Production draw time

[Steve Moneypenny]

Ronnie,

Just thought i would add, since my last post my draws are consistantly at .9 (in practice) about 1.0 in matches, with the glock 22 i am now shooting from a kytac sooper hooper 2 holster (slower with most other holsters, the way this fits my body is the big advantage and reason for the best times. i have gone faster, but not dependabally.

Also, there are many aspects of shooting everything comes full circle you have to pick one thing and get good. ie. this month practice draws. next reloads, next transitions to every possible position, movement (in any order. and when you are finished go back to the beginning of the loop) it's a never ending journey, but the fun is the journey its self not the end.

[twix]

I guess they do come full circle Smoney. It was almost a year ago today that you posted in this same thread that you don't shoot Glocks because they rub your hand wrong.

So what's the story with you and DT's "re-discovery" of the Glock? I'm not trying to be a smart aleck, I'm really curious. Duane?

And just to stay on topic, I'm doing about 1.5 seconds for an "A" at 10 yards with a G35 out of a Bladetech dropped and offset. I think a little dedicated dry fire may bring that down.

[rhino]

I could not draw fast today, at least when actually using my sights. I don't shoot in production (right now), but I use a holster as if I did (a standard Blade-Tech belt scabbard).

I can do 1.1 sec if I just snatch and blast (at least I could last spring) and get an A hit as seven yards. Today I was in the 1.8 range for most of the day, but I was actually trying to see my sights at 5,7, and 15 yards.

I think I can shoot more accurately (and faster) at 5-7 yards if I don't try to use my sights.

[Ron Ankeny]

...and I still stumble along with my sloth like draw, and continue to do pretty darned good. I still say anything in the range of 1.2-1.4 seconds, in a match, on demand, with A zone hits, at 10 yards ain't too shabby.

[Jake Di Vita]

I agree with Ron. I think 1.2 to an A at 10 anytime and everytime is all it takes. It definetely don't hurt to be faster though.

[Garfield]

A 1.1 draw with a .35 split is just as good as a 1.25 draw with a .2 split.

If I may nitpick: I would say better. The draw is normally only done once during a COF, splits usually far more often than 1 time...

[Steve Moneypenny]

Twix. great point! glocks have never changed but i did! i lost about 40 pounds. before my hands were "puffier" especially in that area. i still have a good bit of weight to lose , but that made enough room so that only the smaller glocks bite my hand now (took some time away from healthfood and working out and gained 10 pounds back over about 5 months) only the glock 23 and smaller rub my hand. which i carry now but the 22 has enough frame there not to cause that problem for me any more.

Garfield, I am pretty srue David Olahasso is referring to the FIRST draw/split. where you must make a trigger transition.

Ron is right a 1.2-4 draw is plenty sufficient for most matches. as long as your other times are good and you shoot solid(no mistakes)

Steve

[twix]

Congrats on the weight loss Steve. Glock on.

[Paladin]

David O,

I am not so sure one should be concentrating on the 2nd shot when the 1st shot is still to be made. Did I get you right?

[David Olhasso]

The idea is not to force the first shot off with a bad grip or bad sight picture and then have to adjust the grip or the sight picture for the second shot. Get the gun gripped correctly, the sights lined up and then take your first shot. The issue is magnified when shooting a DA/SA. If you get the first shot off quickly but then have to adjust your grip or trigger finger placement for the second shot, then what good was the really quick first shot?