Which 625 To Buy?

[Genghis]

I know from reading other posts that the S&W 625 is THE revolver for USPSA and IDPA competitions. I've seen discussions of the various models (JM, 1988, 1989, and Performance Center JM). But I don't really know which one is the best. I've seen 625's on Gunbroker.com and Gunsamerica.com for $580 - 620, and sometimes a lot more money.

I know I'll need a 4 inch barrel to be legal for IDPA. I've read that you can shoot loose rounds without the moonclip, so it appears a 4" gun would be legal for SSR or ESR.

The 625 JM Miculek model looks good, but I'm not sure exactly what the differences are from the regular 625 other than the wooden grip and cosmetics. It looks like you can find one for about $20 more than the standard 625.

I'd just be getting started with round guns, although I've shot Limited and Open guns for a little more than a year. So I'm not looking to edge Jerry out just yet.

Any other suggestions on which one to get, or where to get it?

[R112mercer]

This has been done before, but here goes:

Your cheapest bet is a used 625, they're easy enough to find and it's hard to wear out a Smith revolver or damage it to the point where it's not able to be repaired fairly cheaply.

If you want the "super-gamer-nine-million" revolver (in other words, with a trigger job from Randy Lee) you just have to be sure to get a 625 with the frame mounted firing pin. No, it doesn't matter if it has the lock. The ones with the firing pin on the hammer give plenty fine trigger jobs as well, just not as light as the frame mounted ones.

I don't know jack about IDPA, you're on your own until somebody else chimes in.

I do know about the whole "edge Jerry out" thing, guys have been trying for years, with little luck. Jerry gives you something to strive for, and if you ever get to shoot a match with him you'll never forget it. Between watching him shoot and getting to know, hands down, the nicest guy in this game is memorable

Edited May 5, 2006 by R112mercer

[xuxupecheur]

A couple of points:

Yes, you can shoot 45 ACP without moonclips but it will not eject fired brass because they're rimless (that's why they use moonclips). So forget about 625s in SSR. For that purpose get the 38spc of your choice.

I do not know about materials used, but the differences between the regular 625 and the JM are the grip (you may like it or not) the gold bead FS (you may like it or not) and the serrated trigger.

I agree with the previous post. Look for a good used one (I recently bought a mint one for $450) and start building from there. That's how you'll save rather than buying the good for everything tool. You may have guessed it by now. No saving money in this sport !

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

A couple of points:

Yes, you can shoot 45 ACP without moonclips but it will not eject fired brass because they're rimless (that's why they use moonclips). So forget about 625s in SSR. For that purpose get the 38spc of your choice.

I do not know about materials used, but the differences between the regular 625 and the JM are the grip (you may like it or not) the gold bead FS (you may like it or not) and the serrated trigger.

I agree with the previous post. Look for a good used one (I recently bought a mint one for $450) and start building from there. That's how you'll save rather than buying the good for everything tool. You may have guessed it by now. No saving money in this sport !

I would correct only one thing. You can easily shoot SSR with a 625 and AutoRim brass with speed loaders. Load to the 125 power factor and have one gun for 2 divisions.

Regards,

[cking]

I just went through this. The 625JM is nice starting point for a 4 inch gun. You get the miculek grip, changeable front sight. However the production model JM has the mim hammer and trigger. That are flash chromed. So working on the hammer and trigger are limited to what you can do. So randy lee double action only hammer is about the only option. Now all PC guns have real hammers and triggers, and the fit and finish on them is a little better than the production model.

On my production model JM, the crane was cut crooked, the flash chrome had peeled on trigger bevel, and double action sear was not timed that well. Mim bolt was cut short. If nobody had told you about these things they did not really make that much difference. So I fixed it and sold it. Call it a hundred dollar learning lesson. compared to some of my lessons this one was cheap.

So I then went out an found a 625JM from PC shop with a 5 inch barrel with the underlug cut like the mountain gun. This was a distributor special that you can't even find on the s&W web site. The 5 inch guns don't sell well and this PC gun was only $75.00 more than the production gun.

The PC gun is fitted better, no parts have to be replaced, only polishing and set of miculek springs. I will still trim the crane to put in powers washers because I like the way it helps reduce cylinder drag.

The barrel face had some burrs from fitting, the breach face where cylinder latches had some tool/cutting marks, but in general not much work to do.

