Ignition components for 1911 .22lr

[JNW]

I have a Caspian frame with a Nelson conversion on it as my go to .22 pistol.  The hammer and sear need to be replaced after only 3,000 rounds - apparently not set up properly. I want a 2 - 2.5 pound trigger pull that lasts.  It needs at least a new hammer and sear and I'm willing to replace whatever parts I need to.  What parts should I get?  I am not set up to cut hammer hooks and such - I can replace parts and that's about it.  If need be who should I send it to for this work?  I live in Minnesota and as far as I know there are no true 1911 gurus here.

Thanks,

Jeff

[38super]

Generally, 22lr conversions don't like 17lb main springs for consistent ignition.  No sure why you need parts after 3K rds.  What is the problem, ignition, hammer follow?

[JNW]

I have occasional hammer follow, its doubled several times and when I lower the hammer slowly I can feel a hitch at around the half cock notch.  Just started doing this and I did a detail strip and clean and that did not help.

Jeff

[zzt]

Sounds like you are using high speed ammo with the wrong recoil spring.  Since only a portion of the slide moves, recoil action is violent.  It will beat your hammer to death in short order, especially if the hammer is a MIM part.

 

It has been my experience that EGW ignition parts mate up perfectly, IF your holes are where the are supposed to be.  Extreme Engineering parts are also good, but I've had to address hammer hook issues.  Your main issue will be the thumb safety.

 

Aside from nose length, there is no standard for sears.  So if you pick the wrong one your safety may not work, or you have to refit the TS.  If your sear was an EGW, or another with very similar profile, you are good to go with EGW parts.  If you put an EE sear in you will have to remove material from the TS, because the EE sear has a fatter profile on the rear of the sear.  Alternately, you can use a Dremel to remove material from the rear of the sear so you don't have to modify your TS.  Same with Harrision Custom, the fattest sear I've used.

 

If you use a 'thinner' profile sear than that in the gun, you'll have to have the TS welded up so there is material available for a refit.  Alternately you can peen the end of the shaft on the TS to bulk it up, and then refit.

 

Once you get it fixed, stop using HS ammo.  Nelson does not sell a heavy enough recoil spring to allow continuous use of HS.  Marvel Precision sells 9 and 10 lb. recoil springs.  They may be strong enough depending on the ammo you want to use.  I have a Marvel Unit One, which is what the Nelson unit is based on.  Having experienced the damage HS ammo does to the internals, I only use Standard velocity ammo in it.  That's what I did for many thousands of rounds.  I bought a bunch of Eley Force (45 gr @ 1250 fps) ammo at a good price.  With a 8 lb. recoil spring my hammer was battered to death in only 500 rounds, and the gun doubled or tripled.  I fixed the gun and sold the rest of that ammo.

[JNW]

The only ammo this gun ever gets is CCI SV or SK Standard +.

Jeff

[zzt]

6 hours ago, JNW said:

The only ammo this gun ever gets is CCI SV or SK Standard +.

Jeff

 

Then there were junk parts installed.  Geez!  Even the MIM hammer on my Sig Tacops 1911 45 lasted 40,000 rounds before it had to be replaced.  I'll also say you should up your recoil spring after you replace the parts.

[GBertolet]

Get a Cammer Hammer kit. Hammer, sear, disco, and springs, for about $150. This hammer is designed to cock with less effort, due to it's design. Perfect for low slide velocity 1911's, such as 1911 CF bullseye guns and 22 RF conversions. If you are going to buy a new ignition set, consider this.  https://www.cammertechnologies.com/

[38super]

Hammer half cock has been hitting the sear face.  Back out the trigger over travel screw until sear clears hammer.  Once there is clearance, give a 1/4-1/2 turn more.  There is one more test.  Hold the trigger back and ensure slide cycles smoothly.  If there is a hitch or the slide is held back, the problem is your disconnector is binding.   Disconnector i binding is caused by trigger bow over travel.  Inspect your parts for peening, at the least a new sear.

 

Wish you'd mention that tick before.

[38super]

May be possible to salvage the sear if you have a sear jig and stones.  I suspect you are new to 1911's.  So was I at one time, and I'm still learning.  If you want to learn how to do a trigger job, use GI parts from SARCO or similar sources.  Expect to trash some parts, that's the idea.  Besides the sear jig and stones, a jeweler's loupe is handy.

Today's hammer and sears are a drop in compared to 20 years ago.  Most I do is de arc the 3 finger spring and tweak for trigger pull and a safe hammer. (sear finger)..  Once you have a grasp of the operation, experiment.  Any time you do a trigger job, rack the slide on an empty gun 20 times.  If the hammer follows or drops to half cock, repeat test but hold the trigger forward.  If it doesn't follow, disconnector finger tension is too low or the trigger itself is too heavy.  

 

Don't be afraid to ask knowledgeable people on your squad, they are usually willing to share.

[JNW]

Update,

I fiddled with this gun as much as I could.  I am now incredibly proficient at completely disassembling a 1911.  And putting it back together.  Wasn't the over travel screw.  Couldn't find anywhere that the grip safety or trigger bow was touching inappropriately.  As there is no one where I live that is an actual 1911 pistol smith I was left with either sending it out (which would have been expensive and taken a loooong time to get back) or replace the ignition set.  It wasn't about the money, more about the time.  I bought a set from KC Crawford and now have a wonderful 2.5 pound trigger with a little roll, which I like very much.  Gun is reliable, safe and shoots wonderfully.  Thanks for everyone's help!

Jeff

[kdawg]

Overtravel shouldn't matter too much with respect to your symptoms. Sure sounds like too much pre-travel. 

Here is an often referenced video: