Slip 2000 Carbon Killer Doesn't Work

[bountyhunter]

More accurately, SLIP 2000 Carbon Killer does not work as advertised.... and does not do the things that would make it useful.

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION: water based degreaser product, biodegradeable and non-toxic.

COST: Quart can cost $31 with delivery. That is about $1 PER OUNCE.

USAGE: soak dirty part and rinse clean with water (or wipe off).

Here are the claims made on their website (http://www.slip2000.com/carbonkiller.html ):

1) Carbon Killer provides you with a safe effective way to clean carbon, lead and plastic wad fouling.

2) May be used in chambers and barrels as a bore cleaner.

3) Apply to cylinder faces, bolt faces and any other hard to clean areas and allow to soak for 2 to 10 minutes. Carbon, lead, copper, plastic and burnt powder will wipe clean with a nylon brush.

4) Dissolves burnt on carbon and will help flush powder and carbon residue out of all cans and suppressors.

5) Allow parts to soak in solution 2 to 15 minutes. Remove parts from solution and wipe or rinse off carbon fouling. It's that easy.

6) PICTURE SHOWING: dirty and blackened revo cylinder face (before and after) with after showing polished silver appearance.

7) Along with the new name comes new packaging. All glass and metal have been replaced with durable plastic. These user friendly packages can also be used as storage containers.

First off, contrary to the claim above, my quart of cleaner arrived in ametal can with a warning that the cleaner may not be stored in it after opening. Thanks a lot.

SUMMARY OF TEST RESULTS:

1) Product does remove "loose" carbon or grease.

2) Product does NOT do anything against burned on carbon, even after repeated soakings. Will not clean a revolver cylinder face as shown, will not cleaned burned carbon from either the inside of then cylinder tubes or barrel bore.

3) PROS: biodegradeable and doesn't stink.

4) CONS: does not do anything to remove burned carbon. Way too expensive for what it does. Product is very sticky and needs to be rinsed with water, requiring steel parts to be carefully flushed with oil and sealed to prevent rust.

MY OPINION: If you want a bio friendly (non stinky cleaner) MPRO is better than this junk and doesn't require a water rinse. This cleaner doesn't remove anything that mineral spirits, acetone, Hoppes #9, or any other decent cleaner won't remove for a fraction of the cost.

If you want a water-rinse degreaser, the stuff made for car engines is just as effective and costs about $2 for a 24 ounce can.

DETAILS OF TEST METHOD USED:

1) Gun #1: SW 66 revo, 100% cleaned before testing (absolutely clean). Fired 25 rounds of 158-gr FMJ .38sp ammo.

2) Cylinder removed and coating of slip 2000 was applied to the cylinder face and let stand for 15 minutes: the carbon did not wipe or rub off.

3) A Q-TIP was used to repeatedly rub the cleaner on the cylinder face. The carbon burn rings could not be removed.

4) Cylinder was soaked entirely in the cleaner for 20 minutes. Scrubbed face with nylon brush, carbon rings still visible. FAILED TEST.

Gave up on them and focused on the burned carbon inside the cylinders:

5) Used a stiff nylon brush to repeatedly scrub the cylinder tubes, then inspected: hard carbon deposits at the muzzle end still there.

6) repeated 15 minute soakings and brush scrubbings. The hard carbon showed NO CHANGE. FAILED TEST. The web siteimages shown of the revolver cylinder sparkling clean after a wipe off is clearly wrong.

BARREL BORE TEST:

1) Gun #2 was a clean Beretta 92FS, with aftermarket barrel. Polished stainless steel barrel, extended with ports. Fired 50 rounds of standard 115-gr FMJ ammo.

2) removed barrel and soaked it in the cleaner.

3) Used stiff nylon brush to scrub bore. Hard carbon still visible in the corners of the barrel grooves near the throat end.

4) Repeated soakings and scrubbings of the bore: carbon still in corners of the grooves. FAILED TEST.

5) Scrubbed barrel ports with nylon brush. hard carbon deposits on the front edges of the ports would not loosen or remove. FAILED TEST.

Edited March 20, 2006 by bountyhunter

[Vlad]

From your desription is sounds no different, or maybe worse, then most of the purple cleaners.

[Gregory_k]

Most guys I know soak ar bolts and carriers overnite submerged in the stuff. If you do stor the stuff in plastic the can will rust away. When soaking overnite make sure the complete part is under the solution if not you will have a rust ring.

[Harmon]

sounds like a crock to me....i guess the hands free gun cleaner is years away...still.

harmon

[bountyhunter]

Most guys I know soak ar bolts and carriers overnite submerged in the stuff. If you do stor the stuff in plastic the can will rust away. When soaking overnite make sure the complete part is under the solution if not you will have a rust ring.

True, carbon steel will rust in any water-based product if not fully submerged (and will eventually rust even if it is submerged, but will take longer).

I've never been a big believer in using water-based products on steel since the formula for rust is steel + water.

I shoot wheelguns a lot and am always looking for the holy grail: some kind of soak which will remove the hard burned carbon off the cylinder without wrist killing scrubbing. Such a product would be worth a lot of money. This thing claims to do it, but it doesn't. Just a heads up for other people.

[shred]

When I did a comp-cleaning test with a bunch of free samples from match goodie bags, the best I found at getting off the crud (though none were all that good) was the new Hoppes Elite cleaner.

[bountyhunter]

The search for the Holy Grail continues..... that substance which can be applied to burned on carbon and wiped off.

I had an insane thought:

The only thing I ever saw remove burned on crap was OVEN CLEANER!

Makes me wonder if something like that could be applied with a Q-tip. It is pretty nasty smelling and caustic..... but it might work.

[Precision40]

I had about the same results with this junk. Simple Green works better and is a helluva lot cheaper.

[cliffwalsh]

Here is what I use on my Stainless Steel and Stainless Steel ONLY!!!!!!!!!!

50% white vinegar and 50% hydrogen peroxide.

Lead will completely dissolve. You can drop a bullet in to test it. It also removes carbon and other burn crap.

This will remove blue and chrome and other coatings. Do not try!!!!!!

I fill a big gulp cup with it. Remove the cylinder and submerge. Then, I sink the revo in up to the forcing cone leaving the trigger out. You will see the reaction start to bubble. Once all the components have reacted the solution is inert so you might have to repeat if you have a lot of crud. Let it set 10 minutes then wipe off the cylinder face and outside surfaces then I run a patch through the bore and the chambers. Then repeat if necessary. You can use on stainless barrels and other parts.

When I am finished, I dump the stuff on the weeds growing in the cracks of my side walk. Works great. Don't throw it on your lawn.

Hope that helps.

thank SmittyFL for the heads up.

[21 shooter]

I use a citrus cleaner found in the auto section at wally world. I let the cylinder soak in it overnight and the crud will wipe off. I like to shoot my 686, but 50 rounds of cast bullets and it looks like a black powder pistol.