m0dnar

We're not discussing Virginia Count. Fixed Time has its own definition in the rulebook.

This is exactly what tripped me up and had me show up with 2 different stage plans. Fortunately for everyone involved, it was 94F, 70% humidity, and I wasn't shooting all that great leading up to that stage. I asked for clarification during the stage brief and when the CRO shut it down, I didn't care enough at that point to shoot it the way that would've gotten the extra hits penalty and then waste more time in the heat escalating to the MD. I do think the WSB was written poorly and contradicts the definition of a fixed time stage. Your own links contradict your point. The WSB did not state only 2 rounds per target. It only stated best 2 hits are scored. That could be out of 2 hits, that could be out of 14 hits. This exact verbiage was missing from the WSB at my match. That's the verbiage needed to assign extra hits penalties.

Thanks for the good catch. Saved me from some potential penalties. But 2 of the middle targets are tuxedos so if I don't call 2 alphas on both of those, I may as well make it up and play it safe instead of trying to rush to the last 2 targets and not even make it. Let's just say the par time on this one is pretty aggressive. I could probably get it with PCC.

Let's say there's a fixed time stage with 7 targets available. The WSB only says 7 targets, 14 rounds, best 2/target. No mention of "engage T1 with 2 rounds, T2 with rounds, etc." Could I theoretically decide to engage only 5 targets, but to guarantee 2 alphas on each use the extra 4 rounds from choosing not to engage the last two targets on the 5 I do plan on engaging? I don't believe any penalties should be applied because FTSA does not apply to Fixed Time and all the M are NPM. The only two penalties that I think could apply are either Extra Shots or Extra Hits. But the 9.4.5.1. (extra shots) specifically call out "shots fired in excess of the number specified in a component string or stage". I don't plan on shooting more than the 14 rounds specified and this particular WSB doesn't specify strings or anything. Then in 9.4.5.2 for extra hits it says "hits on the scoring area of scoring cardboard targets in excess of the total number specified in the stage". Per the WSB, it only says best 2/target will be scored. It doesn't say in writing anywhere that I can find that you're only supposed to fire 2 shots per target. What does the group think?

I was more concerned that holding the hammer to the beavertail puts the hammer in an unnatural position it will never experience during live fire. Not sure if the forced and constant overtravel messes something up internally as I'm not a gunsmith. As for why, I've managed to build in some subconscious drive of the gun doing the 1 real pull, multiple dead pulls in dry fire. I've held the gun with both hands and had a very experienced shooting pull the trigger twice for me and there's enough of a subconscious drive somewhere that pushes the second shot low. Trying to get more dryfire in with 100% identical pulls to my live trigger to now remove this motion.

With the hammer held down in place, the trigger pull is identical to live fire. I tried a few back to back holding the hammer in place with my finger vs letting the hammer fall, but not hit the firing pin and it feels the same. It's when you hear the hammer strike the firing pin that the brain tricks you into thinking it's a different pull because of the audible click.

For dry fire purposes during the week I normally use a small rubber band to hold my hammer back by looping it around the beavertail and the hammer. Since this does hold the hammer a slight bit more than if it was just cocked, is there any long term wear/damage I need to be aware of if I just leave my gun like this all the time except for when I show up for a match?

Awesome, looks like 10.5.5.1 covers my use case. Thanks for helping clarify!

So I get for a seated start there's no getting around muzzling your leg without shifting the whole belt, but I'm muzzling my leg from a normal standing start. Would that potentially be DQ territory as there would be that split second when the gun leaves the holster, but it's still muzzling my leg?

So I'm using a race holster for the first time and I'm not sure if this is supposed to happen or if I'm doing something wrong. I'm using a DAA Flex and whenever the gun is holstered and I'm in my lowered center of gravity start position, the muzzle is pointing directly at the outside edge of my leg. Now I've done some dry fire with it and tried to rush how quickly I remove the safety and at my current skill level I cannot physically get to the safety faster than the muzzle becomes level with the ground, but under time pressure I'd still be worried I somehow knock the safety off as I establish my grip. I've tried to watch as many YouTube reviews of the holster to see if others have the problem, but honestly there's not a whole lot of footage out there. There's a few good clips of Max Michel, but he uses an upright starting position and if I stand like that, I have no issues. I can try and get some pictures later if people think it'll be helpful to help diagnose.

@kk4364, I finally managed to get it out and you weren't kidding about the parts being tight. I was mostly worried that maybe their "Optifit" meant it went on differently. Even after removing EVERYTHING except the trigger, I still had to beat my grip and frame apart with a 2'x4'. @TheSandMan491, this video came in clutch. I had to beat the crap outta the front end with a nylon hammer to get enough of a gap for me to slip a polymer cleaning pick under the middle part of the safety. Then more banging and it finally released. Had to beat it back into the gun too with how tight they made the ambi safety.

