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Stove pipes in TS2 with aftermarket 9mm barrel


midatlantic

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Hi - have a .40 TS2 in which Ive installed a CZCustom 9mm barrel. 

 

when shooting 9mm I get a regular diet of failure to fully extract. See photos. I've installed a 9mm extractor, and have tried various combination of springs, magazine and recoil. Currently running an 11 lb recoil.

 

The rounds used here were Remington 115s, but it happens with a variety of rounds, reloads as well as commercial.

 

It occurs somewhere between rounds 5 and 15,,,,varies, not consistent

 

Anyone have any ideas on what's going on?

 

FYI - a note:

If you look carefully at third photo it shows that the barrel struck the cartridge before the cartridge was fully clear.

 

 

and doesn't do it with factory 40 barrel

 

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Edited by midatlantic
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Something is slowing down the slide.  The only thing changed is the barrel.  What I have done  is to reduce the diameter of the barrel between the locking lug area and the bushing.  Clamp the muzzle area in the chuck of a drill press.  Spin the barrel and apply 80 grit sand paper and reduce diameter approx .020 in.  This should keep the barrel from rubbing the slide and slowing it down.

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This is because of .40 breachface dimensions (assuming you are still using a .40 slide)!

Check dimensions & compare to 9mm then you will realize the differences. the 9mm extractor does not go deep enough into the rim since the case rim can move away from the extractor since the breach face is wider than on a 9mm.

 

There are possible work arounds for this by adjusting the depth of the 9mm extractor.

Edited by Ludde
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You might have to thin out the extractor for it to go in far enough to get a good grip on the case. Take off the slide take out guide rod spring and barrel. Take a 9mm case and put it on breach face under extractor. Push the case away from extractor on breach to see how much of the extractor is holding the case. Then in that position see if you can move extractor inward towards case. If it doesn't move inward you will have to remove some metal from the extractor so it can move inward to get more of a grip on case for removal. If you can move the extractor inward a heavier spring just might do the job. At least that's my theory.

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On 6/2/2023 at 4:02 PM, midatlantic said:

Ah…that’s probably it…question is how to adjust depth of extractor. Slightly longer spring to push extractor edge inward? Suggestions welcome. 

Let me know if you need some guidance.

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13 hours ago, midatlantic said:

Hi Ludde - advice is welcome, a stronger spring or perhaps a few file strokes on the small inside edge of the extractor between the hook and pin hole, which rests against the frame? 

Generally speaking I would stay away from extra power extractor springs, unless there is something wrong that would require it, such as e.g. rough chamber surface, if using extra power extractor spring it is important to check that you do not get problems with feeding. Usually they require good magsprings as well because it has to push the case with more force up from the mag in under the extractor (extractor has to move out of the way a tad).

In your case, most likely a stronger extractor spring will have no positive impact on the extraction. You extractor is most likely already bottoming out on the extractor depth pad that contacts the extractor slot in the slide.

What you need to do is to gently remove some material from the extractor depth pad to allow for the extractor to move in deeper and thus being able to apply some tension to the case rim while it is being extracted.

As it is now your extractor slips of the rim when the case rim is moving away from the extractor before it is stopped by the opposit side of the breach face.

 

The extractor depth should be such that it has to move out just a little bit when the case rim is slid up under the extractor.



 

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thanks for the advice Ludde and Redhemi. Worked.

 

Took gun to range today and emptied all four magazines, about 90 rounds, with no stove pipes. Three different rounds - syntec 150s, 124 and 115 Remington and Blazer. All worked fine.

 

I took about .05  mm off the extractor depth pad. Placed it in vise, slowly filed with a 1911 lug file - turned out to be perfect for job - and used black magic marker between every two strokes to keep the face flat and square. A 9mm case placed in extractor now just touches the inside edge of the breech face and remains locked into the extractor. (this is a 9mm extractor, which now differs from CZ's .40 extractor.) 

Edited by midatlantic
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3 hours ago, midatlantic said:

thanks for the advice Ludde and Redhemi. Worked.

 

Took gun to range today and emptied all four magazines, about 90 rounds, with no stove pipes. Three different rounds - syntec 150s, 124 and 115 Remington and Blazer. All worked fine.

 

I took about .05  mm off the extractor depth pad. Placed it in vise, slowly filed with a 1911 lug file - turned out to be perfect for job - and used black magic marker between every two strokes to keep the face flat and square. A 9mm case placed in extractor now just touches the inside edge of the breech face and remains locked into the extractor. (this is a 9mm extractor, which now differs from CZ's .40 extractor.) 

Good deal and glad it worked out for you. Now go out and shoot and enjoy some more. Be safe and have fun.

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  • 2 weeks later...

my upper is from Fire4Effect, and they are no longer in business but I was able to reach them on Facebook. He mentioned once I fit the barrel in, and swap out extractor, should be gtg, so I don't THINK so? I was using the .40 S&W extractor without any issues but swapped it out for the sake of having all 9mm parts in there. Maybe I need to look at the 40 extractor and see how different the shapes are compared to 9mm extractor. 

Edited by khogau
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image.png.510089bbbd5859c964055eef71145a6f.png

 

Can I get some guidance of where to file for the 9mm extractor? It's a CGW HD 9mm extractor. Looks beefier than the 40 extractor for sure. Where exactly is the extractor depth pad? New to platform, so I could use some help. thanks

Edited by khogau
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Hi. The depth pad  is the hump above the yellow line.  Filing off a bit of material allows the extractor hook to move to the left and get  a better grip on the 9 mm cartridges.
 

Have to add that my attempt, which seemed to work, has now failed and I’m getting stovepipes again. Going to take off a bit more material 

IMG_0062.jpeg

Edited by midatlantic
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16 hours ago, khogau said:

my upper is from Fire4Effect, and they are no longer in business but I was able to reach them on Facebook. He mentioned once I fit the barrel in, and swap out extractor, should be gtg, so I don't THINK so? I was using the .40 S&W extractor without any issues but swapped it out for the sake of having all 9mm parts in there. Maybe I need to look at the 40 extractor and see how different the shapes are compared to 9mm extractor. 

 

As I explained in the previous posts, please read that through. The breach face dimensions are different, unless you are really lucky, just swapping extractor does not cut it. Adjust depth to achieve the required "pinch".

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4 hours ago, Ludde said:

 

As I explained in the previous posts, please read that through. The breach face dimensions are different, unless you are really lucky, just swapping extractor does not cut it. Adjust depth to achieve the required "pinch".

 

Thank you, @Ludde. I filed enough off the extractor depth pad to get the extractor's claw to hold onto the rim of the casing when inserted into the breech face channel. It was close to .3mm filed off!! I was getting one FTE every 100 or so rounds before. I'll run a couple hundred rounds through today and report back... 

Edited by khogau
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When I converted my TS1 from 40 to 9, I needed to play with hammer spring and recoil spring power.

You need to lighten both so it can travel back far enough for extraction and to have the power to bring the next one home. I say get lighter springs, I've went as low as 11# on my TS with an extended firing pin, and I've also went as low as 8# RS with lighter loads.

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