rooster mcbee Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 I have a new TRR8 that I'm doing a little smoothing on. It has a part inside that I'm not familiar with. Research shows that it is a Bolt Block. Apparently, it slides up between the cylinder release and the frame at some point in the operation. I plan on leaving the hammer block out when I reassemble, should I leave out this Bolt Block too? I can't really figure out what its purpose is or what activates it. Thanks, Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 Is it part of the storage lock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10mmdave Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 (edited) The pivot pin on the hand goes into a notch on the bolt block, when the trigger is pulled all the way back the bolt rises up and prevents the bolt (the internal part that the cylinder release attaches to) from moving forward under recoil, thus un-locking the cylinder. (IIRC) Edited February 29 by 10mmdave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rooster mcbee Posted February 29 Author Share Posted February 29 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rooster mcbee Posted February 29 Author Share Posted February 29 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triplesinglestack Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 If I'm not mistaken, you can remove a few of the parts in the photos, without any issues. Also there is a kit to block the hole left behind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triplesinglestack Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 Also looking good on the clean up work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 (edited) I would leave the bolt block in, just for reliability insurance . The hand on guns with this feature have an extended length hand pivot pin to engage the slot of the bolt block. You can leave out the storage lock and put in the hole plug. Also remove the hammer block if you want. I leave the hammer block in all of my guns. It's a good safety feature, and doesn't hurt anything. Edited February 29 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 7 hours ago, Toolguy said: I would leave the bolt block in, just for reliability insurance . The hand on guns with this feature have an extended length hand pivot pin to engage the slot of the bolt block. You can leave out the storage lock and put in the hole plug. Also remove the hammer block if you want. I leave the hammer block in all of my guns. It's a good safety feature, and doesn't hurt anything. And bianchi requires the flag be left in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted March 3 Share Posted March 3 For a pure competition gun, you can delete the bolt block. It only comes into play when shooting very hot magnum loads. Like the hammer block, it's just one more friction-creating moving part you don't need on a competition revolver. Toolguy knows more about revolvers than just about anybody here, but I don't understand his comment that removing one of these bolt blocks could possibly create a reliability problem. That extended hand pin will cause no issue--the extended part just hangs there in space. BTW, most S&Ws don't have the bolt block. It was originally developed to enhance reliability for the big-bore 29/629 magnum series. Somebody must have decided it was also a good idea for the alloy-frame Model 327, in case they are used with hot magnum ammo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted March 3 Share Posted March 3 The 327 is a lightweight gun, and we don't know what kind of loads will be used. Regular or even +P target loads don't need the bolt block. Major Power Factor or Magnum loads may (or may not) need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rooster mcbee Posted March 3 Author Share Posted March 3 Just to clear up how I'm going to use the 327, it's going to be a dedicated Steel Challenge revolver, and I will be using .38 special brass and bullets left over from my cowboy action shooting days. I've bought moon clips for the .38 specials and have developed a 100 PF load. I'm excited to compete with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted March 3 Share Posted March 3 It should be a great choice for SC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 (edited) A little belated- Thanks for the kind words, Mike. That's a very high compliment in my book, considering the source. Edited March 6 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 Warren, you have been a valuable and forthcoming source of great information and insight over the years--for all of us! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 I think of the revo people as my friends, even though I haven't met some of them, so I try to help them as my skill set allows. I have a lot of good local revo friends, too. It's kind of a tight community. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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