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Hard Chrome Plating


Chuck D

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Getting ready to hard chrome my Limited/L10 gun as part of the "rebuilding" process. I normally would ship the frame and slide only (plus a few external parts) for plating but I'm thinking about sending the whole gun and having all the parts including the barrel plated.

Are there advantages and/or disadvantages to plating the barrel, hammer, sear, and disconnector? Would LOVE to hear from those that have had this done as to their experiences. ;)

Do you gain velocity or accuracy? Any problems with feeding or trigger pull quality?

Thanks in advance for our input.... :)

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I think the sear is the only one that generally ins't done b/c it is so hard anyway (maybe the hammer, too). Virgil Tripp has/had some great info on this on his website: Tripp Research

+1, Tripp research does a great job. As far as part they hardchromed everything. On my single stack the barrel was hardchromed but on the open gun they don't recommend it.

Flyin40

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Hard chrome plating is a coating that can and will "chip" off under certain situations. Something to consider before you do so.

The problem seems to arise at some shops where the parts are not properly prepared, or the polisher/blaster is not a gunsmith or familiar with the functioning of the firearm, or its parts interaction. This is very important in the preparation prior to plating. Normally most shops will bead blast everything after stripping the previous finish, and then polish cosmetically where needed. Usually slide and frame rails get blasted away and left that way. The same can/could happen to hammer hooks and sear, breech-face, or any other part that requires a polished/smooth finish to function properly. The results sometimes resemble "plated sandpaper".

This is the reason why "my plater/bluer" only does the dipping, while all the preparation and re-assembly is done by me at my place. But of course if you follow that route, you must be able to "really" be able to prepare the surface properly, including pre-stripping, cleaning, etc. and protecting the prepared surfaces with some oil to avoid rusting during shipping.

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I wouldn't hard chrome the extractor. The only extractor I've ever had H.C.ed broke the hook off during the first magazine after getting it back from the finish shop. The extractor was brand new.

Edited by Bigbadaboom
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  • 4 weeks later...

Virgil did a great job on my old Beretta Elite, SIG 220 and Glock 21. I had the slide and barrels and all other steel parts done on each. It holds up really well to holster wear and never chipped on me.

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Virgil does a great job, has done 5 open guns and 1 limited gun for me, all have been perfect and run 100%. Don't chrome the extractor, sear or sights other than that everything will get chromed. Virgil is totally professional and his turnaround time is fast!

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Not to bicker.....but I would send the extractor. Tripp chromed my open gun last year. They only chromed the end that matches up with the back of the slide. Every tiny screw and pin got chromed as well. Anything that had a mating surface (hammer, sear, and such) were left alone, or the exposed portion was chromed to match the rest of the gun. Send it all.

Tripp Rocks!!!!

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I have intermittently seen hard chrome adversely affect the ability of an extractor to hold its' shape.

I would believe that. I also believe that the chroming process contributed to the firing pin in my gun breaking in less than one year. (I forgot about that until just now)

All that was chromed on the extractor was the head. (the end that sticks out and about 1/2" down from that, just past where it engages the firing pin stop) Not on the part that flexes or is responsible for holding the case.

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