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Cylinder binding problem?


Petrov

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Checked with a dial indicator while it was sitting on the crane 0.0015 runout on the ass end of the cylinder.

I pulled the trigger slightly and  turned the cylinder  by  hand and there is definite tight spot I can feel when I turn it by hand.  

 

I did the same thing again but pushed the cylinder release button forward and turned the cylinder again the the bind was gone

Edited by Petrov
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Took the long pin out of the extractor out the one that pushes on the cylinder bolt. Cylinder spins freely with no problems now. Going to replace that and see if it fixes the issue.

Screenshot_20230622_115535_Gallery.jpg

Edited by Petrov
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Look very closely (with magnification) at the recoil shield on the left hand side for signs of dings or dents. Have seen cranes get bent when cases aren’t fully in the cylinder and someone tries to slam the cyl shut. I also re-watched your video of the rub marks on the crane and noticed one at the front and one at the back opposite side. 

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20 hours ago, Farmer said:

Look very closely (with magnification) at the recoil shield on the left hand side for signs of dings or dents. Have seen cranes get bent when cases aren’t fully in the cylinder and someone tries to slam the cyl shut. I also re-watched your video of the rub marks on the crane and noticed one at the front and one at the back opposite side. 

No  dings  or dents, I  used a l10x loupe and I used a hard pick to see if there are any lips.

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Tried a new center pin and it did not change how the cylinder and the trigger behaved. I did put in a new oversized hand into the revolver to try it out but it binds up about 1/2 way through the trigger pull. Cylinder locks in place and the hand doesnt slip over the ratchet.

 

Edit: Forgot to mention i did straighten the yoke somewhat with my hands and it did noticeably improve the trigger pull with the chambers that were binding. Going to get power custom tools to straighten it out right. 

 

Edit 2: I manually held down the cylinder catch and the hand rotated the cylinder just fine.

Edited by Petrov
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Hey a quick question. I ordered a spare cylinder and hand and extractor that I will probably ruin and I cant find the instructions in the shop manual. What should be the bearing surface with the blast shield / extractor star interaction? The little circle in the middle or the ratchet stars themselves rubbing on the shield?

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49 minutes ago, Toolguy said:

Yes. That circle is all that should touch the recoil shield. The top of the ratchets should be about .005 below the surface of the circle.

Well s#!t that explains a lot

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Well besides the bent crane I have the ratchets dragging on the shield.

I used a sharpie to mark that circle on the cylinder that us supposed to be the bearing surface and its untouched and the ratchets hand the marker rub off right away.

Edited by Petrov
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Going slowly marking with a sharpie and using a very fine stone I am slowly lowering the ratchet protrusions. There is way less binding now. I still have timing issues with 2 chambers where the cylinder catch and hammer drop at the same time almost but that is probably a hand project that I will need a diamond file for so I can cut away part of the nose for the new hand so it clears the ratchet.

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Well I found the main  culprit of a tight spot on the cylinder. Lower part of the crane was ... well it was a bit too long (the part that goes in the revolver frame. I gently filed some with a very fine stone and the tight spot is gone when I turn the cylinder by hand. I also got a range rod with a match attachment and my cylinder and barrel alignment is good.

 

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As I work on this revolver I just learn more and more interesting things. I installed an oversized cylinder stop with minimal fitting. Two of my chambers have timing that is "late" hammer drops almost at the same time as the cylinder stop locks in. I  I had the firing pin out and when the firing in out and I pull the trigger the cylinder stop is a hair away from locking the cylinder but stop just short enough. Put the firing pin back in and it its back to locking up.

I have been up until 4am filing and messing with power custom cylinder arm trying to get it to fit and work. 

So far the trigger binds up in the last 5% of the trigger pull, but if I pull the trigger fast like shooting a stage it works just fine with no binding. 

Yes the manual says file the hand window but I am not willing to do that as the hand I dont mind screwing up but the revolver itself? 

This is frustrating and rewarding at the same time. 

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Had  a chance to compare my new extractor to my old and it was obvious to the naked eye how different and  inconsistent and smaller my stars were. So after everything:

I fixed the bent crane 

Squared up the end of the crane on which  the cylinder was rotating around

Put in new factory extractor

Put in new factory cylinder hand

Put in power custom cylinder stop

 

Revolver back to normal.

 

 

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