Petrov Posted June 19, 2023 Share Posted June 19, 2023 (edited) Hey folks my trigger is not very consistent, actually it is terrible. There is a tight spot there. It is not the cylinder and barrel touching. I did take out my crane and found something interesting: Video of the crane. Extractor rod I think I am going to have to send it to gun smith to get looked at and fixed. Any ideas if what is happening with the crane is normal? Also any suggestions for a good revolver gun smith? Edited June 19, 2023 by Petrov Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gargoil66 Posted June 19, 2023 Share Posted June 19, 2023 9 hours ago, Petrov said: Hey folks my trigger is not very consistent, actually it is terrible. There is a tight spot there. It is not the cylinder and barrel touching. I did take out my crane and found something interesting: Video of the crane. Extractor rod I think I am going to have to send it to gun smith to get looked at and fixed. Any ideas if what is happening with the crane is normal? Also any suggestions for a good revolver gun smith? Petrov: May want to measure the crane using a calipers to see if there is a high spot. I didn't see the type of wear that would indicate to me a problem though. Seems like the crane is fine to me. The extractor rod surely looks like it is not perfectly straight. Question is does it matter? Need the gunsmith guru's here to offer their advice. I had the same problem and it dealt with the trigger, hammer, and cylinder stop. Had to send it to TK Custom and they found out the problem and fixed it. Super reliable and a great trigger pull now. GG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted June 19, 2023 Share Posted June 19, 2023 (edited) The ejector rod doesn't have enough runout to matter. It's straighter than a lot of them. If there was a bulge in the crane barrel that was causing a problem, it would have a shiny spot where it was rubbing. You can smooth out the roughness on the crane barrel by holding the front part in a vise and using some fine emery cloth in a shoe shine manner on the crane barrel. I would go with 400 grit or finer. Edited June 19, 2023 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted June 19, 2023 Author Share Posted June 19, 2023 15 minutes ago, Toolguy said: The ejector rod doesn't have enough runout to matter. It's straighter than a lot of them. If there was a bulge in the crane barrel that was causing a problem, it would have a shiny spot where it was rubbing. You can smooth out the roughness on the crane barrel by holding the front part in a vise and using some fine emery cloth in a shoe shine manner on the crane barrel. I would go with 400 grit or finer. I dont know if it can bee seen well in the video but the first 3/4 of the crane barrel is untouched and the last 1/4 is where all the rub marks are. The issue is much more pronounced when I load and try to shoot live ammo. One side I have a beatiful smooth trigger and on the other it is well... atrocious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted June 19, 2023 Author Share Posted June 19, 2023 35 minutes ago, gargoil66 said: Petrov: May want to measure the crane using a calipers to see if there is a high spot. I didn't see the type of wear that would indicate to me a problem though. Seems like the crane is fine to me. The extractor rod surely looks like it is not perfectly straight. Question is does it matter? Need the gunsmith guru's here to offer their advice. I had the same problem and it dealt with the trigger, hammer, and cylinder stop. Had to send it to TK Custom and they found out the problem and fixed it. Super reliable and a great trigger pull now. GG The extractor rod doesnt touch the barrel lug so I dont think so? I will measure with my caliper thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted June 19, 2023 Share Posted June 19, 2023 Since it's already been modified, has what looks like a ppc or bianchi adaptation, I'd send it to tk. Wonder if the crane was stretched? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted June 19, 2023 Author Share Posted June 19, 2023 I ordered a crane alignment rod to rule some stuff out. Honestly at this point I am willing to drop hundreds of dollars on specialist tools because it will be less hassle to figure this out myself with whole shipping of handgun mess and all the running around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted June 19, 2023 Author Share Posted June 19, 2023 My headspace is 0.072 My back and forth (endshake?) Cylinder movement is about 0.002. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted June 19, 2023 Author Share Posted June 19, 2023 (edited) Crane measurements crane measure .3825 in nice clean area and .3850 in the worn area I also did the trick where you pushed on the locked cylinder and move the cylinder release bolt and it did hang up in certain positions. Edited June 19, 2023 by Petrov Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
625 Posted June 19, 2023 Share Posted June 19, 2023 How does the trigger movement feel with the cylinder removed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted June 20, 2023 Author Share Posted June 20, 2023 front of the barrel lug doesnt touch the extractor rod so I have to hold it in. But it seems that there is no tight spots with me holding it down. 1 hour ago, 625 said: How does the trigger movement feel with the cylinder removed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted June 20, 2023 Author Share Posted June 20, 2023 (edited) Video with the cylinder I also noticed something. Where the trigger pull is normal I can hear the cylinder catch snapping into the cylinder slot as I stage the trigger before it breaks. On the tight spot? There is no transition of that it basically snaps in place and the hammer falls there is no staging. Edited June 20, 2023 by Petrov Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farmer Posted June 20, 2023 Share Posted June 20, 2023 Crane bent? