Lee Pro 1000-using Preprimed Cases

[sharkjuju]

I am looking for suggestions on setting up a Lee Pro 1000 using preprimed cases. I want to flare & loasd in the 1st position, seat the bullet in the 2nd position and use a Lee FCD in the 3rd position.

Is the case feeder worth using in this set up?

I want to remove the priming system also.

I have searched the site and found some tips from previous threads, I would appreciate more detail.

I travel a lot and spend time in the evenings checking case lengths and priming (Auto Prime).

I will be loading .40 S&W and .357 Sig.

Not looking for reasons to buy a Dillon, just how to best use the Pro 1000 as described.

Thanks!

[AlamoShooter]

Ok plese do tell any one this but... I used to use a Lee 1000

just unscrew the depriming pin and rod out of the size die .. or unscrew the entire die.

We do that with rifle too.

don't tell any one I was heer

Dillion forever on

[KirbyAU]

Shark,

that's how i've run my 1000's for years.

Pre priming & sizing saves lots of hassles with the press and speeds up the production rate. Certainly use the case feeder. This is one of the Lee's strong points.

I stopped bothering with checking case lenghts on auto pistol cases about 20 years ago - not so critical with taper crimping.

Flaring and powder at #1, bullet seating at #2 and Factory crimp die at #3 for me.

And yes have a Dillon too but Lee 1000's are a great tool as well.

[jkrispies]

While I shall neither confirm nor deny possessing a Lee Pro 1000 in the configuration of which you speak...

Make sure that you remove the ENTIRE priming system, including the little plastic doo-hicky that the brass hits as it travels between station one and station two. I think its purpose is to open a gateway that drops the primer into battery for seating. Since you won't be priming, this won't be necessary, but more importantly... if the case is charged when it hits this thing, it'll jiggle powder over the ridge of the brass and make a mess on top of screwing up the consistency of your powder from round to round.

And DEFINITELY use the case collator. If I could figure out a way to hook up that $15 thing to a 550 I'd do it about two seconds.

[Tokarev]

And DEFINITELY use the case collator. If I could figure out a way to hook up that $15 thing to a 550 I'd do it about two seconds.

Wouldn't that make a DiLEEn 551000?

[JFD]

That's the only way I'd ever use a Pro 1000.

Since I load on 3 SDBs, I use my Pro 1000 to run my e-bay .40 brass through a U die, then use the press to run loaded rounds through a FCD. Those are things I'd normally use a single stage or turret press for, but the Lee is a lot faster. I'd definitely recommend using the case feeder.

One of these days I need to sell my SDBs and buy a single 650.

[joecichlid]

I am running a Lee 1000 myself and here is what I do:

With one tool head I run all my brass through and size/deprime ONLY.

Clean the primer pockets (usually only for any major match)

Hand prime my cleaned brass (Lee single stage press set up with their auto primer set up)

Replace the tool head with a second one with Powder die on first stage (with spring auto return instead of the chain), seating on station two (with all of the priming parts removed) which is nomrally the prime/powder drop die then Factory Crimp Die on station three.

I use this set up for both my .45 and my .38 Super without a problem. The auto case feeder and case colator are WELL worth the money if you ask me.

Joe W.

[mike_pinto]

I am running a Lee 1000 myself and here is what I do:

With one tool head I run all my brass through and size/deprime ONLY.

Clean the primer pockets (usually only for any major match)

Hand prime my cleaned brass (Lee single stage press set up with their auto primer set up)

Replace the tool head with a second one with Powder die on first stage (with spring auto return instead of the chain), seating on station two (with all of the priming parts removed) which is nomrally the prime/powder drop die then Factory Crimp Die on station three.

I use this set up for both my .45 and my .38 Super without a problem. The auto case feeder and case colator are WELL worth the money if you ask me.

Joe W.

Joe,

What is the spring return for the rplacement of the chain? Do you have pics/order info?

Thanks..

Mike

[joecichlid]

Here are the parts. Both can be bought through Midway USA and they have them in stock.

Lee Lever for Auto-Disk Powder Measure (Replacement Part) $1.99

Lee Spring for Auto-Disk Powder Measure (Replacement Part) $1.09

The parts are simple to install. The spring hooks over the arm on the lever then up into one of the slot on the rear of the powder charger. If you need a photo of how it is set up let me know and I will see what I can do about getting one shot this weekend for you.

Joe W.

[mike_pinto]

Here are the parts. Both can be bought through Midway USA and they have them in stock.

Lee Lever for Auto-Disk Powder Measure (Replacement Part) $1.99

Lee Spring for Auto-Disk Powder Measure (Replacement Part) $1.09

The parts are simple to install. The spring hooks over the arm on the lever then up into one of the slot on the rear of the powder charger. If you need a photo of how it is set up let me know and I will see what I can do about getting one shot this weekend for you.

Joe W.

Joe,

Thanks.. I will get 'em ordered. I am a visual kinda guy so if you get a second to take a pic for me, I would be very grateful. Thanks..

Mike

[joecichlid]

Here you go:

I think they may have redesigned the lever since I got this one but you get the idea I hope.

Joe W.

[mike_pinto]

Thanks Joe.. That helps alot.

