Petrov Posted June 22, 2023 Author Share Posted June 22, 2023 (edited) Checked with a dial indicator while it was sitting on the crane 0.0015 runout on the ass end of the cylinder. I pulled the trigger slightly and turned the cylinder by hand and there is definite tight spot I can feel when I turn it by hand. I did the same thing again but pushed the cylinder release button forward and turned the cylinder again the the bind was gone Edited June 22, 2023 by Petrov Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted June 22, 2023 Author Share Posted June 22, 2023 (edited) Took the long pin out of the extractor out the one that pushes on the cylinder bolt. Cylinder spins freely with no problems now. Going to replace that and see if it fixes the issue. Edited June 22, 2023 by Petrov Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted June 22, 2023 Share Posted June 22, 2023 For future reference, that is called the center pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted June 22, 2023 Author Share Posted June 22, 2023 29 minutes ago, Toolguy said: For future reference, that is called the center pin. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farmer Posted June 22, 2023 Share Posted June 22, 2023 Beings you have an indicator check the center pin and extractor for runout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted June 23, 2023 Author Share Posted June 23, 2023 My alignment gage came in and oh boy. Would not go in I had to push the crane hard all the way to the right for it to go in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farmer Posted June 24, 2023 Share Posted June 24, 2023 Look very closely (with magnification) at the recoil shield on the left hand side for signs of dings or dents. Have seen cranes get bent when cases aren’t fully in the cylinder and someone tries to slam the cyl shut. I also re-watched your video of the rub marks on the crane and noticed one at the front and one at the back opposite side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted June 25, 2023 Author Share Posted June 25, 2023 20 hours ago, Farmer said: Look very closely (with magnification) at the recoil shield on the left hand side for signs of dings or dents. Have seen cranes get bent when cases aren’t fully in the cylinder and someone tries to slam the cyl shut. I also re-watched your video of the rub marks on the crane and noticed one at the front and one at the back opposite side. No dings or dents, I used a l10x loupe and I used a hard pick to see if there are any lips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted June 27, 2023 Author Share Posted June 27, 2023 (edited) Tried a new center pin and it did not change how the cylinder and the trigger behaved. I did put in a new oversized hand into the revolver to try it out but it binds up about 1/2 way through the trigger pull. Cylinder locks in place and the hand doesnt slip over the ratchet. Edit: Forgot to mention i did straighten the yoke somewhat with my hands and it did noticeably improve the trigger pull with the chambers that were binding. Going to get power custom tools to straighten it out right. Edit 2: I manually held down the cylinder catch and the hand rotated the cylinder just fine. Edited June 27, 2023 by Petrov Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted June 30, 2023 Author Share Posted June 30, 2023 Hey a quick question. I ordered a spare cylinder and hand and extractor that I will probably ruin and I cant find the instructions in the shop manual. What should be the bearing surface with the blast shield / extractor star interaction? The little circle in the middle or the ratchet stars themselves rubbing on the shield? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted June 30, 2023 Share Posted June 30, 2023 Yes. That circle is all that should touch the recoil shield. The top of the ratchets should be about .005 below the surface of the circle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted June 30, 2023 Author Share Posted June 30, 2023 49 minutes ago, Toolguy said: Yes. That circle is all that should touch the recoil shield. The top of the ratchets should be about .005 below the surface of the circle. Well s#!t that explains a lot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farmer Posted July 1, 2023 Share Posted July 1, 2023 You thinkin you found part of the problem??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted July 1, 2023 Author Share Posted July 1, 2023 (edited) Well besides the bent crane I have the ratchets dragging on the shield. I used a sharpie to mark that circle on the cylinder that us supposed to be the bearing surface and its untouched and the ratchets hand the marker rub off right away. Edited July 1, 2023 by Petrov Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted July 1, 2023 Share Posted July 1, 2023 That is definitely a problem area. I would get a new extractor if possible. Otherwise, that one needs to be reworked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted July 5, 2023 Author Share Posted July 5, 2023 Going slowly marking with a sharpie and using a very fine stone I am slowly lowering the ratchet protrusions. There is way less binding now. I still have timing issues with 2 chambers where the cylinder catch and hammer drop at the same time almost but that is probably a hand project that I will need a diamond file for so I can cut away part of the nose for the new hand so it clears the ratchet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted July 5, 2023 Share Posted July 5, 2023 It sounds like you're on the right track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted July 10, 2023 Author Share Posted July 10, 2023 Well I found the main culprit of a tight spot on the cylinder. Lower part of the crane was ... well it was a bit too long (the part that goes in the revolver frame. I gently filed some with a very fine stone and the tight spot is gone when I turn the cylinder by hand. I also got a range rod with a match attachment and my cylinder and barrel alignment is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted July 13, 2023 Author Share Posted July 13, 2023 As I work on this revolver I just learn more and more interesting things. I installed an oversized cylinder stop with minimal fitting. Two of my chambers have timing that is "late" hammer drops almost at the same time as the cylinder stop locks in. I I had the firing pin out and when the firing in out and I pull the trigger the cylinder stop is a hair away from locking the cylinder but stop just short enough. Put the firing pin back in and it its back to locking up. I have been up until 4am filing and messing with power custom cylinder arm trying to get it to fit and work. So far the trigger binds up in the last 5% of the trigger pull, but if I pull the trigger fast like shooting a stage it works just fine with no binding. Yes the manual says file the hand window but I am not willing to do that as the hand I dont mind screwing up but the revolver itself? This is frustrating and rewarding at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted July 17, 2023 Author Share Posted July 17, 2023 Had a chance to compare my new extractor to my old and it was obvious to the naked eye how different and inconsistent and smaller my stars were. So after everything: I fixed the bent crane Squared up the end of the crane on which the cylinder was rotating around Put in new factory extractor Put in new factory cylinder hand Put in power custom cylinder stop Revolver back to normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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