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted June 20, 2023 Author Share Posted June 20, 2023 Possibly? Would that cause the gun to bind? I also noticed something. One of the chambers is out of timing, the cylinder catch slots in the recess almost at the same time as the hammer falls. On the opposite side of the cylinder it seems to slot in on time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted June 20, 2023 Share Posted June 20, 2023 Could be a worn ratchet on the late one. Hard to diagnose some of these things long distance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted June 20, 2023 Author Share Posted June 20, 2023 So logically when the whole revolver has timing problems it is probably the hand and when it is one or two chambers it is usually the ratchet? What is the remedy for that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted June 20, 2023 Share Posted June 20, 2023 Yes, that is usually the situation. When all chambers have late timing, the hand is probably too thin. A wider hand will make it lock up sooner. When one or two chambers are late and the rest are OK, it is usually the ratchets related to those chambers that are different from the others. In that case, you can peen the offending ones to make them wider towards the hand, or get a new extractor (with new ratchets on it). Working on the ratchets is the most fiddly part of revolver work. It's easy to mess them up so they don't work at all. It's best not to mess with them if at all possible unless you are already experienced at it. Experience is what you get right after you need it. Sometimes you can bend the hand inward (towards the center pin of the cylinder) slightly to advance the timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted June 20, 2023 Author Share Posted June 20, 2023 Would this out of time on one or two chambers cause binding/ heavier/inconsistent trigger pull on my revolver? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted June 20, 2023 Share Posted June 20, 2023 No - that is something else. BTW - The hand won't bend, but it's pivot pin will. If you leave it on the trigger, you can usually bend it over very slightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farmer Posted June 20, 2023 Share Posted June 20, 2023 7 hours ago, Petrov said: Possibly? Would that cause the gun to bind? I also noticed something. One of the chambers is out of timing, the cylinder catch slots in the recess almost at the same time as the hammer falls. On the opposite side of the cylinder it seems to slot in on time. I would check the clearance between the cylinder and the recoil shield to see if it varies as the cylinder turns. Or the clearance between the cylinder and barrel to see if it’s even. If it’s not square it could bind and also throw timing off. Look for other wear patterns too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted June 21, 2023 Author Share Posted June 21, 2023 5 hours ago, Farmer said: I would check the clearance between the cylinder and the recoil shield to see if it varies as the cylinder turns. Or the clearance between the cylinder and barrel to see if it’s even. If it’s not square it could bind and also throw timing off. Look for other wear patterns too. Tightest barrel to cylinder spot is 0.003 on the opposite side of the cylinder the fit is 0.005. Something else I noticed about the side that 0.005 clearance. Kinda hard to explain so I made a video: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farmer Posted June 21, 2023 Share Posted June 21, 2023 1 hour ago, Petrov said: Tightest barrel to cylinder spot is 0.003 on the opposite side of the cylinder the fit is 0.005. Something else I noticed about the side that 0.005 clearance. Kinda hard to explain so I made a video: Now that could also be that the barrel isn’t cut square. But check the clearance at the back by the shield to see if it follows the same trend. It should be opposite of the front. Also rotate the cyl 180 and check the front clearance to see if it changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted June 21, 2023 Author Share Posted June 21, 2023 21 minutes ago, Farmer said: Now that could also be that the barrel isn’t cut square. But check the clearance at the back by the shield to see if it follows the same trend. It should be opposite of the front. Also rotate the cyl 180 and check the front clearance to see if it changes. The front of the cylinder has been very kindly faced by a nice gentleman. It has been fing atrocious from the factory like wobbly wheel bad but got fixed. So I checked and the tight side switched places left to right on the barrel and cylinder interface, same for back of cylinder and balst shield. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gargoil66 Posted June 21, 2023 Share Posted June 21, 2023 7 hours ago, Petrov said: The front of the cylinder has been very kindly faced by a nice gentleman. It has been fing atrocious from the factory like wobbly wheel bad but got fixed. So I checked and the tight side switched places left to right on the barrel and cylinder interface, same for back of cylinder and balst shield. Petrov: Sounds a bit like my problem. Sent it to TK and had it back in a couple of weeks. The problem was trigger, hammer, and cylinder stop. Very complicated and way beyond me to troubleshoot or fix. If I were you I would call TK Custom and talk to them about it and then decide. Right now I think you are bouncing off of one potential issue and then another without being able to make a conclusion or determine a course of action. GG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farmer Posted June 21, 2023 Share Posted June 21, 2023 14 hours ago, Petrov said: The front of the cylinder has been very kindly faced by a nice gentleman. It has been fing atrocious from the factory like wobbly wheel bad but got fixed. So I checked and the tight side switched places left to right on the barrel and cylinder interface, same for back of cylinder and balst shield. I was going to suggest what gargoil66 has suggested. Reason being is if the crane was bent the clearances wouldn’t change side to side or up and down as the cylinder is rotated. They generally stay wider at one side than the other and at opposite sides front to back. Yours almost sounds like the cylinder bore was drilled crooked or not square. Unless you have dial indicators it would be hard to tell and there could be other issues like gargoil66 stated. I also know it’s a pain sending things off for repairs but most of the time you’ll be money and time ahead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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