Glock Trigger Work...trigger Reset

[rwmagnus]

Okay I've been snapping in on the Glock stuff recently. Never thought I'd see the day but I'm a Glock owner. I say that because I've been playing in the revolver world for the past two years and prior to that I was a 1911 guy. I missed the whole Glock revolution during my sabbatical. Having shot only 3 or 4 Glocks I took the plunge. Guess I'm in the minority to say I like the Glock trigger! True any trigger can be cleaned up which brings me to this post.

I have a Ralph Sotelo trigger kit on the way for a G35, but wanted to know what options there are for cleaning up the trigger reset. I'd be interested in a faster reset. I'm still getting a handle on how the internals interact with each other but it doesn't look too complicated, just a bit different. I may break down and buy a DVD to shorten the learning curve if there is a good one out there.

So what can be done to get a quicker reset?

Edited November 30, 2005 by rwmagnus

[atmar]

instead of buying the dvd just visit this site:

http://www.sniperworld.com/glock/

with regards to reset, it is dictated by the striker spring....i think, but if you go for the stronger striker spring that will harden your trigger pull, so i guess you just have to look for the right balance for your taste there

[Kimberkid]

You may want to try a couple triggers that have had the reset played with. IMHO it is not worth the hassle/risk to modify it. It is possible to shorten the reset and have it still work 100%, but after having shot several with shortened resets I dont personally think it is worth it. Since you have Ralph's trigger, I would highly recommend you call him and get his thoughts on the issue.

[BR]

I had the same concern, and my first email was to Ralph himself. He responded immediately, and I will try to summarize what he said. Email Ralph and he'll give you the exact scoop.

First, if you have a reduced power striker spring, replace that with a heavier or stock striker spring.

Second, if you are running a lighter weight recoil spring, bump up the weight or go with stock.

Third, you can replace the heavier trigger-return [?] spring with the stock spring.

I don't know if I got it exactly right, so check with Ralph. I replaced the light striker spring with the original and think that in itself improved the reset. Trigger is a litter heavier, but feels cleaner.

I don't really understand "how" the glock trigger resets, but Ralph says that it is a combination of several components working in unison. Anyone have an idea?

Cheers,

-brian reynolds

[atmar]

i think the glock trigger resets when the striker cruciform pushes the trigger bar cruciform back, that why if you want a cleaner/faster reset you should go with the heavier striker springs.

[eric nielsen]

The glock trigger is reset by the recoil spring, which pushes on the vertical tab near the front of the trigger bow. That's why the trigger won't reset when the slide locks back on the final shot out of a magazine. The striker spring is involved but in a minor way.

The way to speed up the reset is to reduce friction. You could spend a week polishing all the surfaces involved, the the $.25 Trigger Job will get you most of the way there.

Edited December 1, 2005 by eric nielsen

[rwmagnus]

The glock trigger is reset by the recoil spring, which pushes on the vertical tab near the front of the trigger bow. That's why the trigger won't reset when the slide locks back on the final shot out of a magazine. The striker spring is involved but in a minor way.

The way to speed up the reset is to reduce friction. You could spend a week polishing all the surfaces involved, the the $.25 Trigger Job will get you most of the way there.

Sounds like you know this from expierence. Yes I'll take the week and polish everthing up plus I'm plannig to install the RS trigger but with so many running a 15lb spring in a G35 I just have to try that as well.

With the recoil spring controlling the trigger reset what spring are you running?

[cpty1]

When I shot Glocks, I used a 13 pound ISMI recoil spring exclusively. I polished everything that moved or made contact with another part, added a reduced power firing pin spring, and shot that way for a long time. I later tinkered around with lightened steel strikers, titanium plungers, moving the hole up on the trigger bar, and mariner cups, but always kept the firing pin plunger safety spring stock because I liked a strong reset. The polishing gives the most bang for the buck (or lack thereof in this case). The other parts improve the action and break but may not be worth the costs for some.

[Azone41]

I just got my first Glock (factory rebuilt 22). I got the RS trigger and put it in and I am happy with it. I don't shoot production but thought I need a gun that I could if I wanted to. I always thought Glocks were ugly so I never bought one. I have always recommended them to new shooters starting out in USPSA because they work great out of the box. I really like the one I just got and for 335 bucks it was a pretty good deal and Mags are dirt cheap.

[open17]

The glock trigger is reset by the recoil spring, which pushes on the vertical tab near the front of the trigger bow. That's why the trigger won't reset when the slide locks back on the final shot out of a magazine. The striker spring is involved but in a minor way.

The way to speed up the reset is to reduce friction. You could spend a week polishing all the surfaces involved, the the $.25 Trigger Job will get you most of the way there.

Ummmm, If we are talking about the same "vertical tab near the front of the trigger bow",

it has absolutely nothing to do with the trigger reset. All it does is depress the striker

safety plunger at the appropriate time. Look up through the mag well while cycling the pistol and you will see. The 3 parts most directly involved in the trigger reset are

the trigger bar/cruciform, the striker, and the connector. The reason the trigger doesn't reset on a locked back slide is that the striker hook, which is part on the slide, doesn't

come forward to pick up the rear of the cruciform, and push it and the trigger forward so

the birdshead on the trigger bar re-establish it's relationship with the connector tab.

[atmar]

i agree.

Edited December 4, 2005 by atmar

[rwmagnus]

....and I thought the internals didn't look too complicated ....striker hook, cruciform, birdshead...oh my.

[chp5]

Maybe I don’t understand the original question but, IMO, polishing the internals or changing springs has nothing to do with the LENGTH of the trigger reset. They may contribute to a smoother or stronger reset, but they don’t change the length.

The trigger resets after firing when the nose of the trigger bar slips back down under the connector – then the trigger is ready to fire again. The distance the trigger must travel forward in order to reset is the relevant distance.

Two thing affect that distance: (1) the type of connector, and (2) over-travel.

Connectors. The angle of the 3.5# connector is such that it requires the trigger to travel further forward than the 5# connector. This difference is attributable to the respective angles of the two different connectors – the same angle that give them differing pull weights. All things being equal, the 5# connector yields a shorter reset.

Over-travel. The Glock trigger has some over-travel. If you shorten that over-travel, then you shorten the distance the trigger must move in order to reset. You can shorten the over-travel in several ways. One method is to use a over-travel stop of some kind. The easiest method is to buy a prepped housing from Charlie Vanek. You can also use the Ghost Rocket connector that has a over-travel stop built in. You’ll need to custom fit the Ghost Rocket connector to your Glock, but it’s not hard.

The shape of the trigger bar nose can also affect the reset, but I don’t muck around with that angle. You can get the Glock rockin’ doubles and more when mucking with that angle. Don’t ask me how I know . . .