I have a 2021 full built SVI that I'm trying to do a detail strip for cleaning. I'm almost certain I have their proprietary Optifit thumb safety and it doesn't seem to want to pop out like the other safeties on the YouTube videos. Anyone know any tricks or do I keep prying on it and smacking the front end with a nylon hammer?

I'll give this a shot. Thanks!

I'm here to shoot guns. I have no interest in learning gunsmithing. I do a field strip, solvent bath, and re-lubing as normal maintenance. Anything more than that and I have no problems sending it out to an actual professional. If you like to tinker, that's great for you. I enjoy tinkering with LS motors, but I seriously could not care less about how my 2011 works. That's why I paid someone to build it for me and I didn't go read 20 books, watch 500 hours of YouTube videos, and build it myself from parts. I also keep a spare for competitions so if I needed to send one out, I still have my backup. But if a rubber band allows me to do a 5 minute spring change myself, that's worth it. If a rubber band won't, I have no issues shipping it out and having someone else do it. I'd rather spend my time doing something else.

Now I'm confused. Isn't the hammer spring the one that's in the mainspring housing? I'm trying to figure out if there's a way to remove my MSH without having to mess with sear spring and hammer strut alignment if my gun has a factory pinned grip safety.

So to be safe use the rubber band trick anyway to keep the grip safety pinned so I don't need to mess with aligning things?

If my gun has a pinned grip safety from the factory, does that mean it should be super easy to swap out the hammer spring? I've done the job on a regular 1911 years ago and did the rubber band method to hold the sear spring in place so I didn't have to re-align everything, but since my current grip safety is pinned, does that mean I just need to drop the mainspring housing, do the spring swap, and then re-seat the MSH? Nothing to align?

This is completely against the spirit of the USPSA rulebook, but... it technically meets the technical descriptions in the rulebook. What's stopping me from welding an AR pistol buffer tube to the back of my mainspring housing and then slapping a stabilizing brace on it? Then installing a 16" barrel and wrapping a suppressor cover over the barrel so I can c-clamp the barrel directly. The rulebook specifically states I'm not allowed to have a shoulder stock, but legally and linguistically speaking, a pistol brace is a stabilizing brace meant for disabled shooters and per ATF is not a stock. The rulebook does not prohibit shouldering the weapon system, just disallows an actual shoulder stock. In this case I would be shouldering a stabilizing brace which is not prohibited by any ruleset. I mean if the carry optic guys are going to embed a $0.50 led light inside a brass weight to play games with the rulebook, I don't see how this is any different.

Best way to avoid a counterfeit used Trijicon is to get the serial number and call it into Trijicon and ask for the specs for that serial number. If it doesn't match what the seller is saying, it's a fake. Most of the fakes use 3-5 real serial numbers, but it's unlikely they will match the actual specs of the optic itself. It's easier for RMRs because there are like 300 variations of them, but even the SRO has like 3 or so different dot sizes and the serial number should correspond to a single size.

I was honestly going to just do a field strip and dunk the entire frame in. I don't trust myself to detail strip a 2011 yet. I still have a .22LR 1911 that I meant to upgrade with EGW parts sitting in multiple zip lock bags because I can't put it back together.

I like running 2-gun competitions suppressed and I ran across this holster, but I've never used a race style holster before. Would this offer enough retention for something like the Tactical Games where you're running, climbing ropes, crawling, climbing ladders, etc? I don't mind my slide getting beat to crap, but I do need the gun to not fall out if I bump into something.

This is brilliant and at under $500 not a bad way to get into the ultrasonic game. Seems like I would only need to clean my slide by hand since I wouldn't want to take off my optic and re-zero every time, but that's only like 10 minutes of hand cleaning vs 45 for the whole gun.

Any concerns with using an ultrasonic cleaner for a 2011? How much of the gun can I put into the cleaner? Any recommendations on a brand?

I'm still leaning towards just removing the overhang from the ejector, especially since I have a factory spare showing up tomorrow. I've gotta figure that the ejector is perfectly fit since it's a SVI and it even got sent back to them so it's unlikely a build issue. I'm going to also pick up some non-slide lock mags, but I do use the gun for 2-gun competitions and other training that benefits from slide lock reloads so I want to figure out something that works.

Visually it looks fine, but it's contacting the slide when I reassemble so something is slightly out of spec. The most common cause is overinsertion of the magazine so it would likely look bent upwards, but I can't seem to prove that my 126mm mags overinsert at all.