid and actually slightly shorter than the G-35 will full race trigger.

Again, call the real expert. This is one of the times when you get what you pay for.

VanekCustom

[ryucasta]

The one thing I have noticed about Ralph’s kits is that people keep posting that their RS kits keep breaking trigger springs and while Ralph replaces them I find it interesting that I have yet to have one of my Vanek triggers break a trigger spring.

While I do believe and practice preventive maintenance on all my firearms replacing springs on my Glock’s every 30k rounds I wonder if the way that Ralph has configured his trigger bar (Ralph doesnt provide trigger housing with his drop in kit Vanek does) is causing undue stress on the spring causing it to fail prematurely.

[driver8M3]

The one thing I have noticed about Ralph’s kits is that people keep posting that their RS kits keep breaking trigger springs and while Ralph replaces them I find it interesting that I have yet to have one of my Vanek triggers break a trigger spring.

While I do believe and practice preventive maintenance on all my firearms replacing springs on my Glock’s every 30k rounds I wonder if the way that Ralph has configured his trigger bar (Ralph doesnt provide trigger housing with his drop in kit Vanek does) is causing undue stress on the spring causing it to fail prematurely.

i've broken a couple of springs on my Vanek trigger (the non-drop in trigger job). on my drop-in vanek kit, i replaced his trigger spring with the stock spring because the trigger wouldn't fully reset all the time.

[ryucasta]

Driver,

Could you provide an estimate of how many live/dry fires you did before the trigger spring failed?

[driver8M3]

Driver,

Could you provide an estimate of how many live/dry fires you did before the trigger spring failed?

the 1st one broke pretty fast...after about 5-10k rounds. the next one lasted longer, probably 15-20k rounds.

[Chris Keen]

15K - 20K rounds or dry-fires ??

I only shot 20K rounds this year alone. I don't dry-fire as much as I should (practicaly none) so that sounds to me like approx. once a year.

Springs do break or wear out, and should be replaced accordingly. I replace my trigger spring, and recoil spring at least once a year. Call it preventive maintenance.

No biggie!

[driver8M3]

15K - 20K rounds or dry-fires ??

I only shot 20K rounds this year alone. I don't dry-fire as much as I should (practicaly none) so that sounds to me like approx. once a year.

Springs do break or wear out, and should be replaced accordingly. I replace my trigger spring, and recoil spring at least once a year. Call it preventive maintenance.

No biggie!

the 1st one broke after about 6 months...almost all live fire. the 2nd one lasted about a year...again, almost all live fire. not enough dry fire for me either...

[Flexmoney]

No biggie?

Not in my gun.

[Suburban Commando]

Seems that people like the Vanek trigger. Now back to the original question. For those of you that have the trigger or have been able to play with a Glock that does, how does the trigger feel? Does it stack, feel solid, feel soft? What would you estimate the trigger travel and reset at? Is the reset solid, or can it barely be felt?

I only ask these questions as I'm coming from another gun platform that had a Bruce Gray trigger job and am kind of spoiled by it. Some Glocks that I have played with have a stacking feel when squeezing the trigger, while some feel like glass cause they are so smooth. I've also come across resets that I can't feel at all, some that have a crisp reset, some that are very long, some that are short, etc. I would like a trigger kit where I can feel the reset, as I'm what you could call a sear rider I guess. I release the trigger just far enough for it to reset between shots.

I also know that it is just going to take some time and dry fire practice to get myself adjusted, but it doesn't hurt to have a step or two in the right direction

Thanks again guys.

Essentially, my kit felt mostly like stock, but with a lighter "second stage." I didn't notice any reduction in pre-travel. Pre-travel and the creep felt about the same, so I put some epoxy in the front of the ejector housing and got rid of most of the pre-travel.

Reset is maybe not as strong, but very noticable. The "second stage" feels solid, without any noticable stacking. There is definately some creep there, but still not near what a real DAO trigger is like. The "melted" striker safety button is incredible. I tried to replicate the melt job, but that sucker is HARD and I didn't get far.

I'm not really sure that I would go with a Vanek kit again, though I might buy the safety button a la carte. The trigger bar polishing I can do myself, a little better even. Redrilling that bar is a PITA, the bits that bite into the steel break, and the ones that don't break won't bite into the metal.

Edited December 7, 2006 by Suburban Commando

[Joe D]

You don't have to drill the trigger bar. Just bend the tab forward. Reduces pre-travel as well.

[Flexmoney]

Joe, have you tried doing both? (drill and bend the tab)

I never got around to trying that.

[Joe D]

Yes, I have done both. Actually three different approaches. It is a lot easier to cut a slot than drill a hole. IMO you get better results by bending the tab forward. Doing so limits the forward travel of the trigger also.

Heat the area of the bend using a torch. Angle the torch down as you just want to heat the bend. Once it is red bend it. Failure to heat the tab will result in a broken tab. You will need to trim back the plastic trigger pad safety. I set my trigger bars where the little nub is just touching the striker safety plunger.

Edited December 9, 2006 by Joe D

[Joe D]

This is the area to heat.

[Micah]

Great pics Joe D. Thank you for posting them!

[Trey1975]

I just bought a G 35 W Vaneks Ultimate Trigger in it.It is very nice! Light and smooth throughout the entire pull.Overtravel is not a prob..it works great for me! I would recomend doing buisness with Charley.I have meet and shot with him twice in OK...Very nice and knows what he is talking about...not to mention a great shooter:)