I like the longer site radius, and I like the trimmed underlug for lighter barrel weight. Also the Miculek grips were cut a little different, more meat behind the trigger and they fit me better.

picky aren't I, oh well. hope the info helps.

[Carmoney]

However the production model JM has the mim hammer and trigger. That are flash chromed. So working on the hammer and trigger are limited to what you can do.

Actually, you can do pretty much anything to the MIM parts that you can the regular parts. My 626-6 with MIM parts slicked up great, using the same techniques I've always used with forged parts, and everything's held up great after several thousand rounds.

[SWINE]

I'm a bit late in getting into the conversation, but after reading the posts, I also would like to find a 5 inch JM PC model if there are any left out there. I called the S&W distributor who handles the JM PC version, Cam Four. They only have a few of the 4 Inch versions left, but did confirm that there were 5 inch models.

Are you able to point us in the right direction as to whom we might contact to see if there are any more 5 inch JM PC guns floating around?

I've just started IPSC this year and have been shooing Limited, L-10, and production. Revolver looks pretty cool so can't wait to give it a try.

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

I'm a bit late in getting into the conversation, but after reading the posts, I also would like to find a 5 inch JM PC model if there are any left out there. I called the S&W distributor who handles the JM PC version, Cam Four. They only have a few of the 4 Inch versions left, but did confirm that there were 5 inch models.

Are you able to point us in the right direction as to whom we might contact to see if there are any more 5 inch JM PC guns floating around?

I've just started IPSC this year and have been shooing Limited, L-10, and production. Revolver looks pretty cool so can't wait to give it a try.

You wil have to look on GunBroker or another auction site for the 5" PC gun. In my opinion, they are not worth the extra money. Find a stock 5" 625 and work with that. I had the 4" Camfor version and absolutely hated it. Maybe I got a bad one, but that was my experience.

Good luck,

[SWINE]

Thanks again for the info. I picked up a new 625 5 inch today at my local fav gunshop along with some extra wilson moon clips. It was the only 625 in town and great price to boot. This will be my first revolver and I'm pretty excited about learning to shoot it in IPSC.

Now, maybe a CR Speed or Blade Tech holster and some moon clip holders from California Competition works... Am I on the right track?

Thanks again!

[warpspeed]

I went a differnet route

Bought a new 625 5" off gunbroker. Had it for one day. Sent it to Randy Lee . Full Boat !

I pick up a 610 4" tomorrow It will go to Randy as well.

[rwmagnus]

Thanks again for the info. I picked up a new 625 5 inch today at my local fav gunshop along with some extra wilson moon clips. It was the only 625 in town and great price to boot. This will be my first revolver and I'm pretty excited about learning to shoot it in IPSC.

Now, maybe a CR Speed or Blade Tech holster and some moon clip holders from California Competition works... Am I on the right track?

Thanks again!

You are on the right track. If using the CR Speed get the short block holster for the 5" 625 that way you don't have to modify anything to get it to fit. Many use the Blade Tech style holsters as well it's really personal preference. You'll need 6-9 moon clip holders and a good belt. Almost everyone uses the CR Speed belt. Moon clips are a personal preference thing also. Try TK Customs, Brownells or Ranch Products. Give the RIMZ clips a try and see how you like them. Do a search here and you'll find plenty of info. I use RIMZ 25 clips in my 625 guns and really like them. Advantage is no tools are necessary.

You need to champher the cylinder holes and have a trigger job done which will bring it from 12lbs to about 6-7lbs pretty easily. Full on custom trigger jobs are down to 3lbs. You should stick with federal primers if you reload. At 6-7lb trigger will still light off winchester primers but they aren't as soft as federals. Sights are a personal preference also mine are a gold bead up front and a white outline rear.

Go have some fun and practice reloading with dummy ammo in dry fire sessions.

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

Thanks again for the info. I picked up a new 625 5 inch today at my local fav gunshop along with some extra wilson moon clips. It was the only 625 in town and great price to boot. This will be my first revolver and I'm pretty excited about learning to shoot it in IPSC.

Now, maybe a CR Speed or Blade Tech holster and some moon clip holders from California Competition works... Am I on the right track?

Thanks again!

If you haven't read the FAQs at the top of this forum, start there. Also don't discount the Extreme Holster. Check it out at Shooter's Connection.

