SVI ambi safety issues

[TheChef1]

Was going to fit a brand new SVI safety I bought directly from SVI. I haven’t filed anything year. It dropped in without filing but will drop the hammer when I wiggle it and will drop the hammer when trigger is pulled in safe position. I’ve only fit one other safety before but I had to file material just to get it in and more to get it to work properly. 
 

this one seems like there’s not enough material to start? https://imgur.com/a/Bus1uNZ

[HOGRIDER]

You may want to call SVI and see if you can exchange the safety for one with a larger engagement surface.  If not, and you decide to keep it, it will need some "peening" to take up the sear to safety fit.  Or in worst case, some welding to build up a new engagement surface.

 

https://www.brazoscustom.com/post/fitting-an-ambi-safety

 

HTHs

[scooterj]

Is it possible that the sear was fit to the safety and not the other way?  I have seen this done before. 

[TheChef1]

24 minutes ago, scooterj said:

Is it possible that the sear was fit to the safety and not the other way?  I have seen this done before. 

I suppose it’s possible as the gun is second hand but I think it has the stock Trojan internals. 

 

1 hour ago, HOGRIDER said:

You may want to call SVI and see if you can exchange the safety for one with a larger engagement surface.  If not, and you decide to keep it, it will need some "peening" to take up the sear to safety fit.  Or in worst case, some welding to build up a new engagement surface.

 

https://www.brazoscustom.com/post/fitting-an-ambi-safety

 

HTHs

That’s a good read. Thank you. I think I’ll cave and take my first gun ever to a gunsmith. I guess I used all my luck with the SVI trigger pretty much dropping in perfectly.

[yigal]

2 hours ago, scooterj said:

Is it possible that the sear was fit to the safety and not the other way?  I have seen this done before. 

yes.

i always do this way in all types of guns cz and 2011/1911 guns. because if you want to replace internal parts with something else, the safety  will not be damaged.

sear cost 10-20$

safety 100$-$200

[TheChef1]

7 hours ago, yigal said:

yes.

i always do this way in all types of guns cz and 2011/1911 guns. because if you want to replace internal parts with something else, the safety  will not be damaged.

sear cost 10-20$

safety 100$-$200

Yeah the safety was $135 so I guess it’s not the end of the world if I need to fit a new sear. Although the trigger is so good right now at 1lb 10oz I’d hate to have too. 

[TheSandMan491]

Can you post a picture of the existing safety (Prior to the SVI part), specifically the locking block, and the sear in question. 
 

I helped a friend work on his Trojan a while back (one of the first Gen ones with the horse head rollmark) and lots of things were strangely out of spec. For example, the distance from the bottom of frame to the bottom grip bushing was way longer than any of my guns (even my 2 second Gen Trojans), and so his techwell magwell wouldn’t fit.  
 

this Trojan also had a big Chunk of weld added onto its safety’s locking block to make it “reach” the sear to block it. 

Edited April 26, 2023 by TheSandMan491

[HOGRIDER]

1 hour ago, TheChef1 said:

Yeah the safety was $135 so I guess it’s not the end of the world if I need to fit a new sear. Although the trigger is so good right now at 1lb 10oz I’d hate to have too. 

IMO, if you have a 100% safe, fully functional <2# trigger, then I don't think you have a standard "drop in" fire control group.  So what's it going to cost, in addition to the price of the sear, for a gunsmith to fit/tune a new sear to your existing trigger system?

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Aiden]

This sounds like a good opportunity to upgrade the rest of the ignition to SV. New hammer, new sear, all to match the trigger and safety. If you think the factory Trojan is good now, the SV will be better. 

 

But yes, post pictures of the sear itself to rule out it being fit, and the current safety. 

[TheChef1]

19 minutes ago, Aiden said:

This sounds like a good opportunity to upgrade the rest of the ignition to SV. New hammer, new sear, all to match the trigger and safety. If you think the factory Trojan is good now, the SV will be better. 

 

But yes, post pictures of the sear itself to rule out it being fit, and the current safety. 

I just got  off the phone  with SVI. he said the same thing that most likely the  sear was fit to the safety and not vise versa. He also recommended just getting the SVI ignition kit. Do you think I could just get the sear? $36 vs $184 makes it sound appealing to just try a sear.

Edited April 26, 2023 by TheChef1

[TheChef1]

34 minutes ago, HOGRIDER said:

IMO, if you have a 100% safe, fully functional <2# trigger, then I don't think you have a standard "drop in" fire control group.  So what's it going to cost, in addition to the price of the sear, for a gunsmith to fit/tune a new sear to your existing trigger system?

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm not sure exactly what your asking/stating.

1 hour ago, TheSandMan491 said:

Can you post a picture of the existing safety (Prior to the SVI part), specifically the locking block, and the sear in question. 
 

I helped a friend work on his Trojan a while back (one of the first Gen ones with the horse head rollmark) and lots of things were strangely out of spec. For example, the distance from the bottom of frame to the bottom grip bushing was way longer than any of my guns (even my 2 second Gen Trojans), and so his techwell magwell wouldn’t fit.  
 

this Trojan also had a big Chunk of weld added onto its safety’s locking block to make it “reach” the sear to block it. 

Yeah ill get some pictures shortly thank you.

[Aiden]

10 minutes ago, TheChef1 said:

I just got  off the phone  with SVI. he said the same thing that most likely the  sear was fit to the safety and not vise versa. He also recommended just getting the SVI ignition kit. Do you think I could just get the sear? $36 vs $184 makes it sound appealing to just try a sear.

