New reloader - questions on a case feeder window cuff and plate clutch adjustment

[kmcdonou]

I am setting up my first reloading press--Dillon XL750--and had a question on how to adjust the widow cuff on the case feeder. According to the instructions "The Cuff can be adjusted by loosening the black knurled nut, it is incorporates a 3/16” hex. Slide the Cuff into position, making sure that the small leg in locked into the adjustment notch for the desired opening size, and retighten the nut to no more than 10 to 12 inch-pounds to lock it into position." 

 

The problem is the cuff wants to scrape off the top of the ridges between the notches when I move it, regardless of how loose the nut is. Here is a pict that shows what I mean: Window cuff.  I had to eventually pinch the top metal tab of the cuff on the inside of the bowl, allowing it to lift slightly, and then use a flat head screw driver to lift the second tab, and then awkwardly try to move the cuff.   I want to see if there is an easier way of doing this so I don't scrape all the ridges off. I probably won't have to move the cuff very often, but I want to do it correctly.

 

Also, the manual speaks about the adjusting the clutch on the case feeder plate so that it moves freely when the bowl is half full of cases, but not not so tight so that if there is a blockage the clutch fails to slip, thereby straining the motor.  I don't have any brass yet to put into the case feeder, but I recorded a video with me using my finger to block the movement of the plate. Does this video show the clutch slipping as it should or is the motor bogging down instead? I am just trying to figure out what the slippage looks like so I can adjust it appropriately in the future. Also, to get me started, is there a general torque value in inch pounds that I can set to start when loading 10mm cases? Note the video shows the Entirely Crimson plate nob, so it appears different from the stock plate. 

 

Case feeder under strain

 

Edited July 10, 2021 by kmcdonou

[HesedTech]

I have had two dilllon case feeders, one got sold with my 650, and just to let you know they are not perfect. First, at least in the older models, the motor will lose power fairly quickly and not support very many cases. No matter how you adjust the “cuff” you will get jams from cases which did not fall.  There is also the “water fall” jam where cases get jammed up prior to the  stop switch and they begin to spill out.

 

The only real fix is to replace the motor drive with a stronger unit. Immortobot now sells a replacement motor and sensors to reverse the drive when jammed and prevent the waterfall.  
 

As far as the clutch goes, there isn’t a setting which universally works. Set it to drive with out slipping the number of cases you fill the bowl to. If the drive jams just turn it off and clear it. Yes you have to pay attention. 

[N7VY]

On the cuff window, I load 9mm and .223 and they both use the same window so I don’t have to change anything really. I don’t know for the others but I don’t think you will be changing this out very often. 

[kmcdonou]

Yes, I did see by reviewing the chart in the back of the case feeder manual that many of the cartridges are set to the third notch.  Still, if you had to move it back and forth, it seems it will not take long to rub the ridges off the ridges between the slots unless there is a technique to do this better than the one I used. 

Edited July 10, 2021 by kmcdonou

[HesedTech]

24 minutes ago, kmcdonou said:

Yes, I did see by reviewing the chart in the back of the case feeder manual that many of the cartridges are set to the third notch.

To second the other poster, I load 9mm, 40sw, 45 acp and 223 with mine and the cuff has ended up the same for all.  There is no way to prevent wear if you have to adjust it a lot. Good news, it doesn’t have to be adjusted very often. 

Edited July 10, 2021 by HesedTech

[Youngeyes]

I have a 650 and load mostly 9mm, 45acp and 38spl. I keep the speed slow and I don't have any problems. I have never adjusted the cuff. Perhaps I might need to if I load rifle. Your clutch is working fine. If the motor stopped, the center hub would have stopped as well. Any clutch puts pressure on a motor and slows it down. The idea is to not burn out the motor because it's jammed. If it slipped so much that it didn't slow the motor, the case feeder wouldn't work. 

[AHI]

To move the window cuff loosen the screw /bolt more. before you move it.   fYI i have never moved any on my machines .

clutch appears to be adjusted correctly and do not see a issue. it is working correctly.

[kmcdonou]

Thanks for all the replies.  That was very helpful. Good to know my clutch is working well. As for the cuff, I loosened it enough where the screw came totally undone, it still was very hard to move without scraping the ridges. That said, I don't see moving at all in the near future, and probably very little in the distant future.

 

Getting back to the clutch, for an initial starting tension on the clutch screws, would you go up to the point that the clutch doesn't move when I put in my finger to block it while running, and then back it off a quarter turn for each screw?  Or, would you just wait until you fill it half full of cases and make the adjustments then?

 

 

[Youngeyes]

 If you had to start from scratch, tighten the screws until a medium amount of finger pressure on the plate causes the clutch to slip. You can check it with a half full feeder of cases but it should be fine. Remember that these case feeders were not designed to run with the hopper completely full.