Regards

[Jaxshooter]

If you can find one of the Original 625 PC guns with the grey Miculek grips still, buy it. They are worth the extra money. The internal aprts are forged not cast. The have great triggers with very little work. A spring kit a a little polishing and you are done.

Edited June 24, 2006 by Jaxshooter

[ewokUk]

If you want the "super-gamer-nine-million" revolver (in other words, with a trigger job from Randy Lee) you just have to be sure to get a 625 with the frame mounted firing pin. No, it doesn't matter if it has the lock. The ones with the firing pin on the hammer give plenty fine trigger jobs as well, just not as light as the frame mounted ones.

OK, here's a realy dumb question: Shouldn't the one with the firing pin on the hammer be able to give a lighter trigger job because it has less moving parts - no transfer bar etc. Or is the newer design just better?

[rwmagnus]

If you want the "super-gamer-nine-million" revolver (in other words, with a trigger job from Randy Lee) you just have to be sure to get a 625 with the frame mounted firing pin. No, it doesn't matter if it has the lock. The ones with the firing pin on the hammer give plenty fine trigger jobs as well, just not as light as the frame mounted ones.

OK, here's a realy dumb question: Shouldn't the one with the firing pin on the hammer be able to give a lighter trigger job because it has less moving parts - no transfer bar etc. Or is the newer design just better?

Not a dumb Q at all. I think it's all about mass. Unless your looking for a full on Randy Lee custom bobed hammer all you need to do is polish internals and change a couple springs. I have a 25-2 hammer mounted pin and a couple 625's with frame pins both cleaned up nicely. I do have a preference for the old quality but the current generation wheelies are fine.

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

OK, here's a realy dumb question: Shouldn't the one with the firing pin on the hammer be able to give a lighter trigger job because it has less moving parts - no transfer bar etc. Or is the newer design just better?

What RWM said, plus there is no transfer bar. Hammer strikes spring loaded firing pin.

As for more or less moving parts. the "new" design is really not new. It has been used in their rim fire for a long time. The firing pin is already lined up to strike where the older style has to be centered on the hole with no deviation to allow the same force.

Both systems work fine depending on who is working on the gun.

regards,

Edited June 25, 2006 by Round_Gun_Shooter

[R112mercer]

OK, here's a realy dumb question: Shouldn't the one with the firing pin on the hammer be able to give a lighter trigger job because it has less moving parts - no transfer bar etc. Or is the newer design just better?

The new style actions give lighter trigger jobs because of the way Randy modifies the hammer. Randy slims the hammer down so it's real light and also increases it's arc of movement. The net effect is to give the hammer a higher velocity, which imparts more energy to the firing pin. The old style hammers had some extra weight on them (hammer nose, hammer nose rivet, etc.) that you can't cut away, therefore the old style hammers can't get as light and fast as the new style hammers (despite Mike's best efforts).

It's also worth it to mention that when Randy does a full-on trigger job he uses his own, specially made, hammer assembly, he doesn't shave down the factory part.

[Carmoney]

The old style hammers had some extra weight on them (hammer nose, hammer nose rivet, etc.) that you can't cut away, therefore the old style hammers can't get as light and fast as the new style hammers (despite Mike's best efforts).

Hold up now....I've actually been able to whittle away the old-style hammer to make it weigh substantially less than the Randy hammer. And yet I have not managed to get the ol' 25-2's action down in the same range as my new-style frame-mounted FP 625 with home-carved factory hammer.

So there's more to it than just the weight of the hammer.

I think the old-style hammer might use up some of its energy trying to align and jam its nose through the frame, whereas the new-style guns have the FP all nice 'n' lined up and ready to go. That's my theory anyway....

[R112mercer]

The old style hammers had some extra weight on them (hammer nose, hammer nose rivet, etc.) that you can't cut away, therefore the old style hammers can't get as light and fast as the new style hammers (despite Mike's best efforts).

Hold up now....I've actually been able to whittle away the old-style hammer to make it weigh substantially less than the Randy hammer. And yet I have not managed to get the ol' 25-2's action down in the same range as my new-style frame-mounted FP 625 with home-carved factory hammer.

So there's more to it than just the weight of the hammer.

I think the old-style hammer might use up some of its energy trying to align and jam its nose through the frame, whereas the new-style guns have the FP all nice 'n' lined up and ready to go. That's my theory anyway....

Point taken, good observation Mike. Your theory sounds logical, as well.