kmcdonou

I found my problem. The camming pin has play in it when the nut is off, Dillon or aftermarket. I moved the pin over so it wouldn't rub, and retightened the nut. Problem solved.

Here is a picture that shows rubbing:

New to XL750 and reloading in general. Just started assembling and watching the movement of the press. I note that the camming pin (and I used an after market bearing model from Snowshooze on Ebay) is ever so slightly brushing against the spent primer bracket. I can tell by the vibration transmitted through the the bracket when holding it and operating the press. Is that normal? I am not sure how I can move the bracket or the camming pin over. Any thoughts?

Thanks for all the replies. That was very helpful. Good to know my clutch is working well. As for the cuff, I loosened it enough where the screw came totally undone, it still was very hard to move without scraping the ridges. That said, I don't see moving at all in the near future, and probably very little in the distant future. Getting back to the clutch, for an initial starting tension on the clutch screws, would you go up to the point that the clutch doesn't move when I put in my finger to block it while running, and then back it off a quarter turn for each screw? Or, would you just wait until you fill it half full of cases and make the adjustments then?

Yes, I did see by reviewing the chart in the back of the case feeder manual that many of the cartridges are set to the third notch. Still, if you had to move it back and forth, it seems it will not take long to rub the ridges off the ridges between the slots unless there is a technique to do this better than the one I used.

I am setting up my first reloading press--Dillon XL750--and had a question on how to adjust the widow cuff on the case feeder. According to the instructions "The Cuff can be adjusted by loosening the black knurled nut, it is incorporates a 3/16” hex. Slide the Cuff into position, making sure that the small leg in locked into the adjustment notch for the desired opening size, and retighten the nut to no more than 10 to 12 inch-pounds to lock it into position." The problem is the cuff wants to scrape off the top of the ridges between the notches when I move it, regardless of how loose the nut is. Here is a pict that shows what I mean: Window cuff. I had to eventually pinch the top metal tab of the cuff on the inside of the bowl, allowing it to lift slightly, and then use a flat head screw driver to lift the second tab, and then awkwardly try to move the cuff. I want to see if there is an easier way of doing this so I don't scrape all the ridges off. I probably won't have to move the cuff very often, but I want to do it correctly. Also, the manual speaks about the adjusting the clutch on the case feeder plate so that it moves freely when the bowl is half full of cases, but not not so tight so that if there is a blockage the clutch fails to slip, thereby straining the motor. I don't have any brass yet to put into the case feeder, but I recorded a video with me using my finger to block the movement of the plate. Does this video show the clutch slipping as it should or is the motor bogging down instead? I am just trying to figure out what the slippage looks like so I can adjust it appropriately in the future. Also, to get me started, is there a general torque value in inch pounds that I can set to start when loading 10mm cases? Note the video shows the Entirely Crimson plate nob, so it appears different from the stock plate. Case feeder under strain

I wanted to adjust the case feeder window cuff and according to the instructions "The Cuff can be adjusted by loosening the black knurled nut, it is incorporates a 3/16” hex. Slide the Cuff into position, making sure that the small leg in locked into the adjustment notch for the desired opening size, and retighten the nut to no more than 10 to 12 inch-pounds to lock it into position." However when I loosened the nut all the way off, the cuff does not move easily without scraping the edge off of the ridges separating the adjustment notches. This picture shows what I mean. I struggled by pushing on the back of the metal cuff, inside the case bowl, to lift up the first tab of the cuff, while using a flat blade screwdriver to pry up the second tab, and then slid the cuff over. It wasn't easy to do without scraping the ridges as mentioned. Is there a better way of doing this? Not that I have to do it very often, but I want to know how to do it without ruining the notches on the case bowl. Image of window cuff Secondly, I want to adjust the case feeder clutch. Although I don't have cartridges yet, I want to see what slippage looks like. I recorded a video that shows me pushing in my finger while the plate feeder is moving. Is the resulting action show the plate slipping as it should or is the motor bogging down? I am trying to get a feel for what slippage looks like. I adjusted the two screws fairly loosely. Is there a torque per inch pounds I can start with to set the tension of the screws? Note I added an Entirely Crimson plate nob so it the plate will look slightly different than the stock plate. Video of plate under pressure

Awesome! Good to know. Thanks.

ltdmstr, Yes, I saw your wonderful design. I not a welder, though, so I will have to find someone to make it for me. How has the capability of adjusting the angle of the MBF been beneficial for you? As OptimiStick mentioned he had a particular bullet issue that adjusting the angle could have solved. Just curious as to the circumstances you needed the angle adjusted. It might determinate if I go your route or just buy the fixed plastic solution. OptimiStick, Sorry I misread your earlier post about Rick's plastic piece being adjustable. Thanks for the pict. Rick's mount does look similar to the the Range Panda. Slight differences, but practically the same.

For Rick's version is there an advantage for it being adjustable? What angle is the MBF set at when attached to the case feeder as originally designed? Also what is Rick's version made out of?

That's good to know. What is Rick's mount made of?

Long time lurker, first time poster. Been doing a lot of reading on this and other forums/sites on reloading, as I am gearing up to do so for the first time. I read about a few people creating their own make-shift mounting system for Mr. Bullet Feeder, to mount the unit separate from the case feeder. I contacted Dan at Inline Fabrication about making something like this and he said he will consider it, but for the meantime pointed me to a solution by Range Panda: https://rangepanda.com/collections/misc-products/products/mr-bullet-feeder-pipe-mount. I did some searches and surprisingly I haven't seen anyone talk about this product, which surprises me. I have read about people wanting to mount their MBF independent of the case holder to fix bullet flip issues, and Rick's solution (inventor of MBF) I heard only works with the older, hockey puck style mount. I don't know enough details about the older and newer styles of MBF, but this product seems to fit either the round style or square style versions of MBF. Just curious if anyone has used this mount. It looks like it is 3-d printed and I am not sure of the strength of the plastic used in those applications. I'd appreciate any feedback.