223 case size problems with heads stamped + in a 0

[HappyCamper]

Reloading .223 and frequently I have cases that will not chamber.  I thought it was a shoulder issue, and adjusted the sizer until my fingers blistered.  But now I think that some brass just won't work.  

 

If I put brass, unsized or sized, into the chamber check base first, most brass goes in easily and about halfway.  But some brass, mostly headstamped with a + inside a O and LC and what looks like a date (96, 00, 12,06) it won't go in backwards and no amount of sizing will make it chamber.  Also, a fair amount of Federal brass FC also is pretty tight, including factory new.

 

I tried to chamber in both a .223 and a Wylde with same results.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Thanks

[Ben53]

You probably need small base dies.  There's a slight taper to the .223 (5.56) cases so they're not going to go very far into the case gauge backwards.  The "+" in a circle is a sign for NATO spec.

[RePete]

What Ben53 said.

 

The brass is more than likely machine gun fired.

[HappyCamper]

I have no personal experience with the small base dies so I don't know this for certain, but, if they operate like full length dies, I don't think they would be able to size the case close enough to the base to work.  Now that you mention this, that gives me the idea that a roll sizer may be what is needed. 

 

Most of my brass is scavenged so I don't know it's history, and, maybe I hit a pile of identical brass that was all full auto fired.  But, so far, the only brass I have had problems with all have the same headstamp.  That's why I was wondering if there is something up with that kind of brass. Kinda like that 9mm brass with the stepped case wall thickness or 45acp with small primer pockets, which both have made my reloading life more difficult than it needs to be. 

 

Thanks for the replies. 

[RePete]

1 hour ago, HappyCamper said:

I have no personal experience with the small base dies so I don't know this for certain, but, if they operate like full length dies, I don't think they would be able to size the case close enough to the base to work.  Now that you mention this, that gives me the idea that a roll sizer may be what is needed. 

 

Most of my brass is scavenged so I don't know it's history, and, maybe I hit a pile of identical brass that was all full auto fired.  But, so far, the only brass I have had problems with all have the same headstamp.  That's why I was wondering if there is something up with that kind of brass. Kinda like that 9mm brass with the stepped case wall thickness or 45acp with small primer pockets, which both have made my reloading life more difficult than it needs to be. 

 

Thanks for the replies. 

SB dies are smaller in diameter and do size further down the brass.  I have resized machine gun brass without issue other than they are a bit harder to pull the lever down, just use a bit more lube on the body - and eat more Wheaties!

 

As for stepped brass and SP 45ACP, no issues other than making sure that you sort out the 45.

[HappyCamper]

Yeah, I hear you on the sorting of brass, but, I swear I sort that stuff until my eyes cross and yet, here comes the small primer pocket anyway.  Ugh. 

 

Also, I am going to steal your latin quote. 

[Farmer]

Mil brass is also thicker and a bit tougher so somewhat harder to resize. Once you’ve gotten them all done it should be easier on the next go round. Make sure your die is set so the press cam’s over fairly firmly too. 

[HappyCamper]

I think I'll buy a small base die and put it on my single stage just to deal with these cases, instead of tossing them out.  Everything else works great going through my brand new Dillon 1100 (just to brag a little).

[RePete]

Just use a little more lube than normal, not on the neck though.

[XL6504ME]

I used to have brass that would do that until I adjusted my sizing die to cam over, that tip was from another member here thank you!!  now I have no chambering issues, each round goes plop in the case gauge and the jam ups disappeared.   

[HappyCamper]

I can try setting the sizer lower, but, the instructions say that carbide is brittle and can break if it hits the ram.  I think I'll buy a small base and experiment on my single stage.

 

But, also, I noticed that some cases I've run into actually have a base/rim that is oversized.  As a test, I took a little off on my grindwheel and then it chambered.  Not sure what's up with that. 

[Farmer]

Don’t think I’ve ever seen a carbide sizer die for bottle neck cartridges. Something new?? You should super size them on your single stage first anyway. It has less flex than the progressive and would be less stress on it also. 

[RePete]

4 hours ago, Farmer said:

Don’t think I’ve ever seen a carbide sizer die for bottle neck cartridges. Something new?? 

Nothing new, Dillon Precision make them for .223 and .308 but you still MUST lube the cases.

[HappyCamper]

Yes, always lube carbide dies, no matter what the advertising says.  Ask me how I know. 

[RePete]

Dillon has always stated that lube is required.

 

From their web site.

 

For high volume users, such as commercial reloaders, law enforcement agencies, and high power or service rifle competitors, we also offer .223 and .308 die sets with a full-length carbide sizing die. Lubrication is still required, but the increased scratch resistance and die longevity of carbide are of great benefit to these groups of users.

[Farmer]

5 hours ago, RePete said:

Nothing new, Dillon Precision make them for .223 and .308 but you still MUST lube the cases.

Learn something new everyday. I take it that the carbide portion is only a ring at the bottom to size the base of the case and the rest is a standard steel die? From the pictures I found that’s what it looked like unless there’s a ring for the neck too.