Pinning 2011 Hammer in Place

[m0dnar]

For dry fire purposes during the week I normally use a small rubber band to hold my hammer back by looping it around the beavertail and the hammer. Since this does hold the hammer a slight bit more than if it was just cocked, is there any long term wear/damage I need to be aware of if I just leave my gun like this all the time except for when I show up for a match?

[attakmint]

Springs wear through compression/decompression cycles.

 

But a better question is: why? There's not enough difference in trigger pull to matter between a dead trigger and a live one in dry fire.

[Racinready300ex]

I don't think it would be a issue.

 

But, I'd just leave it off. Cock the hammer before each rep so you get one good trigger pull at least. Then for subsequent trigger pulls just pull into a dead trigger. Remember to continue to pull with enough force to drop the hammer if it were cocked. 

 

[m0dnar]

With the hammer held down in place, the trigger pull is identical to live fire. I tried a few back to back holding the hammer in place with my finger vs letting the hammer fall, but not hit the firing pin and it feels the same. It's when you hear the hammer strike the firing pin that the brain tricks you into thinking it's a different pull because of the audible click.

[m0dnar]

2 hours ago, attakmint said:

Springs wear through compression/decompression cycles.

 

But a better question is: why? There's not enough difference in trigger pull to matter between a dead trigger and a live one in dry fire.

I was more concerned that holding the hammer to the beavertail puts the hammer in an unnatural position it will never experience during live fire. Not sure if the forced and constant overtravel messes something up internally as I'm not a gunsmith. 

 

As for why, I've managed to build in some subconscious drive of the gun doing the 1 real pull, multiple dead pulls in dry fire. I've held the gun with both hands and had a very experienced shooting pull the trigger twice for me and there's enough of a subconscious drive somewhere that pushes the second shot low. 

 

Trying to get more dryfire in with 100% identical pulls to my live trigger to now remove this motion.

[Racinready300ex]

20 minutes ago, m0dnar said:

With the hammer held down in place, the trigger pull is identical to live fire. I tried a few back to back holding the hammer in place with my finger vs letting the hammer fall, but not hit the firing pin and it feels the same. It's when you hear the hammer strike the firing pin that the brain tricks you into thinking it's a different pull because of the audible click.

 

When you tie down the hammer doesn't it pull the hammer off of the sear? It can't feel the same if the sear isn't releasing the hammer. If you need it to be 100% get a cool fire system for your gun.

 

If you're driving the gun down on the second shot. Let's say it's because of the dryfire. Do you see the dip in dryfire? If you do, fix it. Stop dipping the gun. If you don't see it, why don't you? You should, because if dryfire is causing it then it has to be happening in dry fire too right? And if it's happening in dryfire it should be vary easy to spot. 

 

I honestly don't think strapping down the hammer is the solution to your problem. It's probably not even a trigger control problem. It's more likely a recoil management thing and not something you're really going to fix in dryfire. 

 

 

[MuayThaiJJ]

You're just compressing the hammer spring and possibly rubbing on the sear, that is the only thing that is wearing away. Won't matter much, I think. But I think feeling the wall break is important, I wouldn't practice like this (just me)

[Guy Neill]

For me, one of the goals in dry fire is to drop the hammer without disturbing the sight picture. Capturing the hammer would not allow that.

 

Note that the firing pin spring wll take a beating and should be replaced frequently.

 

Also, inspect the firing pin stop as it may crack.