Mike

[ArnisAndyz]

I have my Pro1000 setup to run presized/preprimed brass as well with the dies setup in the same order. Eliminates alot of headaches. I also bought a few components to change it over to a turrent press for general single stage duties. I usually have it setup as a turrent press and switch it over when I'm running low on 9mm, load a bunch then change it back.

[joecichlid]

Yeah, I have found that the Lee presses tend to have issues with flipping primers upside down or sticking them in sideways. Taking that out of the equasion help a lot. It also is nice being able to adjust the crimp without having to worry about re-adjusting the bullet seating.

Joe W.

[darwin-t]

That's the way I use mine! I thought I had an original idea, then I come here and see a lot of other people do it,too.

I installed a white LED under the turret so I can see the charge. I even ground away the corner of what woud hold a left front post if there WAS a left front post. I can really see down into the case.

With the powder measure in station number 1 I don't see a way to use the chain. I use the powder measure with the spring from my turret press.

And yes, the case feeder works wonderfully.

[Tom-n8ies]

I contacted the factory in early 2006 about doing the same thing here is what I got back from Lee on the topic.

from Lee Reloader <leereloader@yahoo.com>

It might work in theory but:

You'd have to modify the press or the powder measure

to make it work in station 1.

Unless you operate the press left-handed, it would be

inconvenient to insert bullets in station 2.

I just leave a sizing die (sans decapping pin) in

station 1, bell/charge in station 2, and seat/crimp in

station 3.

--- Thomas Oliver <tsoliver@tir.com> wrote:

> I am thinking about buying one of these to reload

> pistol cartriges and was wondering if I can do this:

>

> If I use pre primed and sized cases (done elsewhere)

> could I use the pro 1000 as follows stage one

> powder stage two seat stage three

>

> factory crimp. Do you think this would work or

> would the second stage position be too tricky to put

> a bullet into?

>

> Thanks for your thoughts.

>

> tom

[joecichlid]

Tom-n8ies, it only requires getting a different lever and a spring and both of them can be bought from Lee or Midway USA for a little over $3 plus shipping. I have been using this set up for a year and many thousands of rounds without a problem.

Joe W.

[sharkjuju]

I appreciate the replys. I removed the priming system entirely. Since I am left handed it is no problem to operate the handle with the left hand and place the bullet with the right hand. I stop the press with the powder filled case half way to station 2-I find it easier to place the bullet there than doing it at station 2. I use a small LED reading light with a gooseneck to light up this area so I can check the powder height in the case. I use the auto disk powder measure with the spring return-works great.

The primary problem I have (I am loading .40 S&W) is an occasional case falls over as the case feeder slide starts to move foreward. I have found that only 10 cases per case feeder tube helps a lot with this problem (I believe the problem is probably associated with the clearance between the bottom of the tube in use and the 'slider'). I am getting the case collator-I think this will greatly improve my thru put (kind of a pain to hand load the case feeder tubes).

I finally got a good, up close look at a Dillon 650. Mighty fine looking machine. The Dillon guarantee is well respected. I started to read some of the tips/tricks/problems for Dillon presses on this web site. Did you know that there are problems with Dillons too? Some it is scary-to me at least . Esp the priming problems some people have. It is great that the priming system is built strong enough to withstand all the primers detonating all at once-I just am not particulary interested in experiencing it.

Since I have gotten used to the Pro 1000 set up to run preprimed cases, it turns out all the ammo I need in a reasonable amount of time-a couple 100 rounds a month. During my next reloading session I'm going to keep track of my output per hour. I do check OAL and powder drop weight about every 40 rounds. This is one issue that is not discussed when people quote production rate-do they stop to make some fundimental checks? I would like to see some legitimate production rates for the more popular presses.

I did have a good object lesson concerning paying attention to what you are doing as you reload. I do have a problem I am still trying to figure out. I seat the bullet in station 2 and use a Lee FCD in station 3. I thought the Lee FCD only crimped and did not seat the bullet any deeper in the case. I have found that the FCD die die does seat the bullet a little deeper (by several .001 s). Anyway, I thought maybe by using a slight double pump at the bottom of the stroke (handle in full down position, release the pressure and then bottom out again) might resolve this problem. All was going well until I had a bullet that refused to seat to the proper dept in station 2. As you probably figured out, I slightly raised the handle and then double pumped-this put a double charge in the case . Fortunately I read some silly suggection somewhere ( I believe in Lee's Reloading) that if the good Lord makes cases of X capacity, it is a good idea to use a powder that requires something around a min of 50/60% of X so if you do double charge you have a good chance of catching it. I changed my routine to visually check every case for powder height (one of those silly reloading suggestions I did NOT adopt in the begining)-the LED light mentioned earlier helps a lot (YES, the Dillon powder checker IS a GOOD feature!). Early on in my limited reloading career I wondered if it was a good idea to use a small amount of a very fast powder to save a few bucks on total reloading costs-the chance for a double or even a triple chage going undetected is not worth the $ saving to me.

Enough of my rant-again thanks for the suggestions. The press works well for my needs and at this time I don't see the need to move up.

I am now putting on my asbestos suit and helmet to fend off the BLUEs.