 

No. Generally speaking you have fewer headaches the less you mix and match parts in a 1911. A hammer and a sear should match each other as best they can. 

 

Then whatever safety you use, you match it to the sear you have. 

 

You can bag the STI ignition and safety and keep it for a backup/build/etc since it all works together. 

[TheChef1]

10 minutes ago, Aiden said:

 

No. Generally speaking you have fewer headaches the less you mix and match parts in a 1911. A hammer and a sear should match each other as best they can. 

 

Then whatever safety you use, you match it to the sear you have. 

 

You can bag the STI ignition and safety and keep it for a backup/build/etc since it all works together. 

ok makes sense. Yeah I was thinking to just save the STI stuff. my only thing is im lefty  so NEED an ambi safety, so id run into that issue with any gun I put it in. I guess  id be better off selling to a righty.

[HOGRIDER]

16 minutes ago, TheChef1 said:

I'm not sure exactly what your asking/stating.

 

[TheChef1]

12 minutes ago, Aiden said:

 

No. Generally speaking you have fewer headaches the less you mix and match parts in a 1911. A hammer and a sear should match each other as best they can. 

 

Then whatever safety you use, you match it to the sear you have. 

 

You can bag the STI ignition and safety and keep it for a backup/build/etc since it all works together. 

Side question. do you think SVI is the way to go? EGW or Brazzos ive heard are good too. would it be better to go SVI since im running the safety?

[Aiden]

1 minute ago, TheChef1 said:

Side question. do you think SVI is the way to go? EGW or Brazzos ive heard are good too. would it be better to go SVI since im running the safety?

If you're going to be doing your own work and want it to be simple, go SVI. I've run EGW, EE (and Brazos), SVI, etc, and they all can be great. But there are minor differences between them all.

 

Hogrider linked a really good post that goes into nitty gritty of sear and hammer engagement. If you're feeling confident, then mixing and matching or using your preferred sear is a good option. 

 

But if you want to just drop parts in and have a good chance of it working great, all SVI is your best bet. 

[TheChef1]

1 minute ago, Aiden said:

If you're going to be doing your own work and want it to be simple, go SVI. I've run EGW, EE (and Brazos), SVI, etc, and they all can be great. But there are minor differences between them all.

 

Hogrider linked a really good post that goes into nitty gritty of sear and hammer engagement. If you're feeling confident, then mixing and matching or using your preferred sear is a good option. 

 

But if you want to just drop parts in and have a good chance of it working great, all SVI is your best bet. 

Thanks ill order the SVI kit. I appreciate the help. will I likely still have to fit the safety? I noticed the right side doesnt fit into the hole in the frame so ill defiantly need to work on that.

[Aiden]

I'd assume yes you need to fit the safety but as with all things 1911, "we'll see what fits when we get it". 

 

If you're working with a first gen Trojan you might be on hard mode because they had some very questionable specs. Can confirm TheSandMan49's first gen Trojan was terrible. 

[TheChef1]

51 minutes ago, Aiden said:

I'd assume yes you need to fit the safety but as with all things 1911, "we'll see what fits when we get it". 

 

If you're working with a first gen Trojan you might be on hard mode because they had some very questionable specs. Can confirm TheSandMan49's first gen Trojan was terrible. 

Ok so I think I may have an idea what’s going on. It looks like the SVI safety has a ton of material on it. Much more than the factory and my Wilson combat high ride from a different gun. It appears there’s so much material that when the hammer is cocked and I try to push the safety on it pushes the sear up dropping the hammer. That also would explain why it’s not working in safe because the leg of the safety stays behind the sear. Here’s a bunch of videos and photos hopefully it will help explain what I mean. 
 

this link shows the SVI safety pushing the sear up. https://imgur.com/a/8SypIPm
 

Pictures and videos of both safeties working and the parts on their own https://imgur.com/a/GUrDSD2

1 hour ago, HOGRIDER said:

 

See my comment above and let me know if you think I’m on to something. 

 

2 hours ago, TheSandMan491 said:

Can you post a picture of the existing safety (Prior to the SVI part), specifically the locking block, and the sear in question. 
 

I helped a friend work on his Trojan a while back (one of the first Gen ones with the horse head rollmark) and lots of things were strangely out of spec. For example, the distance from the bottom of frame to the bottom grip bushing was way longer than any of my guns (even my 2 second Gen Trojans), and so his techwell magwell wouldn’t fit.  
 

this Trojan also had a big Chunk of weld added onto its safety’s locking block to make it “reach” the sear to block it. 

See the comment above I posted some links with pics and videos. 

[Aiden]

Yep definitely a lot of material to the safety. Which means you'll be fitting it regardless of what ignition you use. 

 

But that means you'll be able to get a perfect fit to your setup. 

As an added bonus, your STI sear is not modified to be fit to a safety.

Edited April 26, 2023 by Aiden

[TheChef1]

1 hour ago, Aiden said:

Yep definitely a lot of material to the safety. Which means you'll be fitting it regardless of what ignition you use. 

 

But that means you'll be able to get a perfect fit to your setup. 

As an added bonus, your STI sear is not modified to be fit to a safety.

I went ahead and dropped it off at a gunsmith. My first time ever taking a gun to a smith but it seemed like I was going to be filing forever and I really didn’t wanna booger up a $150 safety. I appreciate all the responses. I’m glad I don’t need to change the ignition group. While an upgrade sounds nice the trigger is great so I really don’t care for the upgrade.